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adventurous one
Trad climber
reno nev.
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Apr 15, 2008 - 01:53am PT
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Texplorer-
Curious where that Celtic Cracks route is. Are there more 1000' moderate trad routes like that nearby? Nice photos and nice looking rock that perked my interest. Thanks
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Reno
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Apr 15, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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Celtic Cracks is a good one. It is in the new redrock guidebook but is rated a little harder than it should be (my fault). It is located in first creek. You can also check it out on the mountainproject.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Apr 15, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
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I've had the good luck to put a few good routes up with good partners. A couple that I am really proud of are 'Loose Lady' and 'EBGBs' in Josh, and then Kris Solem and Guy Keesee and I put up a wonderful, if a bit hard, thin face problem up at Courtwright called 'The Gold Standard'.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Apr 15, 2008 - 01:58pm PT
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most scary/favorite FA: Burning Down the House with Steve Schneider in 1984 on Fairview. this was my first multi pitch fa and one where the drill came out only as a last resort. yet to have a second ascent?
Fav hard FA? Electric Africa in meadows, General Dynamics @ the base of the nose and Dunce Cap on Cap rock...
Fav sport FA- Time for Living @ the Potrero Chico. This was the first route to the top of the outrage wall, fun steep 6 pitch 5.13-- ground up and steep!!!!
ks
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Apr 17, 2008 - 12:53am PT
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Bird of Prey is on the southeast face of the Warlock, at The Needles. It tops out with The S crack route for the last couple of pitches. Here's what the 5.10 chimney looks like..
FA:Mike Flood, Rob Brown, 1992.
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Oakley
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 17, 2008 - 05:34am PT
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Chiloe - what/where is that 'most cosmic' route??? That is one fantastic looking line!
And Wallman, Clod Tower and ginger cracks were both FA by the same two guys, one of which is my pops. When he wakes up tomorrow, I'll ask him how he'd compare the two!
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Doug Buchanan
Trad climber
Fairbanks Alaska
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Apr 17, 2008 - 06:32am PT
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The one I most consistently denied.
Is it possible to identify a better one?
Doug
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Apr 17, 2008 - 08:29am PT
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great photo, Rincon, you can feel that climber working the chimney!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 17, 2008 - 09:20am PT
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A humble little offering out in a remote and "undisclosed" patch of desert. Only 350 ft tall, only 5.9+, but that one has layers of meaning stacked on layers of meaning inside of me, for "undisclosed" reasons...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Apr 17, 2008 - 10:26am PT
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Hi there Oakley, welcome to the Taco. Lots of mountain-adventure stories here, hidden amongst the noise.
Chiloe - what/where is that 'most cosmic' route??? That is one fantastic looking line!
Hoho, Joe & I thought so too. Jerry invited me to write up the story of our ascent for his new RR guidebook (p.152).
Another photo, from the belay at the end of that same pitch.
Morning day 3, big smiles 'cause we knew we were gonna make it.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Apr 17, 2008 - 10:57am PT
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Of my four new FA lines on this spire, one in particular would just barely surpass the others.
Iron Man III 5.10 600' goes up the 60m dihedral (5.9-) left of the lower face, then follows a 55m hand-crack (5.10) up the center face, and tops out 60m later (5.7+) at around 11,000'. Very fun and awaiting a second ascent.
Starting up the Iron Man Crack. (bad scan, sorry)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Apr 17, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
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Hey Rincon, Good one there in The Needles. I'm all over that thing this summer...
Speaking of Rincon, how about this one:
That would be Rincon, at The Rincon.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Apr 17, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
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That's a good one too Kris. You, Mike Flood and I had a blast doing that one!
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Oakley
Trad climber
CA
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Chiloe - sorry so late in the reply! (was out at Jtree...)
I dig the day 3 picture. They sure made classy Glasses frames back then, heehee. Gotta check out p.152...
:)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Hi Oakley, how's the project?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!