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Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
Jan 4, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
I recently found out that my ...device lets me download old books for nothing, so I recently found the journals of old Capt Vancouver from bitd (1792?).

While on the topic of place names and such, thought I'd share a few passages from this journal

Quitting point Atkinson, and proceeding up the sound, we passed on the western shore some detached rocks, with some sunken ones amongst them, that extend about two miles, but are not so far from the shore as to impede the navigation of the sound ; up which we made a rapid progress, by the assistance of a fresh southerly gale, attended with dark gloomy weather, that greatly added to the dreary prospect of the surrounding country. The low fertile shores we had been accustomed to see, though lately with some interruption, here no longer existed; their place was now occupied by the base of the stupendous snowy barrier, thinly wooded, and rising from the sea abruptly to the clouds ; from whose frigid summit, the dissolving snow in foaming torrents rustled down the sides and chasms of its rugged surface, exhibiting altogether a sublime, though gloomy spectacle, which animated nature seemed to have deserted. Not a bird, nor living creature was to be seen, and the roaring of the falling cataracts in every direction precluded their being heard, had any been in our neighbourhood. Towards noon I considered that we had advanced some miles within the western boundary of the snowy barrier, as some of its rugged lofty mountains were now behind, and to the southward of us. This filled my mind with the pleasing hopes of finding our way to its eastern side. The sun shining at this time for a few minutes afforded an opportunity of ascertaining the latitude of the east point of an island which, from the shape of the mountain that composes it, obtained the name of Anvil Island, to be 49'30, its longitude 237’3,......
...it soon narrows to half that breadth, taking a direction to the NNE as far as latitude 49° 39', longitude 237° 9', where all our expectations vanished, in finding it to terminate in a round basin, encompassed on every side by the dreary country already described. At its head, and on the upper part of the eastern shore, a narrow margin of lowland runs from the foot of the barrier mountains to the Water-side, which produced a few dwarf pine trees, with some little variety of underwood. The water of the sound was here nearly fresh, and in color a few shades darker than milk ; this I attributed to the melting of the snow, and its water passing rapidly over a chalky surface, which appeared probable by the white aspect of some of the chasms that seemed formerly to have been the course of water-falls, but were now become dry. The gap we had entered in the snowy barrier seemed of little importance, as through the valleys, caused by the irregularity of the mountaintops, other mountains more distant, and apparently more elevated, were seen rearing their lofty heads in various directions. In this dreary and comfortless region, it was no inconsiderable piece of good fortune to find a little cove in which we could take shelter, and a small spot of level land on which we could erect our tent ; we had scarcely finished our examination when the wind became excessively boisterous from the southward, attended with heavy squalls and torrents of rain, which continuing until noon the following day, Friday the 15th, occasioned a very unpleasant detention. But for this circumstance We might too hastily have concluded that this part of the gulf was uninhabited. In the morning we were visited by near forty of the natives, on whose approach, from the very material alteration that had now taken place in the face of the country, we expected to find some difference in their general character. This conjecture was however premature, as they varied in no respect whatever, but in possessing a more ardent desire for commercial transactions ; into the spirit of which they entered with infinitely more avidity than any of our former acquaintances, not only in bartering amongst themselves the different valuables they had obtained from us, but when that trade became slack, in exchanging those articles again with our people ; in which traffic they always took care to gain some advantage, and would frequently exult on the occasion. Some fish, their garments, spears, bows and arrows, to which these people wisely added , their copper ornaments, comprized their general stock in trade. Iron, in all its forms, they judiciously preferred to any other article we had to offer....
...about nine o'clock landed for the night, near the west point of entrance into the sound, which I distinguislied by the, name of Howe's Sound, in honor of AdmiraL Earl Howe...

..I like his description of the dreariness of the area, how he guesses why the water got its colour, the poor weather they experienced (some things don't change), and the commercial resourcefulness of the local natives is interesting ..

Happy 2015!
Don
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 4, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
My first climb was Banana peel and an aid ascent up 1st pitch of Exasperator. I took a rock climbing course with Cam Cairns in 1982.Bruce, if I had Josh's sausage fingers I'd save anything small for later also.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 4, 2015 - 05:54pm PT
MH2 is that last thing you posted The Groove into Frankenstein Tradster or something like that? Very far right of Apron.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 4, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
BK, I've been saving the Grand that way. For the onsight, I believe. Saving it for 24 years and change.

