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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Oct 25, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
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Re: the slab facing the ramona.
This is reaching way back, but...
I made the trek up to that slab once. I seem to remember the routes being 5.9-ish. I also seem to remember they weren't worth the hike.
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neversummer
Mountain climber
perris, cali
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Oct 25, 2010 - 05:47pm PT
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cool thanks
it seems that the 2 bolts on the slab are newer as well as the 2 bolt anchor, same with the boulder but the bolts are placed on it about every 3-4 ft about 6-7 total
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neversummer
Mountain climber
perris, cali
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Oct 25, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
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this slabs about 30ft and the boulder is probally 20-25 ft
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
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Bad-ass Cragman !
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2010 - 10:15am PT
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DTLH,
It's a wonderful feeling when your son is willing to do stuff like this when all it took was you telling him "it's OK"
I don't think there is a more pure expression of love than when a child shows complete faith in a parents decision(s).
You reminded me of a time I went to BR and a group of marines were practicing "Australian Rappelling" from the bolts above Hanging Gardens.
We watch them for a couple of hours while we climbed and it was obvious disaster was just around the corner. They were really loud and cocky.
Sure enough the "teacher" lost control on a rappel and ran down that slab totally out of control. He somehow got tangled at the last few seconds and it saved him from hitting the deck at speed.
A few cuts and scrapes but he was OK.
His buddies gave him a rash of sh#t and they packed it up after that.
They talked to us afterwards and were really mellow.
Funny how that works !
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neversummer
Mountain climber
perris, cali
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Oct 26, 2010 - 10:31am PT
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good job by your son
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Damn this looks high
Trad climber
Temecula, Ca
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Oct 26, 2010 - 10:39am PT
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PUD, 'faith' might have been the one thing he lacked! I don't think he understands figure 8 knots or anchors--just, "Hold my hand, Dad." The things he does because I do them never ceases to amaze me.
Anyone have any info on a FFAA (first free autistic ascent) of Snake Dike? It'll be a contest to see which of us sh*ts his pants first!
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Damn this looks high
Trad climber
Temecula, Ca
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Oct 26, 2010 - 11:32am PT
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Thank you. Awefully proud of him too.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2010 - 08:22pm PT
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This bolted climb on a huge boulder is directly South towards the Ramona Expy.(that's it in the background)
Maybe an 1/8th mile from the summit of Big Rock.
6 or 7 years ago.. Fun, maybe 40 ft or so. Somewhere in the 10b/c range I think.
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neversummer
Mountain climber
perris, cali
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Oct 28, 2010 - 11:35am PT
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i think thats the boulder in question, is there a semi horizontal crack to the right that runs about 7-10 ft long about 5 ft off the deck ? if so that thing is perfect, i say screw the gym and the starf*#ks idiots this thing even has a practice chimney to the left and a slab climb even further to the left and its all fairly low hieght with the exception of the boulder
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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Your description is pretty accurate if memory serves.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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>>Awesome!
Whenever you get a chance.
Prognosis is good for my latest injury and I should be back to my normal climbing abilty by Jan/Feb. Until then I'll be on slabs, once I can get out of bed without help, that is.
Maybe you can lead me up "Run for your life"?
Never did tick that one.<<
Glad to hear you can at least slab for now! Yes, Run for your Life is a great one... a little like the climbing on Figures but nothing is quite as great as figures. lol Let's do it!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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was to BR yesterday--the trough is not what it used to be. maybe it's one of the most-climbed routes in california. resembles the texture of the resin they use for climbing gyms.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Happy New Year Folks!
An early G.Cobb guide to Big Rock with typography by J.Leisher no year listed.
Only one aid route left...
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Who actually did the FAs on those routes, and when? Always wondered about that.
JL
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Largo,
Lee Harrell and (?) put up Giant Step in the mid '60s. The Gleasons and I did the FFA of the Virgin. I'll think of more later. This photo of the late Paul G. belongs on this thread. Lee put up this route on a formation now either blown apart or underwater, called the Nose. There was a thin section with one aid move that Paul and I were able to finally do free at 5.10 (mid '60s). Happy New Year everyone!
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Nice one Keith!!!
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Cheers Bill! Another bit of trivia re: Big Rock is that Phil Haney and (Jim Barker?) did a 5.9 route on the large boulder/crag high on the hill on the opposite side of the entrance road - believe that would be north from Big Rock.
To the best of my knowledge, Englishman -John Gosling MD now at Stanford- did the FFA on English Hanging Garden. which I recall doing (40+years ago!) as a tricky left-handed hooked pinky mantel over the bulge.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Yeah, as well, I always wondered who put up those Big Rock routes. The whole LA/Riverside scene was always a mystery to us distant and naive Sandy Eggo folk. I'll always love Big Rock. I did my first consensus 5.10 there (something to the right of the Trough?) on a Sierra Club RCS trip. It seemed dead easy. In retrospect, the stuff we were already doing at Santee and Mission Gorge was way harder, but nothing at Santee was graded and the Gorge was a mutant sandbag crag. I'll always have a soft spot in my heart for the place.
Gotta have that photo from the back cover of Scumbag Digest around here somewhere...
Yep. Chillin' at the base after slaying the hards. You mean 18-year-olds can't do bongloads and drink at the base anymore? wtf!?
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