List of lesser known classics in the sierra

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 82 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Oct 28, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
Doug,
Thanks, your story reminds me of a moonless ascent of the EB Whitney I did a few years ago with two non climbers sans dropping the headlamp.

You approached from the South didn't you? Lost is on my list.
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 28, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
No, actually, we came over Whitney-Russell Col. Most direct way to avoid the cattle trail. When we came over the Col there were well-worn contours heading toward the Fishhook Arete but only six sets of tracks heading down-canyon toward ...Lost. It was October, so only six people in an entire summer had gone down that valley. There is no better recommendation for a beautiful timberline valley than that.


A little further down there's an unclimbed wall on Mt Hale...in case anyone cares:


Looking north up that valley the morning after our snowy bivi

Brandon

Trad climber
Santa Maria, CA
Oct 28, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
Alpine,
Dave and I saw the spire too. If it weren't for the weather we would have liked to climb it. The name Barracuda came from the fish(head facing left) like feature of the dark rock on the face. The routes cut through it in the upper half of the photo.

mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Oct 28, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
What about that beautiful pile of choss out of Convict lake....Could it be the CA's Eiger?
Bad Climber

climber
Oct 29, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
Wow, the Sierras have so much to give. Climbers spend thousands of dollars, travel around the globe, and sitting here at home, a couple of days in, are walls to last a lifetime--multiple lifetimes. Amazing.

I guess it's a standard classic, but I've always wanted to do Twilight Pillar on Middle Palisade. That route looks bitchin'! And if you haven't done the south face of Clyde Minaret, go do. That ranks as one of my best all time Sierra climbs.

BAd
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Oct 29, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
I agree! The South Face of Clyde is wonderful. I didn't find any of the loose rock that I've heard is up there. Bruce Lella put up an 11c route to the right of it some years back. Still trying to squeeze the topo out of him...
rhyang

climber
SJC
Oct 29, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
I thought Twilight Pillar was on Norman Clyde ..
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
Oct 29, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
It looks like DR is dusting off some squirreled away beta on this thread. It will be interesting to see what comes of it. That Table Mountain N Ridge looks like a gem lying on the ground. Here’s hoping to see some trip reports. Keep it coming DR.
tallguy

Trad climber
eastside
Oct 29, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
I liked the Smokestack on Wheeler Crest.. not really classic sierra location, but super fun 5.9+ old school testpiece.

Picture peak is fun, get an idea of what 1967 5.9 was like too..

The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Oct 30, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
The Sierra - expedition worthy domestic alpinism.

Where is this beast? And what's going on with that wacky rock?
Cannon

Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
Oct 30, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
few people have heard of this one even though it is in the valley......a little known, well protected, easy to get to, no traffic route called..... Snake Dike
Cannon

Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
Oct 30, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
....... P.S. if this joke was already made.....i apologise i didnt actually read through the whole list before my sense of self amusment consumed me
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Oct 30, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
Doug - your photo of Amphitheater Lakes area:

Is this the same formation?
powderdan

Social climber
mammoth lakes
Oct 30, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
more time please
Bob Harrington

climber
Bishop, California
Oct 30, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
Alpine, that second picture is Mt. Goode and Trapezoid Peak, not Amphitheater Lake.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Nov 2, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
Climbing off the beaten path seems cool.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Nov 2, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
Here's some info on some FA's my friends did on Hithcock this year:

http://pullharder.org/2011/09/19/home-sweet-home-new-routes-on-mt-hitchcock/

1. Stoners on a train (III, 5.10) 2. Psycho Buttress (III, 5.10, c1)

Doug, those Amphitheater Lakes walls look spectacular!!

Maybe next summer...

 Luke
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Nov 2, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
WHAT?!?! No word of anyone having fun on the WEST side of the Palisades.....

3 stars for Mount Winchell's West Arete (IV 5.9)
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 2, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
Not as stout but still a classic: I bailed off of the NW Arete of Dragon Pk (5.8) late last Saturday after discovering that it is not a Grade II climb as advertised in Secor or Moynier & Fiddler (Really more of a solid III).

It was a great climb to where we bailed and the remainder of the ridge looked pretty cool - reminiscent of the northern section of Matthes Crest, only with some more loose stuff and a much higher position! The first 800 vertical ft has pretty clean and exposed cl. 3-4 scrambling with bits of 5th before you rope up for the towers. It seems like a good car-to-car climb for the summer months.






PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 2, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
Palisade Crest traverse (IV, 5.8) is also great . Lightning forced us off after Pk 2 of 12, but even with that sampling I think this is a lot better than the Thunderbolt to Sill traverse. This is more difficult, exposed, and has better rock. I need to go back and finish this one!


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