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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Beautiful big walls are like beautiful women-
Different ones have different ethics about being nailed.
and they can be fickle about it too. First it's ok to nail one until one day somebody makes an honest clean wall out of them, and then they don't want to be nailed by everybody any more.
But others only like to go clean with the really bold guys and but the rest of the guys still nail em cause they aren't good church boys.
Now if they've been nailed enough, they might go for free, and then they act like they don't want to be nailed anymore. They pretend that the nailing that made them what they are today was a bad thing.
but if they haven't been nailed enough, or if they've been been drilled instead of nailed, they might be tough to get for free. They might have to be nailed or drilled in different parts if guys want them free.
So we sort of know the rules: no means no, except when it means yes. Virgin walls are supposed to wait until they are ready to go in a clean way but some guys get too excited and nail them anyway.
It's a complicated world these days. Back in the day, you just nailed em and it was a long time before the next guy got to nail em, but now it's a big orgy of guys and gals doing it all over the place, all the time. There's the benefits of Friends and some folks still don't use enough protection.
Even though many believe that they only want it free, they get flack for doing it doggy style. They for a set of jugs after the same tired pickup lines.
Morality, politics, it's all there. Some guys get aliens to do their toughest jobs and then others say the folks shouldn't use them.
God help us
Karl
Edit
Some idiots have suggested that there is sexual innuendo contained in the post above. If I intended on doing such a thing, there would have been jokes about Hookers and Heads
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Damn Karl...you got me laughing up a lung here....
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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This is an oldie, but a goodie:
Why Walls are Better than Women
By Wally Barker
1 Walls will f*#k you in every imaginable way.
2 There are easy walls everywhere.
3 It's pretty easy to find Walls that really suck.
4 After you do a new wall, it's acceptable to tell your parents.
5 When you're on top of a wall, it's OK to take a dump.
6 You can do walls even if your not hard.
7 You can do walls less than 16 year old and not go jail.
8 You can share a wall with your friends.
9 You can do more than one wall in a day and not feel guilty.
10 Most walls can be done without raincoats.
11 If things get tough, you can always just nail a wall.
12 You can do a wall in public.
13 If you're persistent, easy walls always will go down.
14 Doing 3 walls in a day is something to brag about.
15 Your wall will always wait patiently for you.
16 You don't have to get cleaned up to do a wall.
17 A wall doesn't care when you come.
18 You can enjoy walls all month long.
19 Walls don't get jealous when you do another wall
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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holes are holes.
For aid climbers NOT to carry a complete arsenal to avoid drilling is poor style since many of these modern clean pieces have been available for nearly 20 years.
For aspiring free climbers to taint existing routes with bolts is flawed. Pete's photo is typical of what I have seen as a trend for the past 20 years. Few want to run things out.
...but I found the climbing world out of wack 10 years ago when I abandon my treatise.
I will only read the fun threads from here on out
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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FYI, I talked to Tommy a week ago last Sunday and he said he pulled his lines. He says he needs to get stronger.
-Justin
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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OK.... seems that last post says it all! Hope to see him back up there soon...
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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"Climbing into the Black Arch, with the fearsome Wings Of Steel slab beneath. Note the new bolts which I have shamelessly clipped."
" 'Unfortunately I had no way to properly remove the bolts", sooo I clipped em all instead
"I think knott."
Hmmm. I think so.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Tommy pulled his lines!? Now where I am supposed to mini-traxion- The Cookie?
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JP
Trad climber
Quebec
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Feb 12, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
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Aid Climbing SUCKS ANYWAY!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 12, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
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interesting, do you think Tommy pulled them in response to posts?
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Scrunch
Trad climber
Provo, Ut
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Feb 13, 2008 - 03:49am PT
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There is a popular 5.7 free climb here that is bolted. It goes safe on gear, maybe 10 feet at most between placements. I've clipped the bolts, I've also lead it on gear.
I have no intention to add bolts to an established line. Nor will I remove bolts in situ. I won't nail where a line commonly goes clean, nor will I decry others for the same. I see a bolt I think is unnecessary, I don't clip it. If I'm too scared to continue with the gear (bolts, pins or clean) that is available, I go home and either grow a bigger sack or find something else to occupy my time.
What it comes down to is the reality we live in is fluid and dynamic Things will change, in a sense things must change because stasis is a vacuum. Other will add bolts, chop bolts, pound pins on clean lines, do easy nailing lines clean at a high level, free things I can't dream of free and aid thing I free easily. I'm personally way to lazy to be responsible for change, and I like messing with reality as much as possible.
Climbing is like life: It's a game, the rules of which we make up as we go along. The only possible reason for playing is because you want too.
I have this very comforting mental image of calvin saying "I win because I freed you aid line" and Hobbes replying "But you're climbing in the freeing is bad zone, so you have to aid three sportclimbs"
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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May 28, 2008 - 07:34pm PT
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“The Hubers have replaced old bolts with new ones, but so far as I am aware have never added any bolts to the aid routes they have freed.”
Pete, you must mean aid routes that are in the guidebook. I removed two Huber bolts to the left of Zodiac pitch 5 in 2004. The Hubers had abandoned this variation and opted for another one to the right of Zodiac. These bolts were in fact on Klaus’ project Abstract Expressionist. Maybe your “bros” didn’t do enough homework… or maybe they didn’t see the fixed head that was right below the lower bolt…
Oh, wait… my mistake!!! They never freed Abstract!
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