Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 11, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
|
We've talked about those "worst FA" POS climbs.
On the flip side, what was the FA you are most proud of, the best climb you've established?
So far?
Brutus
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
Mar 11, 2008 - 11:33pm PT
|
so far, hard to say, maybe the next one.
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2008 - 12:10am PT
|
I'd think Lucille or JCA's Wide World of Sport would be right up there in the list!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 12:11am PT
|
Those are definitely in there, Brutus, but I'm not done yet.
-Okay I lean toward Lucille-
|
|
Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 12:16am PT
|
Hard to choose...
Best big wall FA In the Niche of Time/Tehipite Dome,Kings Canyon
Best multi-pitch FA Voodo Chile'/ Voodoo Dome, Needles
Best shorty FA Shattered Soles/ Ghetto Wall, Calaveras Dome
Two pitches come to mind when I think of FAs and the best parts of the route.
Second pitch of Finders Keepers/ Hidden Wall, Calaveras Dome
Pitch 10 or 11 (I need to look) of Tehipite Dome Route. this is probably the nicest 200 feet of rock you could lay your hands on. It was like climbing up a streak of pure gold. EC will probably agree if he can still remember if being out there.
also were a couple at Lamont Pinnacles that really stood out, but then everything out there is good.
Digitally Remastered
"V"
|
|
Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 12:21am PT
|
Wide World of Sports looks crazy. I did a route out there with Leversee and Cosgrove called "50 Pounds of Crack". That whole cliff is great. Has anyone else done much out there. It was still brand new when I went there. I think the route we did was only the second one. I imagine that a bunch of plums were picked from that place.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 12:25am PT
|
Details on that one Gobie? some of my homies, after all...
I think there are still trees full of plums in that particular orchard...
-build trails through the p-oak, newcomers, please; i'll make it worth your while, more or less.
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2008 - 12:38am PT
|
Yup Dingus, that woulda been one of mine too...
If we coulda made it back there in time! :)
still gotta free it.
Edited my first post to add "so far"!
|
|
Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 12:49am PT
|
The details are vague. I do remember having a massive tooth ache. We drove just about to the top. No bushwacking involved. We rapped down to the base directly above the route. Richard is a climbing machine. When he climbs he literally attacks teh rock. The first couple of pitches consisted of corners that were really clean 5.10ish. The crux of the route was this left facing corner/roof that had to be climbed out and over. I think Scott was the only one who actually freed the thing first shot. The crux was probably mid 11s. I do remember looking to the left and seeing a bunch more climbs. The only place that I have ever seen a wall with that many lines to be done that close to the car was out at Hetch Hetchy. I never could figure out why people congregate at one spot when there are so many climbs to do in places as spectacular as the ones listed in these post.
What is Leversee up to these days?
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 01:46am PT
|
Hard to beat a free route on El Cap...even if it was on the shoulder.
Some wonderful, but hard, face climbing up discontinious cracks to
an incredible featured face above. It was pure pleasure to help out on that.
The first 5 pitches, at least. I couldn't tear myself away from the
City of Rocks to come back for the final push to the top.
While I don't think I'll ever free the whole thing, it'd be great
to go back and revisit those sweet pitches.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 02:03am PT
|
I'm with Jaybro - the next one...
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 09:55am PT
|
"The Devil's Club", it was called the most important climb in the North Cascades in 50 years at the time by the pre-eminent North Cascades historian.
The other one was The John Galt Line at Smith - Alan Watts told me he started climbing again because of that climb.
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 11:25am PT
|
I've only done 5 or so knowingly, but I'd have to say Separation Anxiety on Fairview Dome in 2002. The start is a giant corner. The bulk of the climb is a giant dike that anyone who's looked at Fairview has seen, or who has climbed through if they have done a route on Fairview. The ending is one of two classics: Rosanne or Great Pumpkin. Its a huge route and we did it in the most rewarding style possible in my opinion. Ground up and over. Always rapelling from our far point and climbing whatever route would get us to that point the next day. We both faced some demons for sure, took some mega-penji- falls and got through. Once we put it up we went back and did it start to finish in a day. 6 days total over 1 1/2 weeks. Some of the best adventure I've had with one of my best friends. We were closer after doing that route. Its also opened up some great link=up possibilities. Most noteworthy being PEE to beautiful crux pitches of Sep Anx to Heart of Stone from the corner up.
Bob J.
|
|
vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 11:35am PT
|
The Disciple- a beautiful 600' crack system sitting 30 yards to the left of Crimson Chrysalis that no one ever bothered to climb. We meant to climb the Clod Tower (not the Cloud Tower), which is the lefthand of the two systems there, but the squeeze chimney up on the right looked awesome so we checked it out. It led to some amazing climbing and a beautiful top out....really great day out!
Another favorite is Birthday Party on the community pillar- on the FA it was kind of a POS for the start and finish. We found alternate (and more direct) first and last pitches and its a beautiful climb now....
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 11:45am PT
|
Gob, Richard told me about some route that cosgrove bear huged or something and they (you?) named the pitch after a waitress, same route?
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 01:39pm PT
|
Most cosmic:
Most scary:
Racing the nightfall:
Racing the storm:
Looking back, so much was about the people, not just the cliffs.
|
|
WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
|
Vegas Trad Guy - hey - I am interested in more info about the two routes you mention. Are The Disciple or Clod Tower in any of the new guide books? Sounds like they both come recommended? How do they compare to Ginger Cracks?
Wallman
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 02:48pm PT
|
An unreported solo FA in the early 80's way back in the Wonderland of Josh that my buddies and I called "The Festival of Ants." Me, Bob Cox and Bob Critchfield. Five.easy, but super fun and in an amazing setting that you only get way back in there. I couldn't find it now if my life depended on it.
|
|
Gobie
Trad climber
Northern, Ca.
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
|
Thats the route. I never saw anything in print as to what the name was. I do remember clowning Cos about some waitress he was in love with some where. The fifty pounds of crack line came from an Oprah Winfrey joke. I guess the name from the waitress thing stuck. I cant remember what it was now. Does any one know what Richard is up to these days? How about info on some more lines out at.....Is that place still top secret or has it popped.
|
|
GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
|
|
Mar 12, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
|
chiloe said: Looking back, so much was about the people, not just the cliffs.
Definitely. On that note, one of the top ones for me would have to be Vee Formation - on that amazing day with you, Scary Larry, VTG, Julia, and Joe.
But there are others that contend. It's too hard to decide, but it's awfully fun to think back on them!
So thanks for that.
GO
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|