Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Al_T.Tude
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
|
The Yosemite Decimal System is neither.
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2008 - 10:57pm PT
|
F something
|
|
apogee
climber
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2008 - 02:01pm PT
|
Best quotes from this thread (thusfar):
"Rating climbs is a pretty subjective business."
"ill crush everything in my flip flops and downgrade it. im just that good."
"Ahhh Jtree.. the land where crusty old neverwere's feed their shriveled egos by shredding those of hapless newbies"
"glurgg gluck glurrrrrrr
BLAARRRFFFF!!!"
Hope you are all out climbing today somewhere.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2008 - 02:22pm PT
|
This pearl takes the prize, hands down:
"ill crush everything in my flip flops and downgrade it. im just that good."
|
|
climbingbuzz
Trad climber
SF, CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2008 - 09:38pm PT
|
Upon first read of your post, double cross came to mind. It's probably the ultimate sandbag.
"I was trying to find out for a friend who is a relatively inexperienced leader, who wants to go do wotws, and she'd be the only one leading."
I've only climbed WOTWS once, and that was in the middle of the night. If your friend is comfortable on 5.7 slab, then she will be fine and it will feel like a hike, not a climb. I don't remember any 5.7 moves. But, I have heard of 5.12 climbers getting freaked out on 5.6 slab. If your friend is not comfortable on slab, then I would not recommend it since there's not a lot of pro unless she likes being scared, in which case she should do it, since there is almost no chance of falling. You may want to verify this last point with others. Has anyone ever fallen on WOTWS?
Regarding ratings, JT, Tahquitz and Yos seem very similar, rating by the crux move.
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2008 - 01:56am PT
|
Unfortunately, people fall off WOTWS all the time and break their ankles. If they would just lie down against the rock they would stop sliding. Seems pretty silly to me.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
"ill crush everything in my flip flops and downgrade it. im just that good."
|
|
rich sims
Trad climber
co
|
|
I saw that guy cranking with a beer in his hand .
I am to beat to watch that guy climb.
Last five hundred miles snow and ice next trip I fly.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
Glad you made it home safely Rich, all we dealt wih was traffic.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
|
|
Crushing in Flip Flops True story:
Hanging around Bachar Cracker one afternoon, Sweeney floats it, couple others struggle, I barely pull it off having done it before.
Sweeney, now in flip flops, clambers back into the pit. Fondles the opening jam for a second. And without a word he hikes it like it was 5.6. In flip flops.
|
|
Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
Walk on the Wild Side, Sail Away, Double Cross, Headstone, Black Tide/Double Dip, Touch and Go, Mental Physics, Big Horn Mating Grotto, Trash Can Rock, Dappled Mare, Illusion Dweller, Thin Wall, Lazy Day, Loose Lady, Big Moe, White Lightning, Dairy Queen Wall, Mike's Books, Toe Jam, Bird of Fire, Popes Crack, The Eye, Clean and Jerk, O'Kelly's.............the rest of the Park is empty................(Joshua Tree is a lonely place).........
This is certainly true 95% of the time. It took four years of checking it out, but one Saturday we moseyed up to a totally deserted Double Dip and Black Tide. Black Tide was worth the wait.
And on a weekday, the park is your oyster. Whatever that means.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
navblk4:
Illusion Dweller 5.10(a) to 5.10(c) I agree Bachar says so.
Hah, if that boulder-problem crux was at the bottom instead of the top, we'd be calling Illusion Dweller 5.9.
|
|
Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
|
|
Just got back from a great trip down there. We did WOTWS, as well as Sail Away and some other classics. Before Thursday, we were able to walk up to the ones on our tick list no problem.
Walk was about right, I'd say. I led the first pitch and Cleo led the second. On TR, the second pitch was a walk up. I don't think I even looked at my feet as they hauled the rope up. Rock felt really sticky. On lead, I'm sure that it would've been more spicy.
Sail Away felt great, about right for 5.8. Lots of tape and blood in that crack though. Yuck!
Gotta laugh though. My purple guidebooks is 20 years old now and some of the climbs we looked at have been upgraded since then. How often does that happen?
One climb I did that felt much harder though was C.S. Special. .10b? Well, if you don't include the start, I guess. That bouldery start was the hardest thing I've ever done outdoors. Maybe I missed the hold that would make it easy. Either that or I need to lose the weight in order to crank a one handed crimper pullup. I ended up having to match my right foot onto a small ledge that my right hand was mantling while my left foot jammed into a space just barely large enough.
Eff - Eight was a gruntfest. Almost impossible for Cleo since she couldn't fit a fist jam into the upper part.
|
|
Heffey
Trad climber
Nashville, TN
|
|
Having climbed all over the US for going on thirty years it has been my distinct impression that in general, ratings are more sandbaggy in eastern areas where they couldnt accept 5.11 for a long time i.e. the Gunks, Seneca Rocks etc. These days I like to leave the guidebook at home, or just use the approach info (descent info is always a sandbag)and just climb what looks good...of course this approach has been hard on my rack.
|
|
Chris2
Trad climber
|
|
Everything hard in climbing is a 5.9! These foolish new numbers don’t make any sense. Mathematically a 5.10 is a much smaller number. Geez…
|
|
Heffey
Trad climber
Nashville, TN
|
|
Well I don't think either Don Wilson, Royal Robbins, or Chuck Wilts were much concerned with the mathamatical logic. More that 5 represents 5th class (free)climbing and the numbers after are progressively higher...uh....duh.
|
|
Chris2
Trad climber
|
|
No after 5.9 they are progressively lower...and duh? I hear that from my 14 year old niece when we talk on the phone?
|
|
Heffey
Trad climber
Nashville, TN
|
|
Well then you should understand the meaning there. Your reference to the "decimal" is cute and you made your point. Perhaps you would have an easier time getting your head around the Yosemite "DASH" system...5-10d
|
|
Chris2
Trad climber
|
|
So is a 5.10g harder or easier than a 5.11a?
|
|
Heffey
Trad climber
Nashville, TN
|
|
Quite. Harder than an 11a but easier than a 11d...that is if you can find one. Ever done one?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!