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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 30, 2007 - 06:00am PT
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Any List will be incomplete and if you still climb the list will change a little as time passes. As I thought of the top ten I skipped past the books to the flesh.
Some of the listed I did not know but learned something from them, good and bad.
Reading about a climb or climber is far from the influence one gets at the crag.
Gary Rule and Dave Nettle for taking a back packer–surfer to Jtree
I met Gary and Pat Nay on Mt Whitney. They were those guys that carry ropes and that other stuff that you can’t eat, wont keep you warm, what’s the point?
The shoulder strap broke on my assault pack so Gary loaned me one.
They were gone when we returned to base camp.
When I stopped by MT High to return the Pack I was on my way to IV on a girl run.
Gary and Dave Nettle were going to Jtree that night. Gary kept telling me what a blast it would be. I knew what a weekend in IV (1976) would be like, Fing great. But this climbing thing what was it?
Waking up in Jtree having never seen it before was surreal. The climbing mind blowing. My life was changed forever.
Accomazzo
First for showing me Tuesdays and Thursdays at Santee Boulders what was possible along with Very Honorable Mention Dick Shockley
Barber
No positive interaction, I was on Surprise watching this guy floating up a harder route to the right. Really impressive till I heard him dishing the climbers who over bolted the Weeping Wall. I replied if you don’t like them don’t clip them.
I also saw him later solo and knew he probably didn’t need the bolts.
Epperson
Inspiration and Honesty both in climbing and art, wood or camera. Need anyone say more!
E. Erickson
For asking me to belay him on Rebolting Development . May 78 It took a while but it showed me being stuck at 5.9 sucked and was unnecessary
Gordon
Too long of a list. Burleys, Soloing, Simo-climbing, and introducing me to a wide range of folks.
Gullich
Before I knew how great of a climber he was I was impressed with him as a person from conversations that started with climbing but went beyond the Lodge Parking Lot and the Valley.
Dennis Kemp
I was blown away at 23 hanging and climbing with Dennis. On this day we were climbing with Julie. It was the second or third climb of the day, Crescent Arch. Hanging at the belay I looked at him thinking aloud damm you must be 45 and still climbing. He started laughing and asked how old I really thought he was? Sh#t I said all you guys over 30 look the same to me.
He said he was 56 and Julie was 32 and I knew I would climb for ever.
Long
Before the books, Largo was inspiration to the masses, He was approachable for even the likes of me from Jtree to the Valley.
I remember one time , I remember lots of times he was everywhere and go from funny as hell to sobering
Skinner
Todd got me on the hardest climbing I was to ever to do or attempt. He made me believe he was sure I could do it. It was me that was not so sure.
Ten is so incomplete
Even to say a list of Ten is so incomplete falls short. I am truly blessed with all the strangers and friends I have spent time with.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 30, 2007 - 10:09am PT
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I learned a lot from partners who had wider visions:
Joe Herbst
Roger Briggs
Paul Sibley
Bill Roos
Ron Cox
Henry Barber
Jim Ewing
George Hurley
Bill Thompson
Steve Wunsch
Then there's Warren Harding (only climbed with him once but I coveted his routes), and others I never did climb with but whose writings or routes had much influence -- that list gets too long.
But it's interesting too that a lot of what I learned about climbing grew out of adventures with partners who knew no more than I did -- we muddled along together and figured stuff out on our own.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 30, 2007 - 10:16am PT
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Dave Farny- who ran the Telluride Mountaineering School, where I learned to climb at age 14.
Walter Bonatti- for his amazing adventures (and great literature).
Royal Robbins-I reread Basic and Advanced Rockcraft a bazillion times looking for insight as a youth.
Warren Harding-for his iconoclastic style.
Henry Barber- who also taught at the Telluride Moutaineering School, he took me for my first lead and multi-pitch first ascent along the Animas River in the San Juans in 1978.
Werner Braun- taught me that there was more to climbing than just climbing.
John Bachar- the master of focus.
Walt Shipley-adding a little wildness into the sport.
Alex Lowe-when Alex and I climbed Mescalito together in four days, it really changed my perspective on what was possible.
Xaver Bongard--an incredible spirit.
