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M.Tea
Trad climber
Utah
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 5, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
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Just back from a week in the meadows knobbing it up in great temps...and the JB's did awesome!...from knobby smedges to polished dimes, thinsky to fists...they were all over that sh#t like a hobo on a ham sandwhich!
Thanks for making a stiffer shoe for us gorillas JB!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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So, where in the BA can I try on a pair of JB's? it's the one they don't stock @ Marmot
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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For a trad shoe, I have found the heel cup to be a might bit aggressive. They will take some time to break in and will probably kill my heel much like Mariachers did back in the day. They are a weeeeee bit heavy too to my mind, maybe the sole is too thick.
As to whether they work really well and I can dime edge my way up 5.12, the court is in recess until August, unless I go climb at the Peanut Gallery this weekend.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Funnily enough I also climbed in my JB's for the first time last Monday.
I'm by no means a 5.12 climber, never was and never will be but they are truly an awesome shoe. They performed beyond my expectations and my only criticism is that they will take some breaking in to be comfortable. But that may be my fault buying a tad too tight.
The other Acopa shoe I have is the Spectra which for me is even better.
Sole thickness for me has not detracted from their sensitivity.
Over the many years (don't ask!) climbing I do not think that a shoe has impressed me more. Not just there ability but the construction just looks and feels bomber.
Howie.
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CF
climber
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The JB'S edge like crazy! Self portrait while TR'ing a TM testpiece. The shoes excel on this type of climbing.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Canopy World? Or South Whiz?
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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I'm curious how you sized yours MTea. Did you get to try them on or just guess? If you guessed, how do they feel compared with your guess? Also, how do you think the Acopa "buy your street shoe size" scheme works? I want to buy a pair, but I have no opportunity to try them on, so I am curious about your experience. Thanks in advance for your input!
Michael
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M.Tea
Trad climber
Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
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I just did 1/2 size down from my street shoe in the JB (as recommended by JB), and it was perfect. Right ouuta the box these sum'bitches had corn! Edging, slabbing, cracks...bingo! Aztecs I went a full size down...they were tight but unlined and stretched just fine. Bottom line is JB and Lisa will make sure you are stoked.
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Salamanizer
Mountain climber
Vacaville Ca,
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I got a pair of JB about a month ago.
I emailed John directly to ask about sizeing being that I could not find a pair anywhere to try. He was super helpfull in suggesting a size (thanks John). I ordered 1/2 size smaller than my street shoe size and they fit like a glove. The first route I climbed in them (to test them out)was the NW face of Half Dome. They were comfortable all day and stuck to the rock like sh#t on a blanket.
I tell you, after getting these shoes, gobied ancles are a thing of the past. For me, there was no break in period. I could edge on a dime the first time I put them on and they preform really well on slab also.
Only complaint; the rubber is delaminating on both toes already. Might be an isolated case.....might not.
Love the shoe...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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M. Tea - thanx much for the compliments and thank all you other Supertopians for suggesting we make a high top. I thought we might sell twenty pair a year or something but these babies are going through the roof!
G Gnome, stick with them, the heel breaks in quite well and they also get less stiff after about ten to fifteen climbing days. They are definitely on the stout side of things but will last a long time once you get them broken in (much like high tops of the old days).
Most people are buying one half size below their street shoe for a tight fit and many go for the same size and wear socks. Only a few go above their street shoe size. If you know your Aztec size then go up a half size for the same kind of feel/tightness level.
Thanks again and enjoy! JB
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M.Tea
Trad climber
Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2007 - 12:35am PT
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yo JB, how about a low top style JB now! ;-)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Re. rubber delaminating on toes:
My Aztecs delaminated on the toes a few months after purchase. Kept climbing on them and found no difference in feel or performance. That was about 2.5 years ago, and I've never looked back. Still my best shoe, and when I get tired of resoling them I'll get another pair of the same.
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lemon_boy
climber
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i won a free pair of acopas at the HERA climb for life BBQ in boulder and these are the shoes i decided to try out. i climb a LOT of OW and my old high tops are about to die, so i am excited to try them out. i tried a bunch on to size them, and was surprised by the sizing. holy crap, size 11! man, i must be getting old if my feet are getting bigger again. most of my climbing shoes are size 9 or so, but with these ones i am getting them really comfy (but not too sloppy) for those long puking 'gasm chasms. can't wait!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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The delamination may have been a bad glue batch since mine delaminated in the first two weeks (it was February and never got above 60 degrees so it wasn't the heat). I've been gluing them since but will have to break down and resole them this week. Great shoe-- good design. I might second the reservations on the heel. It seems to be mid-way between the more sculpted heel on the Spectra and the padded heel on the Aztec. Sometimes I miss the more sculpted heel, but not as often as I think it might be nice to have a more stable platform and a bit of eva or whatever that padding is in the Aztecs. I'd vote for one or the other on the next edition.
Actually did stacks of sport routes in the Dolomites in these and they performed amazingly well on the technical stuff.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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CF - Meltdown? Skinwalker?
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Get over it you guys. Feet are overrated. Just shut up and climb.
Mal
PS, I wish I could use a pair of these. They look great.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Since you put it that way Malcolm, I figured I better order a pair while I've still got feet! I don't know if you will remember me, but I worked at The Wilderness Centre here in Albuquerque from about 1980 till about 1990. I would often see you with Mark Wilford hawking your wares at the shop and trade shows. I kind of got out of the scene for a long while and never really heard what had happened to you until much later. How is your surviving foot? How does it feel in a rockshoe now? But more importantly, can you still party like a rock star? LOL!
Michael Smith
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Ok, I wore these babies in Tuolumne last weekend. They hurt badly!!! That heel cup is too radical. And I think the uppers are too stiff and don't give at all. At the same time they will stand on just about anything. I did one of the 5.12s at the Peanut Gallery in them. I was really happy when about 2/3 of the way up my feet quit hurting so much. When I got to the ground and took them off I realized my feet had gone numb. Perfect!
So, if you want the ultimate edging boot, buy some. If you want an all day shoe, be very careful.
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mbb
climber
the slick
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CM, did you mean a JM masterpiece? Looks like whateverthatthingiscalledtotherightofelectricafrica
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Salamanizer
Mountain climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Ok, I need a revision of my original post.
I've had my JB's for about a month and just blew out the toes on both feet. The rubber delaminated to the point of decintigration.
I love the feel and performance of the shoe. I don't know about you guys, but I can't afford to buy a new pair of shoes every month. Now I'm completely hosed. I have to break down and buy a new pair of shoes.
What's Acopas guarantee policy? Because I'm feeling a little riped off right now.
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