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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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A body could stay unfound for many years in parts of that gully. Nobody goes in parts of it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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A body could stay unfound for many years in parts of that gully. Nobody goes in parts of it.
I bet you and Hamish know all about this. Probably some guy who was going to get on one of your planned first ascents ahead of you...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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That would have been Fred, and he's still around!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
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Crazy! Hope they didn't stir up any pterodactyl nests!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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The remains were just over two years old. Last summer the RCMP was notified of what was suspected to be human remains by climbers who had scrambled or rapped into the gully to retrieve a dropped camera case from the Squamish Buttress.
The RCMP and Coroner requested SAR's assistance in recovering the remains. Many of the large bones and the person's clothing were recovered at that time. Unfortunately the vegetation was so thick at that time of year that many of the small bones could not be found, and may have been assumed to be lost.
On Thursday the 26'th I was scrambling up there on my own (not looking for remains) and came across some of the missing smaller bones in an area that seasonally would be thick with ferns and other plants, but right now is completely open. I informed SAR, who contacted the agencies who were involved before to see if this was the same area. (I wasn't on the recovery last summer) The coroner's office asked if we would again assist in attempting to retrieve the balance of the remains, so that there would hopefully be no future calls about other finds in that area.
I tucked the remains that I had located off to the side of the gully away from the loose wash area. When we returned on Saturday the 28th, those remains were missing, and there were what appeared to be very fresh foot prints in the moss leading to or from the Squamish Buttress. We recovered what we hope to be the balance of what was in the area, and jugged out.
We talked to several local climbers who spotted climbers several pitches from the top of the Buttress just before dark on Friday the 27'th. It is unknown if these climbers finished the route, or descended, possibly by route of the gully. If they happened to pick up the remains, its not a big deal. No one is in trouble. The Coroner's office simply needs to consolidate and inventory all of the remains, so that the case can be closed. If these remains turn up somewhere else, its a whole lot more paperwork for someone, and it may take a long time to be linked to the correct case. They can be turned in anonymously even. No Problem .
As I said before, feel free to contact me directly if you'd like. We're just trying to give as much closure to this case as possible for the family, and the agencies involved.
Thanks,
Kris Wild
604-815-8637
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RyanD
climber
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Thanks for clarifying Kris.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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The missing remains have been turned over to the coroner. Many thanks for the community cooperation to have this resolved!
Kris
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
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Nice Kieran!!
Live from the pillar!!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Killing it Mike! You still in the big boy harness?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
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Ya buddy. Gonna try out my safe harness tomorrow. Think it should be good. It wasn't pretty today. Definetly not at the top of my game yet. But i got up there!!
Looking forward to tying in with you again Greg.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
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Luke and I went for a run up the Grand last week, Wall style.
It was my first time short fixing, and Luke did all the leading and hauling. I was trying to free as much as possible on my ushba.
We started on Apron Strings and Luke had the first pitch fixed in no time.
I struggled trying to free it and self belay and I ended up jugging it. I only had one jug and aider so it ended up being very inefficient.
It was good lesson.
#1. Only try and free stuff well within my abilities.
#2. Take off excess layers when climbing. Better to be cold at the belay than sweating buckets on the pitch.
#3. You're not as strong as you used to be.. Yet. ;)
I got to the belay and Luke was already up the next corner. I sorted the rack quickly and tagged it up to him.
I said "on belay" and he set off quickly for the tree. The line was fixed again in no time, and I was ready for it. This pitch flowed much better and despite a couple hangs for a few well placed nuts, I followed it free.
Pulling over the lip. I looked up to find Luke hanging off the second bolt of Merci Me.
Another quick change over and Luke was off like a rocket.
I followed the next pitch quickly and ended up doing a bit of a tension traverse at the end to reach the anchor.
Up till now i had been rushing so much, I never had an opportunity to pull out the camera. A little more time at the belay provided me a moment to take a couple shots while Luke ran out his slack.
The Golden Throat Charmer
The traverse to the pillar with Howe Sound behind
Luke was kind enough to provide me a belay for the traverse pitch, but it wasn't pretty. I was pretty worn out by the time i reached the belay.
Luke at the split pillar belay.
Kyle and Nina were little specks on peasants route.
We decided to have lunch on top of the pillar and then bail. Luke set off and I soon realized our decision well timed.
Luke taking advantage of the no hands stance..
Life is Grand..
I hope you like jammin'
Pano
My performance on the pillar was sub-par to say the least. The moves we all there but my body was just way too tired to do them. I cheated through the layback start and after much hanging scratched my way up the thing..
On top we ate our sandwiches greedily and enjoyed our perch for a bit before we descended back to the lush forest below.
It felt pretty good to get back to a place I had dreamed of returning for the past couple years.
This thing haunts my dreams.
Hope you've all enjoyed this nice dry weather! Looks like it will be wet for a bit.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Mar 11, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
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Damn, the Pillar looks way too f*#king good. Nice pics and climbing.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Mar 11, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
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Yayyyyy Mike! And Luke too for rope gunnin with ya. Awesome to see you getting after it. The base of the pillar probably hasn't seen haul bags for quite a while!
Your photo of looking up at Luke on the pillar made me want to get you a new rope, then I realized it was just the photo stitching software.... :)
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
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Thanks Justin! It's gravy man!
Kris! Thanks buddy! Lol, ya the iphone pano does funny things to moving objects. Lol. We gotta hook up soon! I got a present for ya.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
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Thanks for that ^^^ Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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You're welcome Darwin!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 11, 2015 - 10:20pm PT
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Hey Mike, makes me very happy to see you on that!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 11:59pm PT
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Thanks Glenn! Congrats on the success of your book!
Tami! So crazy. It's basically felt like spring most of the winter..
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 12, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
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Jim
It probably took a lot of beer to achieve it. Speaking of which...........
........Piton lager beer, the mystic mountain taste.............
........Brewed exclusively for OGs.
Goooooooood.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Mar 12, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
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Hamie, great photo. Did you bring any "pitons" back?
Jim, nice photo; where is it?
The book is the brand new "Hot Springs of Western Canada." Yes, it's a guidebook, and no, it's got zilch Squamish or climbing content. But we are really happy with it. It made #4 on the BC bestseller list last week.
Seeing as you asked....
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