Honorable mention: the Josh Crowd--Watusi, John Freriks, Watusi, Dick Cilley, Todd Gordon,Russ, and many others, who raised the dirtbag lifestyle to a fine art (when I first visited California in 1980 and hung out in Josh for a few weeks, I couldn't believe living in the dirt could be SO much fun!).
edit: Chuck Kroger could easily be on this list, too, though I didn't really start climbing with Chuck until relatively recently. As two old farts, we sure had a lot of fun climbing some great bypassed classics, like Lizard Head and Zoroaster. Of course, he was a hero of my youth for his early first ascent on El Cap.
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Crag Q
Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
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Dec 30, 2007 - 10:57am PT
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My climbing partners have had much more influence on me than the legends of climbing.
Michael Immerwahr for getting me to quit my job and go on my first road trip and inspiring to me to do "the classics" and for opening my eyes about big wall climbing.
Michael Williams for showing me that it's possible to look smooth climbing and for always having a positive attitude.
Mark Langley for showing me the ropes on all the great climbs in Boulder Canyon during my first year of climbing.
Patricia Li for showing me that girls can be just as tough on the big walls as the guys.
Chet Moritz for being showing me that training is probably more important than talent and leads to the confidence necessary for greater adventures.
Dale Remsberg for his unbound energy for ice climbing and for pushing me to lead my first WI5 the candadian rockies.
Forrest Noble for showing me that with a strong head it's possible to lead 5.11 trad in Eldo off the couch and for his never ending enthusiasm.
Phoebe Quincy for being a great partner on and off the rocks and for making a day of easy climbing just as fun as a big under taking.
Bea Wallace for showing me that persistence and devotion can over come fear and lead to continued improvement.
Jon Sargent for proving that even bad accident can be an adventure if you keep your wits about you and work as a team just like you would on the climb. And for being the strongest climber I know.
Honorable mentions for books that really influence what I've done or how I climb:
Yvon Chouinard/Doug Robinson for writing Ice Climbing
Roper/Steck for writing the 50 classics
John Middendorf for writing the first Big Wall Climbing book.
Mark Twight for writing Extereme Alpinism
Pat Ament for How to be a Master Climber
Warren Harding for Downward Bound
Eric Horst for How to Climb 5.12
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cintune
climber
Penn's Woods
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Dec 30, 2007 - 11:02am PT
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Burt Bronson.
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 30, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
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DMT,
Hey, what a blast from the past...how is Stu doing? Stu and I tried to get together years ago and since lost touch.
 ec
edit: By the way, IMHO this is will be a bit more interesting than the other '10' list. - ec
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 30, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
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My dad
Ken Hritz
Chuck Blackwell
Jack McBroom
Troy Mayr
Jeff Tolekson
Mike Waugh
Stoney Point Jim
Bob Kamps
Curt Lyons
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Wrathchild
Big Wall climber
Satan's testicles
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Dec 30, 2007 - 06:06pm PT
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Harding
Messner
Duece
The Bird
Salathe
Whymper
Bonnington
Mark Synnott
And the guy who forced me onto the wall more than anyone else...
Keith Lober
Avoiding that prick launched me up many a wall in haste.
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Big Kahuna
Ice climber
Hell Hardest climb I did was getting out of bed.
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Dec 30, 2007 - 07:11pm PT
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I was more influenced by my climbing partners than the great legends of climbing.
My wife Kelle’ Harter together we could do any thing we put our minds to. No mater how epic it was we would get through it together.
Mark Miller no matter what climbing is just about having fun doesn’t matter what level, grade or number you are climbing you should be having fun period. Mark likes climbing with me caused I don’t mind if he drinks and I’m up for anything.
Mike Carville:
• To look for rest in the most unusual places.
• Ethics and ground up bolting practices.
I asked Mike why he liked climbing with me one day he said “Because you’re really safe and fun to be with.” Funny what I remember most about climbing with him was his constant big grin always enjoying the moment.
Steve Glotfelty: How to set a bolt correctly and make a quality FA that others would appreciate.
Jim Arnold (426) How to flag and back step.
Jay Anderson (Jaybro) to appreciate a good extra wide crack other wise know as offwidth.
Dan Osman:
• To use chalk on my shoes when climbing slick rock if my shoes where dirty.
• For all the climbing partners, about 75% of my climbing partners are Dano’s old partners from when he first started climbing.
