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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 13, 2008 - 04:29pm PT
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Today I was thinking about how much I like climbing in Arkansas. Especially Sams Throne and Cave Creek. So I put a top 10 list together, not really in order. Anyone else? Pics?
Cat on a hot tin roof 5.10
Windy Arm buster 5.10
The Natural 5.9+
Dead Dog 5.11
Edge of Flight 5.10
Brown Sugar 5.10
Eminent Front 5.10
Processed Meat 5.10
Stick in Your Eye 5.9+
Pass The Jugs 5.10
Have Fun
Patrick
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scooter
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2008 - 06:13pm PT
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Those are pretty funny, Double Wide Direct. HA!
There really is a White Trash Wall, and route White Trash which is real nice .9+ vert to overhanging face.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Dec 13, 2008 - 06:17pm PT
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Sorry, home turf....hold it dear to my little tiny heart.
retracted.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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C'mon Capt'n, list a climb. Ever hit Sams?
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Dec 13, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
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So Captain, errr.. Skully, where you hail from? Perhaps we have crossed paths.
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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 13, 2008 - 08:18pm PT
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Thar aint no better place to climb than where its socially acceptable to climb in my overalls, with my shot gun over my shoulder and the dogs guarding the camp.
I love Arkansas rock! Sams throne and HCR are my favorite. It sure beats climbing in Missery, MO for those that don't know the nickname.
Ten ways you know your a climber in Missery
When you envision heaven you think of arkansas climbing
You spend at least half of the weekend driving to AR for the good climbing.
As you dive down the highway you start looking for routes on the crumbly road cuts
You have been chased out of a climbing area you thought was open by a redneck/hillbilly/trailertrash/hick/etc. firing a shotgun shell over your head
You drive 2 hrs to a wall with ten routes on it
You climb you chimney to clean the gutters instead of using a ladder.
Bouldering is when you go to the local park and climb on the 4 ft high kids wall
The state park officer arrests you for leaving the park property to climb in an area where you have the landowners permission. (climbing in MO state parks is mostly illegal)
There are only two climbers in your town
Your Carhartt serves as a belay jacket
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Dec 13, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
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Sharp County....Btween Cave City & Calamine(kinda nowhere).
A little climbing there, limestone.....Never climbed at the Throne.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
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Dec 13, 2008 - 08:41pm PT
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No sandstone like the SE sandstone, the features are damn near perfect.
I just put in my 2 weeks, heading back to AR after 3 months in northern Illinois.
Too bad this desk job got me fat and lazy, at least the ticks aren't bad and I can get out and work off this belly.
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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 13, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
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oh yeah routes
At HCR:
Party in the Back 5.8+ on the Mullet buttress
Little sprout 5.6 on Cliffs of insanity, my first lead
Gimp and Wheezer 5.10a my first 5.10
At sams throne
Dreadlock Rasta A2+
Albino Rhino 5.7+
The couch potato 5.9 I think
Toxic Shock A2+
etc.
scooter the new guidebook calls The Natural a 5.10b
edit: Hey Skipt not funny (kissin cousins) my cousins got married and squirrel stew is good, so is rattlesnake and bull frog legs
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2008 - 09:57pm PT
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HMmm, Dreadlock Rasta, pretty wall. Lynne Hill tried to free climb that I was told. One of my first aid climbs. Reminded me that Instant Karma is right there, nice little 5.11- and Patio Direct 5.9.
I kind of like the 5.9+ rating for The Natural. Seems pretty spot on. I like how there isn't really grade inflation at Sams. If you are climbing 5.9+ at Sams you probably can at most places.
The basis for 5.9+ at Sams for me has always been Judged by where they fall in difficulty in relation too The Natural, White Trash, Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, Razor Back Roof.
Nice job on the Arkansas aid, those aren't giveaways!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 13, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
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hey there scooter... say, great lesson for to learn about climbs there in arkansas... thanks very much... say:
noshirtnoshoes, those are GREAT PICTURES!... nice rock areas... very nice... i loveeeeeeee rocks... never seen arkansas ones yet...
thanks all, for the share...
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
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MOsucks-
I like climbing in MO. It is hard. Must be something 'bout MO. though cause I have had those fine delicacies as well (not my cousin of course). What crags do you hit in your state. Warsaw, Trappers Camp, Henley Wall and Schuelers Ferry have some good routes. Schuelers is steeeep hard limestone. If you like the aid climbing go down to the quarry by Osceola there is a 165ft roof crack that goes from knifeblade to #5 camalot and everything in between.
Patrick
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Dec 13, 2008 - 10:07pm PT
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Man...it sucks that I haven't climbed more in my home state!
In the East, I've only really climbed at the New, Seneca, & the T-Wall a little.
Dammit!
Oh, BTW, Skip....She weren't my sister(she's too fast)She were my cuzzin.
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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 13, 2008 - 10:24pm PT
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scooter, i understand on the ratings.
I couldn't imagine freeing Dreadlock Rasta, my partner did Instant Karma, I aint that good though
As far as climbing in MO been to trappers camp and warsaw kind of out of my way, if going that far might as well go to AR. Mostly a local place at devils elbow, pretty crappy but close or the river bluffs by Columbia. Henley Wall is where I got chased off with a shot gun. Keep wanting to drive by Scheuler Ferry but I hear of access issues.
I may have to hit up The Quarry now that you mention it and gas prices are down, guidebook says south facing so great for this time of year, maybe I'll get out one more time before my knee surgery on the 23.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
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Shotgun at Henley is a pretty common expirence I was lucky enough to for go the few times I hit it up. But a friend had the same happen to him. You have to park about a mile down the gravel road and no yelling for the belays etc....Kind of makes it a mission, thus uping the fun factor. Always made me wonder what other little hidden gems of crags were around.
P
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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 13, 2008 - 10:50pm PT
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yeah, the problem with Missouri is that there isn't enough public property which allows climbing. That is why I often just slide down to AR which is awesome climbing and without access issues. I know there are several other places which could be great crags but they are on private property and landowners don't want climbers crawling all over their property.
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MOsucks
Mountain climber
Generally MO but I get out of here every chance
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Dec 13, 2008 - 11:09pm PT
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very laid back climbing in AR, it can be more fun than other popular places. It is a very nice atmosphere if you fit in with the locals, that friendly midwest country society if you are one of them, if not then hold onto your britches we bite. Great climbing without the publicity or pressures that other areas of the country get. Even after I get out of MO I will be coming back yearly to climb in AR.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Dec 13, 2008 - 11:26pm PT
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Dang, climbing in AR? Who knew. Looks a tad bit nicer than here in IN. Now don't be surprised if there's waiting lines on your favorite lines now that the cat is outta the bag!
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
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I try to make a trip back there every couple years since I left KC. Not just for nostalgia but because the rock is so good. You should really check out Warsaw one day it isn't much further if at all than going to The Quarry or Trappers. Plus the limestone on a good number of routes is as good as it comes. You can also climb there when it is pretty cold if it's sunny.
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