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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2018 - 09:00pm PT
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It is also my recollection that C*#ks@cker's Concerto was Chuck's name. It sounds like Chuck. He didn't like no-pins climbing, he didn't like pretense, and as the owner of many, many, many classical 33 LP records, he knew the music that Royal's Nutcracker Suite referred to. I always thought CS Concerto was crude and seems to have given licence to name a nearby route Fecaphilia.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 20, 2018 - 12:12am PT
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As long as we're talking about it, I did the 2nd ascent of C.S. Concerto with Yvon on June 11,1967. He insisted that I do this really neat new route 15 minutes after he had led me into the depths of Tweedle Dee.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 20, 2018 - 12:16am PT
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I don't know anyone who's done Tweedle Dee, I went to look at it once and was convinced it wasn't going to go well for me
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 10:52am PT
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"There’s more than one quote there, doctor Hartouni,..."
that's Dr. Ed to you... Warbler
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 05:51pm PT
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I have a recollection that it was originally Nutcracker Sweet in line with Royal's love of puns.
C S Concerto was definitely Chuck's name and certainly made Roper happy along with other Pratt names like Chingando which allowed Steve to use one of his favorite words and pastime in print.
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Feb 15, 2018 - 07:59pm PT
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Hartouni, laughing at your response regarding Roper quote.... ;)
Everyone, I have recently come across a 30 page epic personal reflection that Dad wrote about the Dawn Wall event (an event which has gained mythological momentum, the more coverage it gets).
I'm saving sharing his reflections for a later time, but suffice to say that the internal (anguished) debates he had before, during, and after, very clearly indicate how seriously he took that endeavor. Lauria has eluded to such in his replies here, I believe. Dad had both respect and good will towards Harding, his issue was with the precedent that Harding's ascent would set in regard to Yosemite climbing standards/ethics. That aspect of the Dawn Wall, in the strange recent media coverage has been largely sacrificed for the sensationalism of their personal "rivalry".
Warren and Caldwell put up a route that, regardless of the bolts, took immense tenacity and commitment. Dad and Lauria, from a place of well-intended efforts to preserve a certain quality of Yosemite climbing, had to not only re-climb that route, but wrestle with all sorts of personal / philosophical questions along the way.
It's an epic story, and hopefully will be retold with a broader perspective sometime in the future.....
Cheers ;)
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