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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2016 - 12:29pm PT
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I had a pair of Scarpa Quest's for a long time...they were only fair in my book. Too technical/tight, and wore too quickly. Rubber was pretty good, though, while it lasted.
Lots of votes for the Scarpa Crux. Will check it out. How's the rubber...is it pretty climbable?
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Timmc
climber
BC
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I followed Hamish Fraser up the Rostrum around 1989. He wore Flyers, placed hardly any gear, and it took about 2 hours.
Those Squamish boys...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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WHATEVER fits your feet!
Amen, Fred! I've been happy with my Guide Tennies, which have held up well -- in contrast to my two previous pairs of old five tennies, which delaminated and/or wore out (I'm a slow learner).
If it's a big wall, though, I still use my Robbins Boots (aka Galibier "Yosemite"). I have two pairs, one purchased in 1969, and the other, one size smaller, in 1971. They've each been re-soled many times, the elastic above the heels of both have worn, and the rands are a bit ragged, but they still work. They're too heavy, of course, for approach shoes on shorter routes, though.
John
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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John
I still use my Robbins Boots I have always regretting giving mine away.........OUCH!!!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2016 - 02:34pm PT
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"WHATEVER fits your feet!"
To that end...
How is the fit on the Crux?
I'm a US Mens 12...that's usually a Euro 45.5...does the Crux remain pretty close to this?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I have scarpas, don't know the model? high top. Climb great up to 5.8. excelent for cracks and bit on the edgy side for slab but great rubber.
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Oct 14, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
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Apogee, I just picked up a pair of the Crux. I typically wear US 13/EU 46 or 47 in most shoes. I asked for the Euro size of 46 and they fit perfectly, however the tag inside the shoe equates that to US 12 (UK 11) which seems off. I would rely on the EU sizing if you are ordering them.
They fit my foot right out of the box, and seemed plenty comfortable and grippy on the couple of hikes I've done with them.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2016 - 06:37pm PT
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I saw a pair up close a week ago...a student was wearing them...they looked a little blocky (don't know how else to describe them). It's Vibram rubber, too...and they really climb ok?
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Oct 14, 2016 - 06:57pm PT
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They do look a little blocky, probably because they have a slightly thicker sole than the Guide Tennies that I had previously and a little narrower in cross section. I already appreciated the extra cushioning the other day rock hopping off the back of the Flatirons as I couldn't feel every point through the sole.
My TC Pros also have Vibram rubber, and they climb okay. Like I said, I need to log a few more climbs before I have an opinion on the Crux's rubber.
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
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Oct 14, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
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Nice looking route TRADMANCLIMBS, what is it?
I have similar Scarpas, except they're low cut and orange. Fit me perfectly and grip well. Seem to be holding up ok.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 08:22pm PT
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La Sportiva Explorers.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Oct 14, 2016 - 08:40pm PT
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Just getting ready to (sadly) replace my best feet friends, 5.10 guides for women. I have rehabilitated mine, but there is finally nothing left to pull together. I wish the new ones were Not purple....:(....but I will have to live with it. I so love the orange stitching and laces of the old shoes.
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clarkolator
climber
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Oct 15, 2016 - 08:37am PT
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I've always had good luck re-cycling my running shoes. After they lose their cushion they become my trail shoes, and after that garden shoes. They're light, have good friction, insert nicely into cracks, and don't cost a thing.
The only problem is that in the last few years manufacturers have gone to mesh material on the upper part of the shoe. In the Sierra the dirt is so fine it gets through the mesh. Does anyone out there know of a not-mesh upper track shoe I can buy?
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