Classic Ice Primer- Chouinard Catalog 1968

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pacyew

Social climber
Fall City WA
Apr 14, 2019 - 03:19pm PT
I’m curious as well regarding that question. Fritz has posted images of a beautiful ash shafted 55 which shows the same smaller diameter ferrule with tapered wood above. Also the original ‘70 Flyer depicts what appears to be an ash 55 with the same.
pacyew

Social climber
Fall City WA
Apr 14, 2019 - 03:20pm PT
pacyew

Social climber
Fall City WA
Apr 14, 2019 - 03:32pm PT
pacyew

Social climber
Fall City WA
Apr 15, 2019 - 01:49pm PT
Just wanted to add, this ash 55cm came to me from SoCal in pretty much “fresh from the tool shed” condition, with no attempt to clean it up. Rust and dirt had been there awhile. I finally decided to see what it actually might look like under the crud.
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Apr 15, 2019 - 02:08pm PT
Neat axe Jay. The rounded bottom on the teeth is a big deal for durability. Even more so if you get the pick hot cutting in the teeth.
pacyew

Social climber
Fall City WA
Apr 15, 2019 - 02:59pm PT
Yes, a rounded structure is key wherever stress could cause a fracture. What I’m usually doing for a living when not distracted by aging piolets.
[photoid=557776]
pacyew

Social climber
Fall City WA
Apr 15, 2019 - 03:01pm PT
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Apr 16, 2019 - 12:15am PT

;-)

RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Apr 20, 2019 - 11:28am PT
I saw the thread mentioning Twight's interview via pod cast. Knowing Mark some I found it entertaining.

Also reminded me of a conversation ha and I had prior to his last Denali climb (CZD) and him retiring. Tool trivia to follow.

At the time bent shafted tools were not all that common. They had easy access to BD tools at the time and I wondered/asked what Mark was taking for tools. At the time I really didn't think a bent shaft tool was gonna be all that great on the upper plod of the Cassin and much of the snow climbing. Mark seemingly agreed and took one of each a straight and a bent shaft. House took a pair of the then "new" bent shafted Cobras.

These were the tools Mark used on the CZD. Funny now when guys use Nomics to get up the Cassin which has a lot less technical climbing than the CZD. And ski poles are now a common bit of added kit for the upper Cassin.

The older Cobra and straight shaft tools are now obsolete for the most part. As are wrist slings. And the new Cobra or Petzl Quark not all that "radical" these days but common tools seen on any technical mtn route.



Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 20, 2019 - 11:38am PT
Bob Carmichael, back in the early 90s, made a pretty cool film about Duncan Ferguson climbing Bridalveil in Telluride.
He was using Black Prophets and Mono points. Damn did he ever look smooth!

It's the first time I saw an ice climber just placing their feet, rather than kicking.
Sadly, it's not available on YouTube or anywhere else. At some point I'm going to get a hold of Bob and see if he can come up with it.
RDB

Social climber
Great Basin
Apr 21, 2019 - 01:37pm PT
Neat stuff Tar. Some guys were just ahead of the curve. Took me a long time to get on fragile ice. Ice that in turn required delicate foot and tool placements or you'd simply knock every thing down.

A technique, once learned for both hands and feet (easier yet with modern gear) allows one to climb ice a lot more like you climb rock. I'd sure like to see that film and some of Jello's old stuff again too.


pacyew

Social climber
Fall City WA
May 23, 2019 - 04:41pm PT
On my own early (?) ash handled 55 cm Piolet the shaft tapers slightly as it enters the smaller diameter ferrule (smaller than the later production). Fritz’s beautiful specimen shows this tapered shaft as does dee dee’s and the image of the Piolet from the 1970 Chouinard brouchure.
Also, my own ash 55 shows no evidence of a cross pin in the ferrule. It’s my guess that Fritz’s would show that same lack. (?).
The forth ash 55cm on this forum came from Wayne Merry, showing only the head. Would love to see the rest of it.
Sadly, many of the images on this and other threads are already gone.
Also, this has me curious about the early 70cm Hickory Piolets described in the ‘70 Brochure. I wonder, did they also have the smaller ferrule?
Doug Robinson, Fritz, Steve Grossman, Dane????
Hope to visit again with you all, somewhere down the road.

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