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Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 02:03pm PT

Sweet Hip Belay! :)

I don't know who the belayer is. I tried to cheat but Tami couldn't remember when she originally posted it... Lol

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Feb 25, 2015 - 02:16pm PT

Sweet Hip Belay! :)

And no need to bother with one of those silly "climbing harness" things.

Scrubber

climber

Straight outta Squampton

Feb 25, 2015 - 02:44pm PT

Before the rains arrived this afternoon, I finally finished the retro-scrubbing and re-bolting of Movin' to Montana. My sincere apologies to anyone who went to do this old classic over the last two years and had to work around my fixed lines. I don't make the time I used to for route cleaning, and sometimes get distracted for months at a time.

I first did this route in '99 or so, and was quite captivated by its tenuous linking of small discontinuous features. Back then there was still one or two pins on the traverse at the end of the third pitch, and many on the fourth. Nowadays the route has gotten a reputation for being quite runout in that area. From asking a few of the Old Guard, It sounds like the pitch 3 traverse used to be a quite well protected clip-up, with pins every few of body lengths.

Overall, the route had a mish-mash of fixed protection ranging from pitons, (all but one were completely rusted to bits), 1/4 inch stainless, and carbon steel bolts, and 3/8 stainless and carbon steel bolts. Most anchors had at least four bolts of varying age, size, and quality. All bolts that were not 3/8 inch stainless were upgraded, and all of the pins were replaced with bolts unless solid natural pro was available in it's place or close by. Anchors were consolidated to 2 good bolts.

The cracks on pitch 1 and 3 had filled in with soil and weeds quite badly in spots, and got the royal treatment. The small cedar that you wrestled through half way up the tips corner on pitch 1 also had to go. This may up the grade a notch, time will tell.

Please give the route some lovin' this season. It's an inspiring line, and it's easy to imagine the first ascentionist's excitement of leading off into the unknown with a hand drill and some pins. With big exposure and tenuous thin cracks and slab, the route still retains its spicy feel. Even the rap over the big roof to get down is pretty fun.

K

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Feb 25, 2015 - 03:48pm PT

Well done Kris. I hope the route sees more traffic now.

And re the belayer in the photo, It looks kind of like Doug Fox, who was certainly a friend of Don's, but I'm not sure. Hard to imagine him in the pub with us scruffier types, but who knows?

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 06:06pm PT

Nice work Kris.

Eric did one more route yesterday. Travis had cleaned up a nice 5.7 crack left of the burgers walk off.

He left his rope on it, so i snapped some pics of Eric on the solo FFA

Bearbreeder scoping the route.

Starting up. A little solo FA cleaning.
Tall Can Al spots.

I'll just clean this lock up a bit...

Reaching for glory.

Scrubber

climber

Straight outta Squampton

Feb 25, 2015 - 06:19pm PT

Here's the only phone shot I took today of the tips corner on M2M after the stump was pulled. Sorry for no scale in the picture... Its purple to blue TCU's for about 10m. Old school 10d. For you Valley folks, it's similar to the last pitch of The Moratorium, but not as steep.

K

RyanD

climber

Feb 25, 2015 - 07:57pm PT

Looking forward to checking this out scrubber, thanks for the efforts- post more pics when u get a chance!!

TheSoloClimber

Trad climber

Vancouver

Feb 25, 2015 - 09:05pm PT

Hey KW - is that picture of the first pitch of Moving to Montana Commando Crack, as it is called in the guidebook? Or above Commando Crack?

Scrubber

climber

Straight outta Squampton

Feb 25, 2015 - 10:22pm PT

It's the pitch above Commando Crack. Most folks start up to the right near the base of the Java Jive slab. I sure wish there was some way to divert the water flow that seeps out of the bottom half of Commando Crack. It's wet for so long that it needs a scrub every season that it actually dries.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Feb 26, 2015 - 08:39am PT

Another thanks, Kris. An excellent choice for some work.

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Feb 26, 2015 - 09:08am PT

This thread makes me want to move to Squamish for a few lifetimes (then back to Yos for the long haul).

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 11:44am PT

Thanks Tad and Lebruce! I often wonder how many taco regulars lurk here.

Kris- MTM looks super fun. Thanks for all your hard work.

skcreidc

Social climber

SD, CA

Feb 26, 2015 - 12:16pm PT

Not sure I'd consider myself a regular, but I lurk a lot. Great thread!!

Tricouni

Mountain climber

Vancouver

Feb 28, 2015 - 07:57pm PT

I never met him, but he sounded like an amazing guy. Condolences to family and friends.

wayne w

Trad climber

the nw

Feb 28, 2015 - 08:39pm PT

My Condolnces to Tami, and Paul's friends and family. If you google his name there are many interesting pieces written about him over the years. He was a very talented visionary.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Mar 2, 2015 - 10:18am PT

Aw sh#t. What a shame.

Check out his Flickr feed here. In addition to many mountain pics there are lots of digitally retouched scans from classic early 20th century magazines, which was another hobby of his.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/paulmalon/

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2015 - 10:23am PT

My condolences to Tami and all his friends and loved ones. Thanks for the link Dru.

Scrubber

climber

Straight outta Squampton

Mar 2, 2015 - 07:03pm PT

I'm sorry to steer this away from the sad news of the passing of Paul Malon, but we need the community's assistance.

I've been asked by the coroner's service as a member of Squamish SAR to post the following press release:

March 2, 2015

BC Coroners Service seeks public assistance with identification

VANCOUVER – The BC Coroners Service, assisted by Squamish Search and Rescue and Squamish

RCMP, is seeking the public’s help in recovering some skeletal remains from the Stawamus Chief

near Squamish.

On Feb. 27, 2015, these agencies were made aware of the possibility that skeletal remains had

been found in the upper south gully of the Stawamus Chief where climbers could exit on treed

ledges left from the "Squamish buttress" route into a gully. As a result of receiving this

information, the agencies entered into a multi-agency recovery exercise in the area on Feb. 28.

During the recovery exercise, it was noted that an additional person or persons had apparently

entered the area at some point between 3 p.m. on Feb. 26 when the remains were last seen,

and noon on Feb. 28. It is believed that this person or persons may have unknowingly become

involved in the recovery operation.

The BC Coroners Service would like to stress that there is no suggestion that this person or

persons had any improper motives nor that they are in any legal difficulty as a result. However,

the BC Coroners Service would like to speak with this person or anyone else who may be able

to assist with this recovery.

Anyone with information is asked to call the Metro Region coroner at 604 660-7731 or text the

Whistler-Squamish coroner at 604 815-3567.

Media Contact:

Barb McLintock

Coroner, Strategic Programs

BC Coroners Service

Barbara.mclintock@gov.bc.ca

Thanks for any help you may be able to provide. If you'd feel more comfortable contacting me directly with any information you may have, please feel free.

Kris Wild
Squamish SAR
604-815-8637