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Rodion
climber
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Dec 23, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
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I sure thought splitter was defined by being "straight-in," as in not in a dihedral.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
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I always just used the term to describe any crack that is fairly uniform. I guess I will go look at El Cap now to decide. What are you going to go look at. HA,HA.
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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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Dec 23, 2008 - 04:20pm PT
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Scooter, no need to get all superior since you now live a stones throw away from the captain! That crack you speak of is 'splitter' in the catagory you mean, meaning 'bad-ass', not just straight-in. I know the multi-lingo so I have you covered bro!
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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()
OK, I am back. The Captain says that this is also a splitter.
1, #3.5 camalot and a LONG way to go. Oops.
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thedogfather
climber
Midwest
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Dec 23, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
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For us old folk, the list isn't quite so heavy with big numbers:
Crimp Scampi
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
The Mud the Blood and the Beer
Hackberry Crack
WMA
Commodus
Mr Magoo
Hasenphefer
Poison Ivy
Stems and Seeds
Commodus
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
Hackberry Crack
Finally for the Missouri part of the thread:
Darth Aider
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2008 - 12:49am PT
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Those are great photos! Where is darth aider?
Is that a KC Rugby Club Shirt?
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JacksColdSweat
climber
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Dec 24, 2008 - 03:16am PT
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you should not find hackberry crack in the new guide book. As it is located at HCR.
great route.
what about Razorback Roof at Sams? Does it make this list?
JCS
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Elijah
climber
Fort Collins
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Dec 24, 2008 - 09:18am PT
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Here is a quick list:
Spank Me
Cling to Evil
Razorback Roof
Coup D'etat
Windy Armbuster
Demise of Mister Riffraff
Stems and Seeds
Wisdom and Folly
Big Top
Man Servant
It is hard to list only ten. I think this list might change on any given day.
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 24, 2008 - 10:56am PT
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Ya gaaawta climb these Boston Mtns cracks if you havent-
Slam Dance(8-perfect hands to wide chimney)
Poison Ivy(7- hands in a corner)
Too thick to Navigate(8- wide hands, hands)
Diet Pepsi(9- Offwidth)
Flame And Glory(10-fists, hands)
Involuntary Manslaughter(11-wide hands+hands)
Wild Thing(6-chimney)
Great Hog Farm Fire(10-hands+fingers)
Smoke in Your Eyes(9- hands in a corner to blocky roof hands)
Ombudsman(6- jug lined crack in a corner)
For Whom The Bell Tolls(Soft 10- perfect hands in a long, rising corner to a short traverse under a roof)
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Dec 24, 2008 - 11:10am PT
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I like this thread.
Elijah, glad you like Spank Me. Its name was also inspired by that hellion kid on my back up further in the thread. When I was going for the red point, my smaler wife was tied to a tree while belaying me. The kid was a hellion and ran around knowing his mom couldnt do anything, so he helled "you can't spank me, you can't spank me", plus well, I got pumped on that route.
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thedogfather
climber
Midwest
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Dec 24, 2008 - 04:00pm PT
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Darth Aider is in Wilton, Mo. I failed on the attempted FFA in the pic but Eric Forney picked up the first a little while later. I still have that rugby shirt btw. These routes are also at Wilton.
pictured is the FFA - Kansas City
This as another attempted FFA that was later claimed by Eric Forney.
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Rodion
climber
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Dec 24, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
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Scooter, I'm glad that you and El Cap are on speaking terms. Not everyone experiences verbal (and/or written) communication with a rock--especially not about US rock climbing-specific lingo. Congrats. You must be a very good person.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2008 - 03:42am PT
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thanks.
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Rodion
climber
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Dec 25, 2008 - 07:33pm PT
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Heh heh-- good brief response to a smartass comment. You seem a decent fellow; We should climb sometime.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
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Shoot me an email if you are out this way (Sierra). When I am free I climb as much as possible (too free lately).
Pat
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Rodion
climber
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Dec 26, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
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Sounds good, Scooter. I've been thinking about early summer in the Valley; perhaps we'll run into eachother.
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