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apogee
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 23, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
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Hey, all-
Sorry for raising another question about approach shoes, but I'm shopping around for a pair. After a few pairs of LaSportiva Boulders, I have found nothing that came close to climb-ability. I tried D-7's, and the rubber sucked, and resoled them with dot rubber, which was better but not as good as Boulders.
Looking around at current offerings, nothing looks very appealing. Many of you commented that the Cirque Pros were not great (especially in the cold), and I am forever suspicious of 5.10 because they have never seemed to be able to get the delam problem figured out.
I wear approach shoes a lot, especially guiding, and spend many days in them. I'm willing to sacrifice some of the foot-protection that comes with a thick midsole (i.e. D7's, Cirque Pro) for better climbing, though a bit of protection is nice for those long Sierra approaches and traverses.
Whaddya think?
Has anybody used the Scarpa Quest? Looks like a nice compromise b/w foot protection and climb-ability:
http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/23228/SCARPA-QUEST-/
Locker- I know you don't resole approach shoes anymore, but which ones seemed to take a resole the best?
Thanks, everybody.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 23, 2008 - 06:33pm PT
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perhaps consider this:
acopausa dot com /product.jsp?navigation=3&content=14
I'm betting it has the climbing performance you seek.
BTW - I'm basing this on design, not politics or points.
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Mar 23, 2008 - 06:56pm PT
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The new hightop Guide Tennies.
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onyourleft
Social climber
SmogAngeles
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Mar 23, 2008 - 07:06pm PT
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I'm a huge fan of the Vasque Catalyst. It is a mid-height lightweight hiker that has a lugged 5.10 Stealth rubber sole. I got mine at REI and they serve me well for the Sierras as well as other places that might require a sticky-rubber approach shoe.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Mar 23, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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Get a pair of Acopa Scramblers. They are comfortable as tennis shoes on the trail. Plus on rock the Scrambler sticks and edges almost as good as a climbing shoe. That is the reason that on minor climbs I don't even bother switching out of my Scramblers.
Plus they are fun to wear around town. I keep finding them pretty useful when I get inspired to climb one of the local brick buildings. I also love how it is taking me a while to wear them out.
There is only one downer with them... Only one issue I ever had with them and that is... Rock hopping across a stream in Scramblers is one big "no-no." The rubber soles gets pretty slick when wet.
Big Smiles,
Anastasia
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Mar 23, 2008 - 07:26pm PT
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Five Ten, they are the best mountain shoes I have ever owned. I am on my third pair. The second pair delaminated, but were worn out anyway. This pair is going strong, the Camp 4s.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 23, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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5.10 defacto standard on my feet.
I'm scared to go out anywhere without them ......
They stick on wet rock too.
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Mar 23, 2008 - 08:40pm PT
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Boreal Flyers
Patagonia Finns
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Mar 23, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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Werner...
You know there is a yin yang to everything...
5.10 approach shoes don't edge like climbing shoes. That is something the Scramblers can do very well.
Yes, 5.10 are good shoes but you must admit they are "an all around shoe." Now as the the old saying goes; jack of all trades master of none.
In comparison Scramblers are technical climbing shoes that are designed to be comfortable and durable enough for hiking. (Scramblers are perfect for tricky boulder fields like the approach to the bottom of Half Dome.) I won't wear them to hike all the trails of Yosemite, but... They do good for what they are designed to do: Get you through a rocky approach.
AF
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 23, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
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used to climb in Boreal Flyers all the time;
Rostrum top 5, Catchy onsight, etc.
The main thing really wrong w/ them has
been addressed in the Acopa Scrambler;
look at the profile of the shoe -
the way the sole comes up UNDER the toe,
not just joining at the tip.
someone knew what they were doing.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Mar 23, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
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Cirque pros fell apart pretty fast. I'm using Camp 4's and they are pretty awesome.