Sadly, it'll be a flash at best, now.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Jan 4, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
Yes. Dreary and comfortless. But sublime. And gloomy.


is that last thing you posted The Groove into Frankenstein Tradster

Dunno about The Groove, but we were trying to follow directions for Frankenstein Tradster as found on Quickdraw publications free downloads.
Rolfr

Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Jan 5, 2015 - 02:09pm PT
Slab Alley, my first 5.10 on the upper variation, first year of climbing. I switched to an el cheapo pair of Zeller's runners with yellow sticky soles, for that bit. I swear that they may have been made with the first ever sticky rubber formula before Fires!

That year, or maybe the next, Bill McNeil convinced me to lead some run out 10b slab horror at the top of the Apron, which left all my knuckles and extremities bloodied and raw after multiple falls, with him shouting encouragement, "you got it mate". I think he was just happy to find a new gullible fool.
Does any one know the history of Bill, at one point I thought he was Randy's uncle? He gave me the most valuable piece of advise as a beginner that I still use today. " Climb in the TV screen" keep your focus to the area around you, the size of a TV screen, don't worry about what is outside that, focus on the immediate moves.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
Andy- Looks like you found FT. It's very similar to the topo anyways. The groove looks interesting.. I'll have to check out both this summer.


Rolf- Was the "10b" Bran Flakes perhaps?

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2015 - 09:19am PT
I got down to squish briefly yesterday..

There was just enough light to catch this sunset.
Rolfr

Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Jan 8, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
Mike, I dont think so, that was a Croft route further to the climbers right, I don't have a copy of the guidbook with me so I may be wrong. All I recall is EB's, lack of bolts and blood.
Even Anders route, Question of Balance, also locally know as "The bird walk" was a serious undertaking in EB's.
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
Jan 9, 2015 - 10:10am PT
Tami,
If my memory still works I believe the cove Vancouver and his boys dropped anchor in is porteau cove.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 9, 2015 - 06:10pm PT
If my memory still works I believe the cove Vancouver and his boys dropped anchor in is porteau cove.

I think they did a couple of routes on the slabs there. I recall going up on something at Porteau a long time ago and looking at the (very sparsely placed) bolts and thinking "These things look like relics from the 18th Century!"

Does anybody know anything about the climbs there? Glenn? Hamish?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 07:12pm PT
Tami-Glad you enjoyed it!

Rolf- It must have been Eric's route then unless it started left of granville street?

I've often wondered about those slabs.. the low angle ones before the corner right?
bm

Social climber
pluto
Jan 9, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
Well I was digging thru the basement and found a couple of old issues of COAST magazine (remember that rag?... its only redeeming feature was Tami's 'toon)...

... and so there was always one issue (Jul/Aug 1995) that bugged me b/c I couldn't place the location of the cover photo, and after all these years, I still can't get it. Can anyone please put me out of my misery?


As you'll see from the second photo, it's Helen Habgood "in a far-away place", photo credit to Jim Sibley.

And for a spin down memory lane, here's Tami's 'toon from that issue, 19.5 years later, and reprinted without permission :)

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 9, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
Not sure if this has been posted here? Just saw it for the first time.

http://m.epictv.com/media/podcast/alex-honnold-solos-a-years-worth-of-climbing-in-16-hours-%7c-birthday-challenge-ep-3/600915

Edit- nice BM!
Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
Jan 9, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
My boss makes a cameo in that!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jan 9, 2015 - 11:10pm PT
I'm going to go out on a limb and say south east ridge of Robbie Reid in that pic. Tami, what are you doing up so late? You have obligations tomorrow!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 10, 2015 - 08:25am PT
As you'll see from the second photo, it's Helen Habgood "in a far-away place", photo credit to Jim Sibley.

I don't recognize that peak, and I don't remember Helen ever climbing Robie Reid (although it's possible). I think she won't be back from India for another few weeks, but I'll see if she replies to an email.

And I'd still like to hear some history of the climbing on the slabs at Porteau Cove.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Jan 10, 2015 - 11:04am PT
Bill McNeill was a nice guy with great energy and famous for taking HUGE WHIPPERS on the Apron.

Porteau Slabs?
A couple obvious steep corners on the right side.
Gymnastic Sisters by Dean and bmac?
"Short but good looking".
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 10, 2015 - 11:15am PT
If you mean the slabs on the east side of the road, some of us fooled around there in the early 1960s. Once, AS and I were doing something when the police showed up (just passing through, not looking for us). They were not amused to see us climbing there and kicked us off.

Other than that, I know nothing about the history of the routes there. Hamish?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2015 - 11:19am PT
You Hooligan Glenn! Climbing on the side of the road.. What got into you?? ;)
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