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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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Yes Tom. Luke and Kieran are on Cowboys and Indians. They were going light so it's probably gonna be a long one for them. Luke is jugging over the upper roof, in the dark, as i write this.
I see lights on the buttress as well as the badge. Epic time! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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Lol nwo. Tom is Mooser. Sorry to confuse you.
I talked to Kieran. He said they had two pitches left to Sasquatch and he wasn't sure what the plan would be after that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
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Luke says they have no bivy gear.. With lows of 0c tonight i bet they're gonna run up Angel's and finish.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:35pm PT
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Nice shots Mike.
technically ppl have been bouldering in the bluffs for probably 40 years, in the last 8 or 9 though the smaller steeper rocks definitely started getting used.
Hey NWO I'm still stumped, say what's up if u see me out there.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:41pm PT
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The Chief's alive tonight!
The boys on C&I, taken an hour ago.. also, lights on the top of the Buttress and Bellygood..not bad for Feb 21!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
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Ryan- Of course. I just meant that the way people look at the smaller bluffs these days is different.
Saugy- Thanks! Looks like Luke had just reached the 5th belay, on that second photo which means one A1 pitch to Sasquatch.
Jim- Are you suggesting that navigating Sasquatch ledge in the dark might be interesting?
:)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 10:13pm PT
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Jim- Have you stayed in the bivy cave on Sasquatch??
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 12:36am PT
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I wonder if a couple of lads are having a bivy on top of the sheriff tonight.....
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 22, 2015 - 07:16am PT
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Enjoyed this write-up of a solo ascent of Cowboys and Indians on Cascade Climbers. Looks pretty amazing for such a relatively short climb!
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 07:36am PT
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Super long pitches on Cowboys. I remember the roof pitch being absurd, i think it was about 35m to the roof then through the roof and up more for a good 55m of climbing. Crazy rope drag and so much rack....it was put up solo so no drag issues.
It gets a few ascents too, I can think of 5 in the last couple of years. Got one last night.....
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 22, 2015 - 10:09am PT
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Any update on the Sheriff's Badge team? Hopefully Luke writes a TR.
We were climbing at Shuteye yesterday, very fun, but we shouldn't be up there without snowmobiles right now.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2015 - 11:13am PT
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Super long pitches on Cowboys. I remember the roof pitch being absurd
ya it is... the anchor is at the top of the black streak on the crescent.
same shot with more perspective
Original Image
no updates yet. they're probably sleeping it off... somewhere.. ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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I heard from the boys. 18hr push, and they slept in the bivy cave at the top.
Both enjoyed the route despite some scary rockfall shenanigans on one of the expando traverse flakes. I'll let them expand on that thought.
They rapped down the gully early this morning as they hadn't brought any bigger gear for Angel's.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
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Yeah, the A1 traverse is sketch....
Im just getting off fluffy kitten wall now....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
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Nice Nick. What was it like up there??
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 06:51pm PT
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Awesome. A little iced up in critical spots but totally clean and easy access.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 22, 2015 - 10:04pm PT
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I was a little curious about the actual climbing up on the Sheriff's Badge. I assume it is mostly aid. How much of it is fixed and how much is clean. Do you still need a hammer and any old school metal like a piton? Heads, beaks, hooks, rurps? I'm just a retired old-school heavy-metal fart that wants to know how the kids get it done these days. How many times did you use some kind of cam?
Post up Luke or Kieran, please. You guys owe me that much.
Smoldering in Seattle.
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Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
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Feb 22, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
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Wayno I've been up the badge twice via aid routes, and yes everything is aid if your route goes to the top of Sasquatch Ledge. Some cool free routes also share the space but are only a few pitches long.
Our party on Cowoys hammered about 4 times I think. I didn't hammer anything and did the crux and the roof, but I certainly clipped fixed gear all over the place. There are many fixed heads on pitch two.
Also did the Sherrifs Badge route and once again, I only placed two pieces of gear on the crux pitch. Total clip up. The rest went mostly clean, maybe a dozen fixed pieces and 6 hammered.
I star at that wall everyday from my house, it's super rad!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:02am PT
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Cowboys and Indians A3+
FA Perry Beckham solo
FOD Perry Beckham, Scott Cosgrove
An engaging, exciting and adventurous route on an outrageously steep chunk of rock. The route for he most part follows exfoliating flakes interspersed with wild hooking sections and rivet ladders.
I would estimate 40 hook placement on the 3 pitches led, most of which bolt protected though there were some section protected by equalized fixed head(which I hooked around but equalized with a screamer) some on the hooking on p2 was protected by hand placed pitons and beaks. The last pitch involved hooking around a c1 hand crack I didn't have cams for.
On the "A1" traverse section of pitch 3 I was cam jugging between fixed cams and about 15 feet left of my last protection piece standing on one cam and sussing out another, when I added a bit of weight to my next piece a 3'x2'x6" section of the flake snapped right off hittin me in the left wrist and continuing downward.
I instantly began yelling rock at the top of my lungs. As the rock hit the slab below it exploded in to 3 big pieces 2 of which landed within a meter in either side of a fellow climber who unbeknownst to us was down below. The third chunk of this section of flake grazed this woman's beanie, which was on her helmetless head. Within millimetres of total skull obliteration.
The rest of pitch was stout with some free climbing past some hand place tomahawks, some thinness and underestimation of the difficulty.
Kieran got us through the roof and to the start of the last pitch at a steady pace given the steepness, fatigue and lack of water.
For ultimate efficiency I would have preferred to do each a block of 3 pitches but Kieran wanted the first pitch but not the second so he led p1, p4 and p5. Leaving me with p2, p3 and p6. Making for 3 leader swaps and associated friggery.
Overall a great outing with an excellent partner. Great to get back into saddle being that it was our first wall in over a year.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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Sh#t yeah Luke! Nice pics and climbing all day it sounds like. Holy sh#t on the beanie graze.
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