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Wes Allen
Boulder climber
KY
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Feb 14, 2007 - 06:50pm PT
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I know this might get me into trouble here, but...
The first trip I made to the "sandstone mecca" of horsetooth was one of the biggest letdowns of my climbing travels. I mean, it was kinda cool and all. But after spending days at Rocktown/hp 40 /and LRC, it just didn't even compare. And, the Gneiss around Boone is outstanding. The only thing that sucks about bouldering in the SE is usually the weather sucks about forty percent of the time. If you catch rocktown on a nice crisp fall day, heaven. If you are there on a 90 degree / 95% humidity summer day, hell. So, if you can catch the good weather, you will love it.
And if you have some time when you are around the east this spring, I would be psyched to give you a tour, or hook you up with someone that can - rocktown is big, and the dr topo guide book is only a small part of what is there.
Jamas, that is Johanna, and her guy is Sean, who, in it's-a-small-world-after-all, put up many of the classic, harder lines in rocktown. Both are all around great people.
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goatboy smellz
climber
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Feb 14, 2007 - 09:17pm PT
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Horsetooth is a special place if it's all you got for after school/work bouldering.
You work with what you have.
After 911 the city closed down the Tropics due to it's vicinity to the dam which eliminates a badonkadonk of badass climbing.
Oh well, next time your around let me know & you can get your fill of sandstone at "Cloud 9".(I can say no more)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 14, 2007 - 10:53pm PT
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to me, horsetooth is like mecca. you visit it once or twice a lifetime and have a spiritual experience repeating the handful of gill problems.
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dfinnecy
Social climber
san joser
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Feb 14, 2007 - 10:57pm PT
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Ouch, just looking at the left hand pinch on Coz Daddy in Salas's edit: "Salad's" photo makes my wrist hurt. And I never even got the problem,
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Feb 15, 2007 - 09:53am PT
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Where'd you climb there Wes? I'm with beeb on the Tooth. After fully launching one eliminator 'Gill style' (sans pads), I'm itching to go back with a bevy of mats...
I hear development has been a little rough up there though...really goatboy, 9/11 closed some "terrain"?
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Feb 15, 2007 - 11:08am PT
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Somewhere near "Eldo".
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goatboy smellz
climber
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Feb 15, 2007 - 11:18am PT
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Yep, the overhanging cliff band right at of the base of the dam got closed down cus them ol' pesky terrorist’s climbers.
The local chiefs with the access fund fought proudly yet the evil empire won that battle.
That’s ok; we discovered a new land for winter warmth and posturing.
Better than before.
Better, Stronger, Faster…
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
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micronut - thanx. yeah stuff looks cool. Reminds me of some places on the East Side where the rock changes from volcanic choss to granite in a short distance...weird.
bob - somewhere near Eldo???? heh heh...looks granitic?
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Wes Allen
Boulder climber
KY
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Feb 15, 2007 - 03:25pm PT
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426, went to the piano area and rotary park (if that is where pinch overhang is). It wasn't bad by any stretch, but there just wasn't as much as I had imagined. Plus, I was not then (or now really) all that strong, so did try some of the classic problems. Oh, and the torture chamber area - that was the least good. The others were fun, and a nice change of pace from vedauwoo, where I was spending 5 weeks. If in the area, I would hit it up again for sure.I guess the Dakota sandstone isn't as cool as the SE stuff to me.
The 420 boulders seemed like a much better area, and they are not all that much farther, though I really got my ass kicked there.
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goatboy smellz
climber
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Feb 15, 2007 - 03:39pm PT
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Wes,
Forget about colorado, it a wasteland.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Feb 15, 2007 - 06:09pm PT
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John...it's sandstone. Not as pretty as below.
BTW...how are you feeling? Good I hope.
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Scoot
Trad climber
Estes Park, CO
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Feb 15, 2007 - 06:27pm PT
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I love Pine Mountain, been there once and the rock was incredible. If you all have a chance check it out. Castle Rock was great too.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2007 - 10:07pm PT
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bob - is that Horsetooth?
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tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
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Feb 17, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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Micronut, Is that the Moon in the night shot? Very Cool.
I live in Fresno/Clovis, lets go climb.
JR (Randomtask)asked about a traverse on the hillside not that far from the gate. Just behind the traverse is a nice little fist size crack good lockers and perhaps a chicken wing or two.
Up from that and close to the property fence are two small if not awkward problems.
That dark crack you're on is that further up the hill?
Hope to meet you out there sometime :)
Jer
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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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Feb 17, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
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The only time I have ever seen a rattle snake on a climb was doing a traverse. It was bouldering at Crest Boulders. Did a reverse PDQ
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Feb 17, 2007 - 03:48pm PT
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Point Mugu rock!
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kev
climber
CA
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Feb 17, 2007 - 05:11pm PT
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bump - this is climbing related....
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Feb 17, 2007 - 05:15pm PT
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Good description of ERock rock texture, Radical!
I would agree, perfectly, and that used to be one of my home crags.
Pink-flecked granite, short but stout!
Nice slab climbing on the backside, too!
Bouldering is supposed to be sick there, but all I did was trad there.
-Aaron
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Feb 17, 2007 - 05:57pm PT
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I could out-boulder all of you guys with one hand tied behind my back, if I could only remember how. (just joking, no mean replies).
John, do you remember your and my visit to Split Rocks? That's still one of my best memories, our visit of course, but my visits with Gill and others also to that immacultely joyful place. I often imagine that might be what heaven is like. I think I took most of my good friends there, each time always finding new things to play at. Sunlight, pines, those nice grassy landings for many of the routes. I haven't been there in a while, and they were doing something, such as building a road up through there or some horrid idea of building a house up in there somewhere. Years ago I actually thought about trying to buy the place, as it was up for sale, but I realized I had no chance of raising that kind of money. I imagine climbers could go up there and realize some of my dreams, whereas there were about a hundred more boulders I never even had time to get to. I suppose that's how it is around Woodsen, areas never yet touched?
Pat
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2007 - 06:41pm PT
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Micronut - nice photos! Looks like killer granite too - reminds me of Mt. Rubidoux stuff.
Oli - yes those were good times. A climbers ranch with boulders would be good - somehow I think we'd all mess it up!
See US Bouldering Vol. 3 - this thread's getting pretty long!
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