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James
climber
Santa Cruz
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May 29, 2008 - 02:36am PT
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Spectres are sick on sandstone cracks. Moonlight Buttress V 5.12d
Enzos are better bouldering
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perswig
climber
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May 29, 2008 - 07:29am PT
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Good pics, pretty chewed. Thank you, Ed.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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May 29, 2008 - 09:54am PT
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Ed ya gotta love the way that NATURAL rubber peels off itself! Looks like a formula one tire coming off after a long stint, Bachar says F-1 tires are the sticky....the Enzo is in his line of shoes.
Got a pair of Aztecs and I tried fitting myself despite what John said about the fit....I was wrong, he was right. The size he recommended was the correct one. Thanks John, Lisa and Steve(RIP)for such a cool set of zapatos(sp)!
Peace
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Got a look at the new Legends at the OR yesterday...and they are what I've been dreaming of since I got the JB's...a low top but like the JB in stiffness. A modern day ace/syncro, if you will, but made by the right folks. Stiff, but with that killer Acopa toe-box. I was droolin on em for sure! Look like they'd edge on a gnat's ass.
Plus...JB styled them retro-fire.... Fuggin cool if you ask me.
ACOPA FOR LIFE!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I've had these boots for a year and used them only outside, on OW mostly...
compare with the photos above...
The climbs climbed in them:
Dream Easy
Physical Therapy
Off Width Ed
Sacherer Cracker
Moby Dick Center
Ahab
Sacherer Cracker
The Slack Left
Generator Crack
Two Humps or One? (alternate third pitch of a new route... 5.10a OW)
Cream
Bad Ass Momma (gave it the old college try at least)
Warm Up (5.9 OW somewhere in the Sierra)
Butt Side of Baby Gristle (5.9 OW sameplace in the Sierra)
Baby Gristle (5.10+ OW samesame in the Sierra)
Circular Staircase
When You're Strange
Baobob Tree
I.S.M.W.W.C.I.
MRC Direct
Edwards' Crack
Hourglass, Right Side
Robbins' Crack
Crucible
Test Tube
Mother Superior
Orange Juice Avenue
My inclination is to send them to Barry's Resole and have them work out a solution to the rand issues... the boots are great though, as much as they are damaged in my usage (I'm hard on shoes, and these have lasted about a year of really hard work). The boot I'm using now is a pair of Kaukulators that Mr. Smooth found on eBay... for my feet, JBs and Kaukulators are the boots of choice.
wear on the outside heels and mid-foot
the list of climbs:
more wear on the left foot at the outside ball of the foot and the toe
outside-heel rand is delaminated
left foot outside rand well worked
right foot outside rand, the same
closeup on left foot rand peel... perhaps the glue?
closeup of mid-foot rand seam
right foot rand seam also torn, but not through
toes, left foot through to last?
soles, hardly worked... must be doing a lot of OW
tops in good shape, not blood stains either!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Feb 28, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
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how is the sizing of these? I found a canadian site that has them for REAL cheap on closeout. I have a 10.5 aztec, real real comfy fit, but this site only has a 9.5...think it will work??
How do you folks have them sized?
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Feb 28, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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Hey Sewellymon
Didn't do shark vegas, we thought about it but... We ended up going to this big shtone right above and right of Cannibal Crag did this really awesome upwards then sharp right moving 10d crack. Really cool line despite the 0 stars. After that we made it over to the Risk Brothers Roof. It was so cool! 8ish foot horizontal perfect hands to slightly wide hands roof crack. beautiful indian creek looking splitter! It was so fun!
Shark Vegas is 11c in the guide, right where you said it is. Im going to check it out next time i am down there.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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I like my JBs. The first pair I bought I got my street size 9 1/2. Lisa at Acopa had gently tried to get me to order bigger but I didn't. I immediately slapped a 1 1/2x 3 inch rounded C4 patch on the outside of the shoe where the foot is widest.
I did this because two things usually happen to my climbing shoes. They stretch in this area and then start to deform, doing a banana bend, which pushed the front of the shoe to the side, out of alignment with the toes, making it hard to smear, and to jamb thin cracks. I thought to preempt this by putting on this patch. What I didn't appreciate is that the JB are stiff. They won't stretch that much. I've worn this pair on a lot of climbs and twice a week in the gym and they are still tight. I believe they will eventually stretch to fit. Meanwhile I got a pair of 10 1/2s. One full size larger than my street size. They fit well and haven't deformed at all. I still prefer my green 5.10 Altias, which I'm only now using on long routes.
