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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:37am PT
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Only done popular classics so far, Dark Star , Run Ribbon, Venutian Blind, Swiss Arete, E But , E Face mt whitney, 3rd pillar, The cathedral Aguile 5.10 thing, Red Dihedral, And the "T" Domes ahh sssooooo dreamy, I think that is all but only 2 sierra seasons under my belt.
Aguile Extra? split Mtn??? what you got!!!
???
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Fungus Amongus
Big Wall climber
Single Cell
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Feb 25, 2005 - 03:44am PT
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Michael Minaret via Amphitheater Chute
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:57am PT
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ERRRR What????
Land of Little Rain??
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 04:01am PT
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Land Of Little Rain is on the S face of Lone Pine Peak, quick access for us So Cal Folks (seriously considering moving to SW Colorado)..
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 04:06am PT
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Well I haven't done it which is why I am prying, but it sounds as if it is a new age V 5.10c route that is fairly long and has bolts on the face and many continuious pitches of climbing !!
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10b4me
Trad climber
Walking into the MRB
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:45pm PT
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N buttress, Mt.Goode
N. Ridge Merriam Pk
SE arete of Humphreys
too many routes, too little time.
are you talking rock only, or ice routes too?
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2005 - 11:30pm PT
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Rock I recon
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:43pm PT
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Seems to me, the minute you get in the sierras it’s classic.
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akclimber
Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
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Feb 26, 2005 - 02:36am PT
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Any route without a name is classic in any mountains, including the Sierras, I reckon.
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JMC
Trad climber
So Cal
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Feb 26, 2005 - 11:29am PT
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Dude,
it's too early to be getting riled up about Sierra rock climbs - 4+ months until most are accessible. Thant being said, it's all I've been able to think about this last week; getting tired of running, working and studying. Summer needs to start...
OK, enough rant, here's some routes that you won't run into anyone on (Disclaimer - I have done NONE of these routes - either eyeballed them from another peak/route, or passed by them on a run.)
The Citadel - Edge of Time Arete (1-2 other routes on this formation). Long approach over Bishop Pass.
Mt Chamberlin - even longer approach via Whitney Portal or Cottonwood Lakes. Gaped at this 6-7 yrs ago on a run from Cottonwood to Onion Valley. Beautiful.
The Cleaver - Slog up a north drainage out of Whitney Portal. visible from Thor Peak (good climbing on Thor, by the way), and Mt. Carilllon. Little info on this route (1 line in Secor's bible).
West Side - lot of stuff in Sequoia, only been there once, though. Others are more qualified to spray.
S. Face of Lone Pine Peak - the home of "Land of Little Rain" and numerous other routes.
Mt Irvine - Buttress route, long. variable quality of rock.
Back to the lab (and I don't mean Chamonix),
John
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euphoria
Trad climber
Slippery Rock, PA
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Feb 28, 2005 - 10:23am PT
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Does anyone know where the Cyclorama Wall is?
There was some discussion about it a month or two ago....I'd never heard of it before and can't find any info on its location anywhere.
For what it's worth, Secor's guide says that the NW side of Shepherd's Crest is "perfect rock".... I always wanted to do it, but haven't yet. I don't think it gets climbed very often.
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DE
Mountain climber
Tustin, Calif.
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Feb 28, 2005 - 06:48pm PT
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Here is a great one most people have not done. The east but.of Mt. Carl Heller is awesome. The rating of class 3 might turn off the hotties but this route is as clean and exposed as many classic roped routes. You won't want to believe is is class 3 but in retrospect you'll say "dang, that was only class 3!" The downclimb is class 4 but only a short section and easier than the class 3. Those Sierra ratings can be pretty nebulous.
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Feb 28, 2005 - 07:01pm PT
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Ha, funny, I was just reading about Carl Heller in Secor the other day. Gonna put that on the list. The NW Ridge of Haeckel is about as much fun as I've ever had climbing. Call it scrambling if it makes you feel cool.
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jclimb
Trad climber
Durango, Co
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Feb 28, 2005 - 07:03pm PT
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i've been dreaming of the sierra lately. can't get it out of my mind. been pouring over my guides thinking nonstop about beautiful white granite and blue sierra skies. i'm done with winter and ready for summer!
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bobh
climber
Bishop, California
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Feb 28, 2005 - 10:56pm PT
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Most of that rock is chossy, and you'ld be surprised how much it rains.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 28, 2005 - 11:52pm PT
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>um have you ever heard of mt. star king? is that a lesser known >classic? my partner and i are going to do that this season, i >looked at the description, i'd never heard of it, it looks fun, >i'd bet there are a ton of good climbs out there that don't get a >lot of notice because of the sheer number of good climbs in the >area
We did Starr King last October. It was the highlight of my year. We did a traverse from the NE side to the SE Saddle. We left Mono Meadows trailhead just before dawn and were back at dusk.
The rock is marvelous, the climb is easy fifth. The views are stupendous. It was a really great day, great hike, cool friends, and fun climbing. Dave G. was with us. He soloed the entire traverse, including downclimbing to the SE Saddle.
Take some extra no. 2 camalots. Twin ropes worked out well for the rappel.
Good beta here:
http://angeleschapter.org/peaks/sps/archives/sps00191.htm
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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I did the far left route (can't remember the name) on the Ruby Wall a few years back and it's well worth doing. The rock is a bit friable but nothing to weird. Short approach, lots of fun arete type of climbing.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Harrington route on N. Face of Chamberlin, or the "Hot D@mn" variation to the left.
Planaria on Temple Crag
Polish Route on Incredible Hulk, continuing to the summit.
Hairline on Mt. Whitney.
Twin Cracks on East Face of the Turret.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2005 - 02:47pm PT
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Polish Route ????? is that the OW adn fistferever beautiful crack line on the hulk????????? Pat seems under the impression that it is a classic but he hasn't done it..
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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If Pat (Brennan) hasn't done it, it's not the Polish Route. We did it, together, sometime in the last century. Take an extra #4 Friend for one of the belays.
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