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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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May 16, 2008 - 05:58pm PT
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Like Nazarus this needs to be brought back to life
I need more
Who helped you get here?
murf
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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May 16, 2008 - 07:06pm PT
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Tom Brassell.
He had this new goldline attached to his new harness, he pulled it tight which created this huge bulge in the croachtoral area, and said "Is this studley, or what?"
that defined the sport, that five seconds in my life.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 16, 2008 - 10:07pm PT
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How did so many miss this Thread? Should be hundreds of posts. I mean you all climb don't you? It's a super topic.
Short List of Three:
First: Dan Leichtfuss
Know those family vacation photos of the Grand Canyon. Everyone is on the edge except one kid that's 10 feet in and posing at a 90 degree angle AWAY from the edge? That was me as a kid.
I was so afraid of heights I couldn't even drive in the mountains. Unacceptable to Dan. Thank God he had a will stronger than mine, tricked me into going climbing one day and would not let me off the rope 'til I had topped out. He challenged me enough that I finally lost nearly all my fear of heights. If you knew me back then you would know what a saint he was.
Second: Maria Cranor
First and only woman I trusted enough to climb with. Of course I would have climbed with Mari G., she was the only other gal way back I knew that I had complete confidence in, but she was light years beyond me. So was Maria, but she was part of our social network and she was so able to instill confidence it was incredible. Maria is still one of the most incredible inhabitants of this planet I know. Maria took me on my first two climbs at Josh. Maria God Bless you always for all you have done for our family!
Third: Ed Sampson
We were on a multi pitch climb on a shortish wall. My first wall with no ledges, cracks, generous nubs or anything to make me feel "safe"... meaning someting that sticks out that you can relate to....just wall.
Daryl Nakahira led, then came Dan, then me and finally Ed. Well after the first pitch Ed climbed up to where I was hanging on an old single bolt anchor. I said, "Ed if you lower me off I'll buy you a brand new rope." I guess you could say I was freaked and trying to think of the best bribe possible for a young, poor climber. I had no idea of how much a rope cost, but if I had to get a second job I would.
You see, while Ed was climbing up to me I was staring that old bolt down and asking it some serious quesions. "How old are you? Who placed you? Do you know I have 4 young children at home? Gasp!! Did you just move abit" ? By the time Ed got to me the bolt and I were in major dialogue.
QUESTION: Does this ever happen to you testosterone climbers?
Anyway, Ed just laughed at me. He said, "you'll enjoy it". I did and when I topped out it was one of the most incredible feelings in my life.
Thanks gang of three for the memories.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 16, 2008 - 11:40pm PT
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Interesting short list, Lynne. I have climbed and hung out with both Maria and big Ed; Times, events, and conversations I will never forget. Couldn't ask for better people to coexist with. I Never knew Dan, but based on what you said, sounds like my loss.
cheers
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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May 16, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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Laurie Skreslet started it all for me, eh.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 17, 2008 - 01:13am PT
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Jaybro, Good evening! You always have the nicest things to say. Getting ready for a big wedding bash tomorrow in La Jolla. Old family friend getting married. Just had to take a break for my ST fix. Gute Nacht! LRL PS Dan was a righteous Dude. Married when I was 19. He taught me a ton of stuff about living. Life goes on and God is good.
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Sir Donald
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 17, 2008 - 09:25am PT
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I remember spring quarter 1986 at the University of Utah, I had signed up for the basic climbing course through the Outdoor Ed department. Went to the first class and Doug Heinreich and Conrad Anker were the instructors, with Seth Shaw and Drew Bedford as assistants. I didn't know anything about these guys, and all I knew about clinbing was from a trip up the Exum Direct on the Grand that previous summer - my first real climbing. These four - all world class climbers then - but not yet uber famous as they would become within 5 years - they all put their heads together and decided the entire class was going to be made up of a week in the desert, camping climbing and partying! All for 2 college credits! We hit Zion, St. George, and Snow canyon. They taught us anchors, placing pro, catching falls, and proper fireside party techniques. I went on for years to climb with them and see them regularly in the canyons of SLC and in the CofRocks - but I'll never forget the excitement and energy they all gave us showing a group of newbies what climbing was all about. RIP Seth - you were one of a kind, and one of the best.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 17, 2008 - 09:32am PT
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now that's, a faculty.
edit;
And a curriculum!
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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May 17, 2008 - 10:53am PT
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It might be only on an early Saturday morning that I can consider those who influenced me, as a climber, not just positively... but in some way more than just that.