Zander
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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my Acopa JBs were fit through the mail, basically Lisa sent me two pair with a range of fitting, 10.5 and 11, and the 10.5's worked.... I sent the others back along with a check for the fit pair.
The JBs are fit for OW climbing, which is to say, on the large side... if you are going to use them primarily for edging, you will probably want to fit them smaller, but Acopa will give you very good advice if you give them good information on your intended use.
With my Aztecs and Chameleons, the fit is differential, one foot being 9.5 and the other 10, which give a perfect out-of-the-box fit. A friend asked Scarpa if they would do the same thing and got laughed at by the US representative during the phone conversation. The friend said he would contact Scarpa Italy directly, and was further mocked by the rep...
considering that climbing shoes are bought for a precise function, with a limited lifetime, and at some expense, it is odd that shoe companies are not more in tune with the climbers. This apparently hasn't been an issue as the "if the shoe hurts, it fits" philosophy persists among climbers to this day... the young climbers will routinely buy painful sizes thinking that this will improve their climbing.
I think that is a real misconception that persists, you can get well fit shoes that perform well and don't hurt... Acopa does a good job in making that happen.
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Strangely, my size 11 JB's are painfully tight on my 10.5 to 11-sized feet (crunched toes, mostly). I've climbed 1 or 2 pitches in them and worn them around the house a bunch hoping they'll stretch, but no. I think I need to go up at least a half size, and possibly a full size.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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So, who has a pair of legends and a report?
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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btw I see that REI is carrying the Aztec and Spectre online. Called up the saratoga & mountain view stores, but nothing there yet ..
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Wow, Ed.
I bet 90 percent of that wear came on just a handful of those routes.
My rands are delaminating at the stress point (a the met heads), but it's not fatal. I eventually burned thru the rubber and had them resoled with C4. I've finally gotten used to the Acopa rubber, though, and the next pair I get resoled I'll probably stick with the original stuff.
The shoe itself is holding up remarkably well, given the mileage I'm putting on them.
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couchmaster
climber
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Climbmax, my local climbing store needs to carry these. I told them that when I got my Aztecs. That and Bachaer needs the bump and I need to put that damn racoon image someplace:-)
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hamburglar
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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I've been climbing in my spectre's for the last year and a half. I find them to be a great all around shoe. Unfortunately one of the toes blew out about halfway through the first season. I had them repaired/resoled and they are no doubt my favorite shoe. I actually just picked up a new pair at the 20% REI sale as the rubber on mine is peeling off on the outside of the shoe (up toward the toe). I used a little shoe goo and that seemed to help put it back together.
Just a quick note on the sizing; I like my shoes "snug" and I wear and 8.5 street shoe. In the spectre's I got a 9.5 that is the perfect fit for me. I've never bought a climbing shoe in a larger size that my street shoe but I couldn't come close to fitting my foot in an 8.5. They stretch a little, but probably just molded to my feet a little from all the sweat.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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my monthly question on this general topic - has anyone put a pair of acopa legends on their feet and checked them out? Do these shoes really exist?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
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OK. I wear a size 8.5 street shoe and ordered a size 8 on-line per JB's advice to get 1/2 size less than your street shoe size. Man, those size 8's have about half the volume of my running shoes; they look like baby shoes! There was no way my foot would fit in them. They are a good 2.5" to 3" shorter than my running shoes. So I did a search and came up with this thread. I'm going to return them but have no clue what size to request in exchange. Based on the volume of the 8's, I don't know whether to request a size 9.5 or 10 or ????
Any advice? Is the quality control such that there is a variance in actual dimensions within a size (i.e., are all size 8's the same dimensions or is it inconsistant)?
I have not been able to find anywhere in South Orange County (CA) that carries these so I can try them on. Anyone know of anyone that carries these in this area?
Thank for any input.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
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I bought my JB's about two years ago at Mammoth Mountaineering Supply. My feet measure size 9.5 and I got the JB's in 10, which seemed to work reasonably well. I hear some people size way up to wear with socks, but I generally don't.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:49pm PT
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ryang-
Thanks for the input. How much shorter are your JB 10's versus your 9.5 running shoes?
Edit: Meaning if you place them sole to sole, which includes the fat shock absorbing heals on the running shoe, which distorts actual internal length/volume.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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I don't own running shoes because I don't run. I usually wear high-top hiking boots because my ankles are crap .. but I doubt measuring them would help you any.
I'm pretty sure MMS takes mail order via their website, but mountain gear also carries them. I'd probably order a few sizes and return the ones which don't fit. The postage could get spendy, but for that I tend to use something like stamps.com ..
You could also order direct from Acopa (which I haven't done, but I hear they are good about this kind of thing).
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