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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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In the Devil's Lake guide I always thought it was Jim Erickson's influence that was responsible for the appearance, amongst the major mass, the minor mass, and the 1st, 2nd,,,,,,8th buttress in the Devil's Doorway area, of the wonderfully named B-minor Mass.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Where is that route in your photo at the top of the page?
Don't tell me it's Tobin's Diehedral at Dome Rock from EC Joe's guide ...I should know that one...
So, somewhere in Washington state?
Index???
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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If i can remember that far back (25 yrs?), it should be Deadend Dihedral on the Grand Wall at Squamish
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Thanks Darryl,
That is sort of the quintessential 70s-ish mouthwatering shot.
The guide to northern Italy is from 1913
And the guide to Switzerland will very soon be 120 years old:
This map depicts the Mt Blanc Massif and the various aguilles:
And here we have the crown jewels of the Bernese Oberland:
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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Some obscure ones -
Clyde
El Picacho Del Diablo
Starr's Guide
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sibylle,
Good ones!
I wonder how many different guidebooks/instructionals La Siesta Press put out?
Not so many I am thinking...
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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Thanks Tarbuster!
Chessler has the second one, el Picacho del Diablo, for sale for $225 ....
Maybe I should find a safe place for my rare guidebooks!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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After cracking that Switzerland guide tonight, (I really have not looked at it that much),
It occurred to me it might best be put in a safe deposit box!
I mean; what a little jewel.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yes, the climb is Deadend Dihedral at Squamish. Quite distinctive shape.
Tar, my father has quite a number of Baedekers, which are great fun to look at.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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So a penchant for ladybug laiden guidebooks runs in the family Anders?
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Nice contributions to the thread, Tar!
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 05:12pm PT
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Yes, nice artwork in the Baedeker (guides made fun of by Thomas P. in V).
I have that same Baja guide, Sibylle.
From the late 60s
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 05:13pm PT
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From 1928
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Walt Fricke's 1971 guide to Rocky Mountain National Park was a eye-opener for me.
Apart from Longs Peak, Spearhead and Hallett, it seemed there were all these other
great faces with few or no routes.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Tarbuster:
For cleverness and sheer ingenuity of descriptive prose,
I've long appreciated Erickson's work here:
As far as I know, Rocky Heights was the origin of R and X grading. If that's
true, another claim to fame.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I wasn't aware of that Rocky Heights R/X rating institution Larry; interesting data point if so...
The next book that comes after Fricke's Rocky Mountain guide I find then best chronicled what you guys did with the open opportunities described. And which one is that?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Richard Rossiter’s guides, to my mind, really set the bar in terms of artifice and clarity.
(I believe he holds an M.A. in Fine Arts)
The cover of an earlier book, composed entirely of topo’s, (no written descriptions), published in 1985:
And from a subsequent work,
Boulder Climbs South and North, featuring many of the same topos:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Tarbuster:
The next book that comes after Fricke's Rocky Mountain guide I find then best
chronicled what you guys did with the open opportunities described. And
which one is that?
Here's another of those untold tales you couldn't tell anywhere but SuperTopo:
In Bernard Gillett's 2001 RMNP High Peaks Guide, pp. 127-128, he describes
a short but 3-star route named Rain Delay, 5.9+, on a small cliff near Spearhead.
I would never have noticed the route description, but something about Gillett's topo
caught my eye:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I couldn't figure out quite what until another day when I was paging through my
battered old copy of Fricke's 1971 guide. On the last page of that book, I discovered
that back in 1974, I had sketched the topo below.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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It seems that what Roger Briggs and I called the "East Meadows Wall," and
our 1974 route we named Apparently 2 Deceivers (5.8), correspond to
Gillett's "Cliff East of Spearhead" and his 1999 route Rain Delay (5.9+).
Roger and I rated everything we climbed that day 5.8. This included three
other short cracks farther right, which are also visible in Gillett's more
professional topo. Apparently in a rock and roll mood, we had named them
Teen Angel, Surfer Girl, Twist and Shout.
The cool thing about this story, I thought, was the coincidence of the topos.
Other cracks immediately right of 2 Deceivers, which Gillett estimates at
5.12, even show up on my topo -- although of course we didn't climb them.
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