1. Scott Decapio, who climbed ice faster than anyone I had ever witnessed. Like it was NO BIG DEAL. And then, when the going got weird, he could switch into slow-twitch mode, lock off, dig deep, and get up funky, technical, stretchy, and R/X. And then he'd give me the plum pitch to lead, something hard and/or scary but within my abilities. Never met a nicer guy.
2. Chad Lewis, my oldest friend, now a dad and tree climber in South Carolina. He showed me how to drink. He showed me how to drink too much. He set a good example of philandering, tail-chasing, and otherwise inappropriate appreciation for women. He also showed me that we can be very weak sometimes, scratch the bottom with our toenails, circle the drain, and it's really just providence that we float back up.
3. Hans Saari, who died in 2001.
4. Jeff Long, whose essay 'Running Stairs' confirmed for me, then in High School, that this ridiculous activity was not just sport, but was attached umbilically to something else in my spirit, be it for good or not.
5. Ace Kvale, who allowed me to convince him that he should belay me up an unknown route. And a lot more.
6. Dana Drummond, who is blessed to have a natural talent that matches his motivation. Wow.
7. All those smart clients who "got it."
8. Jim Hurst, that hula-hooping skinny nutcase from southwest Colorado.
9. Kelly Cordes, who showed me that I was not salty enough for the ocean of real big bad voodoo alpine climbing.
That's it for now. Too many characters to list, but these have shed some influence, both good and bad.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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May 17, 2008 - 10:55am PT
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This is a really cool thread and has made me think alot about who has influenced me in my climbing. The big problem like alot of you is to narrow it down to just 10. Though I like the honorable mention catagory though, I am going to break it down to people that directly influenced me and then indirectly.
1st and foremost Rick Lovelace: He basically got alot of us started climbing from our Tahoe clan. Motivated our first trip to the valley (while still in high school) that open our eyes to the big stuff. He mentored me into the wall climber I am today. He showed how it was possible to hang it all out there on the line and still get back to the car. Thanks Rick!!
Kurt Smith (A.K.A. the Kid): His sprit of adventure and motivation is infectious. The Kids world class talent as a climber was always and still is a pleasure to witness.
Ken Ariza (A.K.A. dirtykenny): Showed me how to live off of pennies a day and how to work the system in the valley. Kenny made me believe in myself and showed me how to push myself to be a better climber.
Dave and Mike Hatchett: Those guys were (and still are) allways ready to go climbing even if it is just bouldering.
Mike Paul (A.K.A. Watusie): What can I say about mike? Pure talent at everything he does. He showed me Jtree like only few people can.
Muggs Stump: I had the pleasure of spending time and climbing with Muggs one winter in Josh. He showed me how to take the sharp end of the rope to a new level. "why top rope it when you can lead it"
Erik Eriksson (A.K.A. E): The most under rated talent in the climbing world. Erik is a climber to the CORE! He climbs at a world class level in every discipline of the sport. A true pleasure to share a rope with this guy either on the stone or ice.
Steve Muse (A.K.A. museman) The guy can not be beat down. His leggs don't work and he is still motivated to get up there. More determination than I am sure I would have in his position.
Steve Gerberding: Just a flat out great guy and a true badass. How could the Mayor of El Cap not leave an impact on anybody that climbs on the big stone.
And now for those that indirectly influenced me.
Everybody in the Yosemite Climber book, The Bird, Ammon, Ivo, Shipply, Fosberg, Werner, Jeff Lowe, Robbins, Chouinard, Harding, Duece, Bachar, Long, Erik Kohl, Levy, Kauk, Waren Hollinger, Jim Erdman
This list could go on for a long while but you get the point.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 17, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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Wow!!!!!
Talk about inspiration. What a list.
Well, for mine, and in no particular order--they've all
been great influences, some no longer with us, unfortunately.
Here goes:
Tom Hornbein
Ned Gillette
Warren Harding
John Stannard
Howard Doyle
Bob Norris
Jim Nigro
Dave Rearick
Yvon Chouinard
Layton Kor
Royal Robbins
John Stannard
Eric Shipton
Mooch--You named Herb Laeger--I didn't get to hang
around Herb that much, just some great times at Seneca
Rocks in the early 70's. What a great guy, though!
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Sir Donald
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 17, 2008 - 12:44pm PT
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I have a great mid 80's years Mugs Stump story from when he was living in SLC. He was bouldering alone at the main gate boulders and he asked if I wanted a spot. I was a complete noobie, with Fire Cats on and a HUGE chalk bag. We climbed all day, and he gave me his phone # and told me anytime - give him a call. He then called me and ended up selling me some slung hexes and slung Chouinard nuts for super cheap. I never got a chance to rope up with him though, but I follwed his incredible adventures all the way into the crevasse that sad sad day. It was a dark day for American mountaineering when Mugs passed, but he left us all with incredible memories and stories to tell.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 18, 2008 - 01:36am PT
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This is a cool thread! Keep the righteous memories going. lrl
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Dogtown Climber
Trad climber
The Idyllwild City dump
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May 18, 2008 - 01:58am PT
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Mark Smith My old Partner And still good freind. Hey, Mark F--k off your at the top of the list A--hole.
