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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 9, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
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Christy belays Rudder up "The Trough" @ bigrock circa 1998
EDIT:
Your right Joe, you're on Boogaloo Direct 5.9 in this pic
I think the guy on the right is on Crater Maker 5.7
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Haha! But that is Boogaloo Direct! I miss Christy!
Now you've done it... I'll be breaking out the old pics and vids and posting them!
The vid of you climbing Stick To What with Debbie webbing tied to your back is a riot. And, Chad with the big toe flapper. lol
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Back in ~1974 two of my friends (who shall remain nameless) ditched high school to climb at BR. One of them led a pitch up to the belay on the ledge at the base of the left and right flake. The other started up one of the flakes (left?) with all the wrong sized pro (stoppers and hexes, of course). He got quite aways above the belay and started to grip up. He then decided to try and traverse out to the face route to the right to clip a bolt and get some pro. As you might suspect it didn't go as planned. He got out there and pitched off, taking a massive 100+ footer. My other friend using the as then normal hip belay had difficulty stopping him (contributing to the length of the fall). He suffered horrendous burns on his hands and around his waist.
I didn't know a thing about it until I went to visit one of the fellows after school. He answered the door with bandaged hands soaked in pus.
I have had many fun times at BR, learning to free solo, to solo belay and climbing routes without hands and in the rain there. It is one of the many places I have gotten a dog off a leash ticket. Love it!
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
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Niiice Joe,
OK, I'm diggin' through the scrapbooks...
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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(repost... was going to start a new thread) lol
Here's me and you on Hobbit Roof... circa '98... you're the shirtless one... I am, as usual, the man in black. lol
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I climbed at Big Rock once. As I recall "English Hanging Garden" or some such thing is a first class route.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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The "Rat Crack" is the classic.
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Chaz
Trad climber
Boss Angeles
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One day three guys are fishing in a rental-boat in the cove by The Rock. I don't know if they caught any fish, but they caught a hell of a buzz.
Every once in a while, one of them would holler up at us "HEY YOU UP ON THAT ROCK! DON'T FALL OFF OF THAT ROCK!" then they'd laugh like hell.
We knew they were yelling at us, because we had the rock to ourselves that day.
After a while we started yelling back at them "HEY YOU DOWN IN THAT BOAT! DON'T FALL OUT OF THAT BOAT!"
This went on all day.
Big Rock (we never call it that, it's "Perris Lake" to us) was more fun back when you could have dogs and beers there.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Dave Evans? (I remember bowing in the Country Kitchen at JT years back and chanting to you, "we're not worthy, we're not worthy." lol) Figures is the best climb ever! I remember doing Solid Gold first, circa 1980, some guys were doing figures whilst their girls were sun bathing nude on the rocks below... I almost came off of SG several times from being distracted. lol
""Back in ~1974 ... He got out there and pitched off, taking a massive 100+ footer.""
My buddy Bob took a long old whipper off "The Virgin" out at BR, too. Amazing how such a low angle slab created these big falls. :O I do remember sliding down Mad Dogs for a few feet in my EBs before making it... my partner actually stood up and walked up. :O
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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""I climbed at Big Rock once. As I recall "English Hanging Garden" or some such thing is a first class route.""
Yup, we cheat sticked the first bolt... and hung dog it alot since an 11b abdominal muscle route was not what I'm built for... even back in '80. lol Very good rock and black holds.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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""The "Rat Crack" is the classic.""
Yeah... love that one... always could watch alot of face climbers just not get the sequence on that one. It's a good solo, just one move off the ground...
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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""Big Rock (we never call it that, it's "Perris Lake" to us) was more fun back when you could have dogs and beers there.""
We always called it "Perris" too.
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Chaz
Trad climber
Boss Angeles
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Last time Perris Lake was the subject on here, someone posted pics of the rock before the lake was created.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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That was the first place I ever climbed with a rope. 3/8" Gold Line and single biners on the bolts because we didn't have enough for two. (draws were not invented yet)
In 69-70 the road had been closed and rerouted but the dam hadn't been built yet.
Crag and I both had motorcycles. He a 350 Kawasaki and I a 350 Yamaha. We'd race down the closed road past the barcades on about a mile of straight geting into the triple digits, do a couple of routes and race to the fruit stand, split a mellon and race back and do another route or two.
Got busted once by a CHP mid problem on the large overhanging bolder that was opposite the face then. (didn't recognize it last time I was out there) He demanded I "get down right now". I replied "do you want to explain why I fell and broke my leg?"
He let me finish and then kicked us out. No ticket though.
Strangest thing I ever saw there then was one day we showed up on the bikes and there was a guy starting up the Trough with a swami tied around his body cast. He'd broken his back in a fall in Yosemite. (I think that's what he said)
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Jan 10, 2009 - 12:35pm PT
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Weird- I had never actually climbed there till a few months ago. Not the best pics, but here's some from climbing with Cosmic. Dwain led the whole of the slab/flakes in one monster pitch to the limit of the 70m rope.
Me heading up the Trough. Again- combined the whole thing into one monster pitch.
Dwain Topside..
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Jan 10, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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Thanks Steve, for the link to the previous thread.
IMO, Raw Deal is the stand out line. Not too hard or a one move route,like ie. EHG, and lots 'o fun. It was a bit more sporting when the upside down pin protected the move over the little roof near the top. It gave cause for some inspection and grace. Now there's a bolt and most just clip and go.
Im just say'n.
Tony
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jan 10, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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"Raw Deal" sounds so familiar... but I don't remember where it was/is?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 10, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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Even humble little Big Rock has a rich history!
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Jan 10, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
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Raw Deal is just to the left of Giant Step me thinks. Been a while since I've been there. Starts up a bit then some thin traversing to the left past 2 or three bolts and up to a flake which is followed to a little roof with a bolt. Mantle and up and over to the top. No pictures, sorry.
Tony
Don Chambers will know for sure. Don.....
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