• For creating the climbing program at Rite of passage where I was a climbing instructor at.
Kirby Waterman: For teaching me about the suttees of anchors.
Mike Ierien: Have fun be positive and train hard.
Tommy Herbert: Keep working toward your goal and practice imaging see your self succeeding in the route and you will achieve it. When I asked Tommy why he wanted to climb with me he said “You make a good anchor.” His references was to me being the anchor LOL.
Well know Climbers that I have not climbed with but have influenced me somewhat.
John Long and the Fish love their humor and JL reminds me that big guys can climb.
Mugs Stumps reminds me that big guys can climb boldly.
Ron Kauk Ron is a jokester as I learned and will get you to do his dirty work and you will be laughing too.
Jim Bridwell always fun to stop and have a few beers with and BS about the route that we just climbed and when he did the same route 20 years ago.
TM Herbert: Older guys can still climb and have fun.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 30, 2007 - 08:07pm PT
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I'd have to start with my old friend Roger Wilson, who pretty much taught me how to climb in the early '70's. After which it would have to be my mainstay SD local crowd that I hung with religiously...Bob Van Belle, Alan Nelson, Galen Kirkwood and Doug White, there were others but these were core! Werner Landry and his group greatly influenced me as well. Then I got to know John Long when I was very young, when he worked at the local Ski-Mart in PB where I grew up. Being an avid Woodson local my first accomplishments were to climb many of John Bachar's fine routes, and throughout my climbing days he was always my greatest inspiration! In my later travels I'd met countless of other inspirational folks but I think I learned the most from perhaps Werner Braun, with his infinite wisdom and calm demeanor, and my long time friend, Roy McClenahan with whom I'd gotten to do some really fine things over my years climbing...
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Dec 30, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
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Fred Lepsy books taught me more about cliimbing, then any partner. Brilliant.
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Sherri
climber
WA
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Dec 30, 2007 - 08:38pm PT
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Having barely two years of climbing under my belt, I'm rather impressionable so anyone I rope up with is going to have a big influence. I am hard-pressed to think of 10 people I've climbed with yet, but at the top of my list would be one of your own Supertopians, Kevin Rose.
I didn't know what "burly" meant until I thrutched up a few offwidths behind this guy. He can make any climb look easy and loves rock more than anyone I know.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 30, 2007 - 09:06pm PT
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I'm mostly going to the formative years with this one. though I can see I've left out people like Layne Kopishka, Kim walker, Jerry DeCamp and what's his name (Jon Garson)
The Bros Stettner
My Dad
Chazbro
Mike Friedrichs
Manny Rangel
-If you guys knew what these last two have been through and still keep on going, you'd be amazed.
Doug Cairns
Bob Scarpelli
Dru Marquardt
The Colonel
Henry Barber (got me into OW)
Have to squeeze Walt in here no matter the numbers, no body else showed me what is possible than he did.
Hosts of others, many of whom are here in Tacoland, who were and continue to be influential and continually supportive.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Dec 30, 2007 - 11:43pm PT
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Robbins for the books that taught us how to climb.
Choinard for the catalog that taught us how and why to use clean pro.
Mike Waugh for always being great competition and a near perfect climbing partner.
Dave Hauser for teaching me how to put routes up and that it isn't important to put lots up, just make sure each one is stellar.
Bachar for showing us all what style and commitment can get you.
Largo for showing us that you could do it all and still get away with acting like a buffoon.
Bob Kamps for showing us what being a great human being was about.
Herb Laeger for showing us that sometimes over the top really is too far over the top.
Dick Shockley for showing us how to do it all more stoned that any of us believed possible.
Kris Solem for showing what technique will get you that strength won't, and for being a great partner for many, many years.
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abisharat
climber
CO
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Dec 31, 2007 - 12:07am PT
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my fingers, thumb to thumb
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Dec 31, 2007 - 12:10am PT
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Jens Holsten
Mikey Schaeffer
Rob Miller
James Selvidge
Siemay Lee
Alex Honnold
Lucho Rivera
Jamie Mundo
Max Hasson
Justen Sjong
funny andrew
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Dec 31, 2007 - 01:19am PT
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Like Watusi, those who influenced my climbing the most were those I actually climbed with a good deal.
