Classic Ice Primer- Chouinard Catalog 1968

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 19, 2007 - 04:53pm PT
Here is the Ice master himself, dagger in hand. The Chouinard Crampon was just out and the Piolet still in the oven....
THE Crampon.
Pardon the coffee stain (not mine) but groove on the technique!
Gotta love those screws, for opening a wine bottle perhaps!
Makes my knees want to go akimbo just lookin' at YC!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
May 19, 2007 - 05:09pm PT
kewl!

what font is that?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2007 - 05:16pm PT
The wild west cover font?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
May 19, 2007 - 05:34pm PT
Great Steve.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
May 19, 2007 - 09:39pm PT
Steve - classic! - I had that catalog in high school - I think I wore it out from looking at it too much and drooling on it....
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
May 19, 2007 - 11:10pm PT
Beck crampon straps
Carmen Supergaiters
Glaibier Super Guides
Imported Rugby Shirts
Original Standup Shorts
Foamback anorack and cagoule (spell?)
Crag Dubh pack
Ultima Thule pack


these probably came a bit later...

was Doug Robinson's Talus Running article in '76?



Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
May 20, 2007 - 12:04am PT
That is awesome Steve!!
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
May 20, 2007 - 12:32am PT
Very cool. I had a Ultima Thule pack when I was a young teen ager. Did an outward bound style trip with it starting in the pinto basin and exiting down rattlesnake canyon in Indian Cove. Very cool pack.
rockermike

Mountain climber
Berkeley
May 20, 2007 - 02:06am PT
I still have that ice screw, and a knock off of those crampons in may "active" gear. Screw I've been carrying for years waiting for a chance to bail and leave the thing behind on a bail.
YC was definitely my hero growing up.

I sold my bamboo shaft piolet years ago. Kind of miss it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 12:00pm PT
I have the 1975 catalog right here, Ray so hang tight! Talus running wildmen will appear shortly.

Comin' at ya from stage left. Gotta love Mr. Robinson's neighborhood!






marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
May 20, 2007 - 01:54pm PT
"One does not face falling into a cauldron of Winnebagos..."

How rad is that?! Thanks Steve!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 02:18pm PT
Death by Winnebago, I had forgotten that the realms of demise had that category! I always wondered what DR was running away from. Must have been a JT episode early on.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
May 20, 2007 - 04:02pm PT
Thanks Steve.
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
May 20, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
Steve,

I lost my copy of the catalog, but perhaps you could do me a favor.

Post up the photo with the quote "loose your dreams and you'll loose your mind"

Thanks, James
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 05:14pm PT
James, that would be in the 1972 clean climbing catalogue (mine is buried right now) and captions a pic of the Moose's Tooth. Go to Frostworksclimbing.com and you should find it.

Edit: Regrettably, as a highschool student, I cut that very quote out for a coat of arms art project.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 05:32pm PT
I'd have to go digging for that classic old Patagonia buttshot. The photographer was lurking around the C4 lot, identified herself, and said she was looking for oldschool clothing because pics of the stuff made YC happy. I went back to my tent and proudly put on the coffee colored garb of yesteryear.

She blanched a little when I happily showed her the plate-sized sardine oil stain on one leg while telling her I'd never washed those pants because I was convinced that any laundering would hasten their demise. I should say the only thing bad about the whole deal was the slightly smarmy caption, "Tailor wanted, no experience necessary." Just ain't what you'd really find on the C4 bulletin board. Got two pairs of new wall pants for my effort.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 20, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
Ruby Tuesday (Rolling Stone)

"She would never say where she came from
Yesterday don't matter if its gone
While the sun is bright
Or in the darkest night
No one knows
She comes and goes

Goodbye, Ruby Tuesday
Who could hang a name on you?
When you change with every new day
Still I'm gonna miss you...

Don't question why she needs to be so free
Shell tell you it's the only way to be
She just can't be chained
To a life where nothing's gained
And nothing's lost
At such a cost

Theres no time to lose, I heard her say
Catch your dreams before they slip away
Dying all the time
Lose your dreams
And you will lose your mind.
Ain't life unkind?

Goodbye, Ruby Tuesday
Who could hang a name on you?
When you change with every new day
Still I'm gonna miss you..."
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
May 20, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
Steve, thanks for pointing out the right catalog. Seeing those crampons made me go and dig mind out.



I bought them in the early seventies and were matched up with a pair of Super Guides. Later I used them on Scarpa Invernos, but in the mid nineties I figured the crampons should be retired before I was left stranded with a broken rig. I included a Charlet ice screw and a Salewa ice hog. I can't say the Charlet screw saw any action, especially when there was a Salewa tubular screw on the gear sling.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
That old Warthog does make a dandy dagger. I wonder if YC is using one on the catalog cover shot?
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
e350
May 20, 2007 - 11:18pm PT


Steve, your memory is better than mine. The Warthog was great cause it could be hammered in but screwed out. I was half right calling it an ice hog.
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