Darrell Hensel. Best climber I ever seen (ever)
Doug Robinson Because he's hard not to like.
Tobin Sorenson Because he was nuts. (peace)
John Long Because he put up campgirls which I took my longest fall on to date.Thanks John!
Tom Frost Because he just sent me sixty bucks.
JB Because he's JB
And The boys from the hood.
Why?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 18, 2008 - 08:07am PT
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Jud Thurston, he got me started Ice climbing and taught me the post climbing bender..
Charlie Gray, taught me how to lead rock and showed me the way of the road trip...
JB for inspireing me to solo.
All those crazy dudes in the Black Hills who put up all those climbs in the Needles and inspired me to drill on the lead.
Alex Spencer for dragging me up all those towers and showing me the way of the Desert..
Alden Pellet for dragging me up Le Promanade and letting me in on the secret of the big 5+ routs at the lake.. You own this thing dude!!
Isa Oehry for constantly getting the rope up the hard stuff and all those special times on the rocks, in the Vanni and the grand caynon etc....., berg heil.
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Sir Donald
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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May 18, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
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One more name drop for back in the day. I had taken an easy - filler class to get 4 credit hours at the University of Utah back in the early 90's, and first day - sitting next to me was Dale Goddard - AKA - Skeletor. The class was Acting 101 - a lib ed filler, and I was thinkin I was gonna be bored outa my mind - spring days - hot SLC temps - perfect climbin' weather. Right away - Dale asks if I was a climber - as my hands were completely covered in gobbies from a weekend spent jamming poorly in Zion - and we hit it off. Turns out he was not even registered at the UofU - he was just sitting in I think to get some kinda acting experience for god knows what reason - I think it was for a climbing movie. We swapped stories each class - paying no attention, till one day he stopped coming - moved on to better things -or - learned to act I guess!
At the time - I remember I was thin and fit - but Dale was truly - freaky - scary thin - wheat germ, Diet Coke and power bars - is all I think. Where bouts is Skeletor these days?
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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May 18, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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Mark Twight
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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May 18, 2008 - 10:21pm PT
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Seeing all these famous climbers reminds me how I was never really lucky to hook up with a top climber when I was young. We were from Modesto and a guy named Stu Polack and I started climbing basically on our own. He was an eagle scout and knew some rope work and maybe had a few months on me. Anyway we basically climbed together for many years and learned via the school of hard knocks I guess. We climbed many hard routes together over the years, and some in the early days we were lucky to not get killed on. Coming from Modesto I guess Robbins was an influence, Stu worked at his shop. I would put Bruce Carson into this boat as well. I climbed with a New Zealander named Bill Denz and learned from him that his reckless abandament would probably get me killed some day, so I guess he was important as well. Kelly Rich aka Kman was a student of mine in the seventies and we had a lot of fun. Later I climbed a fair amount with a guy named Don Synder and we were about the same level and did some good routes. Finally I met a guy named John Black who had read every book on climbing but had never really climbed. We climbed every weekend for several years. It was a symbiotic relationship. I would take him up routes like EB of Middle or something and he would belay me on anything I wanted. We would go do things like Kaukulator or the Enduro pitch or laps on BBalls. He was a good friend and we did who knows how many pitches together.
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jonstark
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Nov 16, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
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Warren Hollinger... Asshat convinced me that I could climb walls.
Rob Brown... Asshat decided he wanted to climb walls too and be my partner at it.
Donie O'Sullivan... Irish E7 climber who pushed me hard towards Popeye forearms and clean ethics.
Bob Kamps... Modest, friendly, encouraging, kicked my butt like I was a weenie but enjoyed getting stumped himself.
Kris Solem... Class act.
Colm O'Coffaigh... Fearless
Mark Wagner... Tales of yesteryear at Suicide.
The numerous authors in my library who inspired, awed and amazed.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise
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Nov 16, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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Merry Braun(she's so fun.....)
Mike Price (Circlehead)
Denise Brown(another fun gal)
Brad Jarrett
Pat Sullivan
Andres Zegers(remember Chilidog?)
Cade Lloyd
Coiler
Tim Noonan
Bryan Law
That's my list. I'm stickin' with it.
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