I would highly recommend Evolv, however. The Rex and Stryker are the two they make (don't forget about their bigwall boot, Maximus). I haven't used the Stryker but they got a good review on RC.com from a guy doing zod. I've used the Rex on everything from standing in aiders to Royal arches... crazy crazy good. Those things outlived cirque pros twice as long, and they are still rocking. The rubber isn't 5.10 rubber, but the low toe profile makes it a good choice for long easy routes.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Mar 24, 2008 - 12:11am PT
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I used Five Ten Mtn Masters for while but while I liked their performance, they'd fall apart too easily. WAY too easily. That company's quality control is non-existant.
I picked up a pair of Kathmandu approach shoes in Auckland, NZ in fall '06 and LOVE them. Sturdy as hell with a great virbram well protected sole and toe section. Can get up anything in 'em. I think my model is discontinued now but if you want to check out their current product, Kathmandu makes quality stuff (and remember the prices are in New Zealand dollars, not US so don't get sticker shock). Better than any other approach shoe I've owned, in regards to performance and quality.
http://www.kathmandu.co.nz/
I also picked up a pair of Montrail approach shoes on super-sale after Xmas at A-16 and have been pretty happy with them so far. They also have a great, solid vibram sole with a pretty well protected rubber toe. Used them for long climbing approaches & hiking as well as aid climbing this winter/spring. Also great in scree and talus. They're solid and well made. Just saw them on sale one day, tried them on and liked how they felt and and the've turned out to be a great shoe. Tried to find 'em online to link but I think they were a discontinued model (which if so is a shame, they're burly shoes).
I guess my point is, try brands you'd never thought to try and you might be shocked to find some great shoe you really like. Think outside the FiveTen/La Sportiva box and you might find a great shoe you never expected.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 24, 2008 - 12:30am PT
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Shameless plug again...sorry! If you like the old Flyers check these out.
acopausa dot com /product.jsp?navigation=3&content=14
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 24, 2008 - 12:32am PT
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I'm usually hard on shoes, really hard...
I have had Sportiva Boulders and liked them, but beat them to death. I currently use the 5.10 Guide and I'm pretty happy with them. Not sure I'd want to do something require a lot of sensitivity, but they seem to be staying together and keeping me happy on approaches.
I also wear them hiking and backpacking...
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Mar 24, 2008 - 12:52am PT
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JB, those look awesome. The old flyers climbed well. You can still find em online. Boreal still has some for cheap but they wont ship to the US. There is also a new Boreal flyer that is being sold by mtn tools that looks good for walls.
I was just about to order some new shoes, and will check out the acopas. I have spectres and love em. Thanks...
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apogee
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2008 - 09:28pm PT
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I will continue to be avoiding 5.10, but the Acopa Scramblers look interesting. They look like they have minimal midsole, which may make for good climbing, but just might shred the feet on long Sierra ridge traverse approaches. Anyone have any experience with the Scramblers on such alpine adventures?
No comments/experience with the Scarpa Quest...?
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Mar 24, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
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I did fine with them on a seven mile hike into the Sespe.
I think they are pretty durable kickers.
Why don't you Email Bachar about it? He is the real expert...
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Mar 24, 2008 - 09:35pm PT
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Man I miss my old fire flyers, I'll have to get a pair of those scramblers.
I also had a pair of the 5 tennies, and they just weren't anywhere as good as the flyers.
I can't see wanting an approach shoe that performs as well as a climbing boot, as it will have to give up some walking comfort to perform as well or nearly as well as a climbing shoe.
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Mar 24, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
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Do those Scramblers come in less-bowling-shoe-like colors, for those a little more into the whole "blending in" vibe?
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Mar 24, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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If you aren't going through snow...
Keen Newport H2s.
http://www.keenfootwear.com/product_detail.aspx?sku=110230
Really good rubber. Had mine for about 5 years now. Way more comfortable than regular sandals and protects your toes. Not leather, so getting them wet is ok, too.
In the right size crack they are really sweet. On low angle slab they work ok.
Most approach shoes I have tried are too tight to be used as approach shoes, or they were useless for climbing. But I only tried about 3 kinds before this.
The one negative. Stones can get between your foot and the sole. But they are easy to clear out. If you are going to be wandering around where cactus are an issue... I have used them there, but you might want solid sided stuff if you weren't going to pay attention to where you were putting your feet.
I wear them Canadian Style (with socks).
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