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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 28, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
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Doug,
Thanks, your story reminds me of a moonless ascent of the EB Whitney I did a few years ago with two non climbers sans dropping the headlamp.
You approached from the South didn't you? Lost is on my list.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 28, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
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No, actually, we came over Whitney-Russell Col. Most direct way to avoid the cattle trail. When we came over the Col there were well-worn contours heading toward the Fishhook Arete but only six sets of tracks heading down-canyon toward ...Lost. It was October, so only six people in an entire summer had gone down that valley. There is no better recommendation for a beautiful timberline valley than that.
A little further down there's an unclimbed wall on Mt Hale...in case anyone cares:
Looking north up that valley the morning after our snowy bivi
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Brandon
Trad climber
Santa Maria, CA
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Oct 28, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
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Alpine,
Dave and I saw the spire too. If it weren't for the weather we would have liked to climb it. The name Barracuda came from the fish(head facing left) like feature of the dark rock on the face. The routes cut through it in the upper half of the photo.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Oct 28, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
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What about that beautiful pile of choss out of Convict lake....Could it be the CA's Eiger?
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Bad Climber
climber
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Oct 29, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
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Wow, the Sierras have so much to give. Climbers spend thousands of dollars, travel around the globe, and sitting here at home, a couple of days in, are walls to last a lifetime--multiple lifetimes. Amazing.
I guess it's a standard classic, but I've always wanted to do Twilight Pillar on Middle Palisade. That route looks bitchin'! And if you haven't done the south face of Clyde Minaret, go do. That ranks as one of my best all time Sierra climbs.
BAd
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Oct 29, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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I agree! The South Face of Clyde is wonderful. I didn't find any of the loose rock that I've heard is up there. Bruce Lella put up an 11c route to the right of it some years back. Still trying to squeeze the topo out of him...
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Oct 29, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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I thought Twilight Pillar was on Norman Clyde ..
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krahmes
Social climber
Stumptown
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Oct 29, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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It looks like DR is dusting off some squirreled away beta on this thread. It will be interesting to see what comes of it. That Table Mountain N Ridge looks like a gem lying on the ground. Here’s hoping to see some trip reports. Keep it coming DR.
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tallguy
Trad climber
eastside
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Oct 29, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
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I liked the Smokestack on Wheeler Crest.. not really classic sierra location, but super fun 5.9+ old school testpiece.
Picture peak is fun, get an idea of what 1967 5.9 was like too..
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Oct 30, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
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The Sierra - expedition worthy domestic alpinism.
Where is this beast? And what's going on with that wacky rock?
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Cannon
Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
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Oct 30, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
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few people have heard of this one even though it is in the valley......a little known, well protected, easy to get to, no traffic route called..... Snake Dike
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Cannon
Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
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Oct 30, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
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....... P.S. if this joke was already made.....i apologise i didnt actually read through the whole list before my sense of self amusment consumed me
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Oct 30, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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Doug - your photo of Amphitheater Lakes area:
Is this the same formation?
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Oct 30, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
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more time please
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Oct 30, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
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Alpine, that second picture is Mt. Goode and Trapezoid Peak, not Amphitheater Lake.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Climbing off the beaten path seems cool.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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WHAT?!?! No word of anyone having fun on the WEST side of the Palisades.....
3 stars for Mount Winchell's West Arete (IV 5.9)
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Not as stout but still a classic: I bailed off of the NW Arete of Dragon Pk (5.8) late last Saturday after discovering that it is not a Grade II climb as advertised in Secor or Moynier & Fiddler (Really more of a solid III).
It was a great climb to where we bailed and the remainder of the ridge looked pretty cool - reminiscent of the northern section of Matthes Crest, only with some more loose stuff and a much higher position! The first 800 vertical ft has pretty clean and exposed cl. 3-4 scrambling with bits of 5th before you rope up for the towers. It seems like a good car-to-car climb for the summer months.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Palisade Crest traverse (IV, 5.8) is also great . Lightning forced us off after Pk 2 of 12, but even with that sampling I think this is a lot better than the Thunderbolt to Sill traverse. This is more difficult, exposed, and has better rock. I need to go back and finish this one!
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