John Gill
John Stannard
John Arthur - my first climbing partner
Mark Jacobs
Chris Jones
Bob Williams
Corey Chatwin
Chris Raypole
I've had a bunch of other excellent climbing partners over the years, but these were the guys who truly inspired me.
Curt
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Dec 31, 2007 - 01:32am PT
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Tim Schinhoffen opened my eyes to the bigger picture. He built in me a respect for the big mountains.
Buck Branson - possibly the most stoked climber I've seen. When I first started out years ago as a teenaged gym rat, he was cool enough to show me basics that would have kept me elsewhere.
Timmy Oneil. Its weird to say, he probably doesn't remember me from Adam. The three times I've met Timmy (san diego, JT, el cap meadow) I got the feeling that one of the most important things you can do as a climber is to be in love with the sport. He loves it -- you could be toproping a 5.6 in a podunk chosspile in kentucky and he would want to hear about it. The only 'pro' (hard to use that word with climbers lol) that seemed like a guy I could hang out with. Tommy, chris and the hubers? A little intimidating!
My mom. Got me into climbing. had some of my best experiences doing aesthetic and memorable peaks in the sierras. She's 54 and has no sign of slowing down. Best attitude of anyone I've ever climbed with. Sometimes in better shape than me. Inspiring, if humbling.
Well I don't have ten. I'm also 23. See you out there maybe?
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Dec 31, 2007 - 01:59am PT
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Matt Robertson
BJ Bailey
Sean Burns
Josh Thompson
Sean Kriletich
Aaron Smith
Bob Jensen
Jake Whitaker
Chad Shepard
CJ Pearson
Ted Roberts
All in no particular order
.....Because they have all taught me how to climb at various points in time, and provided the the best friendship I have ever had.....
If any of you fellers are reading this. THANKS!!!
Many more pitches to come
Patrick
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Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
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Dec 31, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
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Hey scooter!- we have one in common.
Really dig this thread.
Sean "Bovine" Burns-
For taking me under his wing even though I was obnoxious and clueless. His patience and expectations lead me to discover what climbing could offer. He would always see through my BS(still does) and pushed me to be honest, and bold. The soul of an artist, with the mind of an engineer.
Jesse "Messy" Gross-
One of my earliest climbing partners who has suffered with me the most. Taught and still teaches me that climbing is just one piece of the puzzle of life. Always sees me as stronger than I really am which in turn makes me so.
Clay Frisbee-
I have only climbed with him once, but this guy has inspired me since I first met him in '95. He was scribbling notes in his first guidebook to northern Arkansas. At that point he had well over 500 FA's in the ozark hills. Now it numbers into the thousands and he continues to inspire, including a N&HDIAD ascent. Taught me that it doesn't have to be "pretty" to be pretty.
Kurt "The General" Smith-
Before I even had the chance to be friends with him, he inspired me by his reputation as a route "artist". He taught me to never be pigeon holed into a certain style, to be bold, and to be expressive. He also taught me how to bolt on lead without dying. Still an "artist" after all these years.
Ben "Manboobs" Williams-
When he was 18 he cold called me and announced his name and that he "wanted to learn to trad climb." Well he learned all right, and quickly passed me up. We have since had many adventures, dragging each-other up our own separate "visions".
He taught me to never give up for a redpoint, and that training on a hangboard and campus rungs are worth the suffering and boredom. A constant source of inspiration and encouragement.
Craig Luebben-
Taught me to find what discipline I love and am best at and pursue it like a bulldog. Also taught me to stop running it out on offwidths.
Tricia Collins-
Teaches me that I don't have to excel for it to be fun, and to always look at climbing as a beginner, so I never cease to stop learning. I was always afraid to get married, cuz my life of adventure would disappear. Every year since I have increased my climbing fulfillment, primarily due to her encouragement and blessing.
Allen Currano-
This dude has belayed me on more pitches than anyone- from above and below. He has massaged away altitude sickness at 14k; he has talked me into things I never thought I could do, and taught me to laugh at the most serious of moments. Always encourages me as an artist, on the rock and off.
Randy Leavitt-
I've never climbed with him, but his all around skill and performance in so many disciplines has always inspired me to push harder.
Dean Potter-
An artist in climbers clothing. If he hadn't found climbing, he would had to have found vision somewhere else. Taught me to never ignore the word "intuition".
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