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WBraun
climber
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Jan 30, 2015 - 09:42am PT
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There are three different ones.
One facing glacier Point, one before even getting into the NDG and one facing half dome down Tenaya Canyon.
All "Bonzi descents"
The second one I described was my descent I always used which was really fast but required good down climbing skills ......
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 30, 2015 - 09:50am PT
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I suspect that the number of climbers who would actually down climb the route after topping out would be very few to none at all.
But as to your question, it really wouldn't be much more of an inconvenience than a team rappelling past. So, angry? No. I might suggest to them that the ND gully would've been a better option.
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overwatch
climber
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Jan 30, 2015 - 09:50am PT
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I haven't posted much in quite awhile but felt compelled...damn jebus that werner/hotdogs/brando sh#t fukin killed me. Thanks.
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sneville
climber
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Jan 30, 2015 - 09:58am PT
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I agree with Gabel. This is ridiculous. It ruins the experience. If a party cannot get up the route and descend properly then you should not be up there. We all have had an epic and learn from the experience. Why did the original poster not have a head lamp, really? Go up the day before and scope the North Dome gully descent. What ever happened to being prepared, bring bail gear just in case.
What is next after reflectors? What is in place to stop other people from putting reflectors on other routes. This is the outdoors not the gym. Just my 2 cents.
Sean
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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Yes ... Kos
Someone hung a yellow one of those flashers once on a cliff in the valley.
They had to send us up to take it down ......
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:10am PT
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I suspect that the number of climbers who would actually down climb the route after topping out would be very few to none at all.
Doesn't Valley lore say the speed record on the route was accomplished by a young stud running down the route back to the floor, round-tripping in less than an hour?
I'm late to the thread & haven't read much past the first page, but I have to say NO REFLECTORS!
What, are you crazy? This is Yosemite Valley bro.
Ideally, the rap anchors would appear perfectly, each after a 29 meter rap straight down. Lacking that, we can save the current rap route with some cleverness:
 Where the following station is not easily findable in the dark, hook a small SS plaque to the rap anchor that describes how to find the next station. If downclimbing is necessary, describe how far and what to expect at the next rap. If there's a bunch of straight-foward raps that don't need plaques, then describe that on the leading plaque, for example:
Rap 30m, downclimb 45m in the corner to a tree anchor, then rap 6 straight pitches.
Establish a valet rap service that you purchase through the Ahwahnee parking valet (good idea Ken!).
The Royal Arches is a special route, with special lore and appeal. Because of the grade an history, you get many folks who are at their limit on the route. While I've never considered taking the rap route, I think the idea of hanging plaques on this one route might be acceptable. Certainly, many people would really appreciate the route-finding help. Almost daily.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:13am PT
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Flashing reflectors, lol!
Flaishing reflectors hanging on cliffs in the Valley, lol!
LOL!! (Sorry, wb)
.....
KP, thanks for the reply.
I would envisage down climbers though, of varying skill range.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:14am PT
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^^^^+100 on the suggestion to chop the rap route^^^^
it is ultimately just a convenience after all.
Playing the devil's advocate: What isn't a "convenience" in climbing? I hope you plan to chop every fixed pin, every bolted anchor station, every rap station in the valley too...otherwise you are a giant hypocrite..convenience for me, but not for thee. After all, you did just run laps on Generator off a bolted TR anchor, and IIRC the station on Stone Groove is fixed too, and that's not convenience?
And again, people do take the chop in the NDG. Stats are probably the same for NDG deaths and RA-Raps deaths (Werner?)
Personally, don't much care. I can't see myself climbing that route on a rope again, or probably at all for that matter. It's just not that good, and if I wanted to go hiking (which is about what "climbing" the RA amounts to), there are plenty of hikes and scrambles that are less crowded, with better ambiance.
What, are you crazy? This is Yosemite Valley bro.
Right. Reflectors would be insane...nothing at all like a guy with a telescope counting the pimples on your ass during your morning dump, or touron laden green dragons broadcasting over a loudspeaker "if you look to your left, you'll see K-Man engaged in technical rock scaling", "controlled" burns that set the god@##%n world on fire and quickly get "uncontrolled", Mayberry Syndrome flathats scared of their own f*#king shadows pointing AR-15s at random civilians (me!) with no muzzle control, Art museums, ice rinks, delis.
I mean c'mon! This is Yosemite Valley, bro. Land of pristine wilderness experiences. LMFAO. (Again, for the record, I am firmly against reflectors...but not enough to do anything more than spray about it on the interwebz. Sure ain't going up there to remove it if someone did do it.)
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:21am PT
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THERE MAY BE PERIODS OF INTENSE WHINING, REMINISCING, AND RECOLLECTIONS OF HOMO HUDDLING
No doubt, anyone trying to spoon me better have a damn serious emergency.
-1 for reflectors
+1 for chop route and make a new one going straight down, every 29 meters.
+1 also for putting instruction plaques at certain points on the route, but they can be unobtrusive and just part of the existing anchors.
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Travis Haussener
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:26am PT
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In all seriousness, a left-field suggestion, but why not a sign at the beginning that reads something like: If you are inexperienced (so everyone) and don't have a headlamp, trail shoes, and ascenders you will be fined regardless of time of day, speed of climbing, etc.
Also go run or bike trails in Moab, the slickrock has markers like paved roads so the 4-wheelers don't get lost, it's not that far from a reality in the valley, all things considered
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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Chop the rap route and it will reappear with a new set of holes. This is a WELL established rap route. Might as well chop the East Ledges rap route too, you can walk off the Falls trail...
If the NDG was at the top of RA I'd use it everytime. But if it's the choice of hiking a mile east, doing the NDG, and then returning a mile west, vs. a rap route that is right at the finish and start of the climb I'll take the raps. Many free soloists even carry a light line for rappeling.
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:31am PT
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now off to get my T checked!
It's low
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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That last pitch can be a bit spooky for some of us. I was telling someone this once and he said that there are 3 ways to cross that slab. One high, the one in the book, and one low. He said the lower one is bolted and is the original way. He also said that the center way is only 5.6, it's faster, thats the way everyone goes, and that's why it's in the guide.
Anyone know if this is true?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:34am PT
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I've come across people on the hike down from Half Dome at night with no headlamps/lights. Perhaps we should install lights on the side of the trail like those along the aisles in movie theaters?
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:35am PT
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The most interesting part of this stupid thread is the many ways thought up to torture Werner. Here is mine:
Require all Royal Arches aspirants to wear bright flashing reflectors and require Werner to monitor all progress through a telescope. He will then spring into action if any problems are noted.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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I hope you plan to chop every fixed pin, every bolted anchor station, every rap station in the valley too...
you haven't seen my "chop list," if you want to contribute a route, just tell me, I'll put it on the list...
(just to play the "devil's advocate")
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 10:37am PT
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I think that if there is any value in the thoughts of going reflective, the sure way to do it is by painting the Rap Hangers with reflective paint. You would just need a big dab. Werner has the link. Just the Rap Hangers for the route. This could become something for other long routes that are newbie destinations in the valley. Now, have any of you read the up coming New Park Widerness laws regarding climbing in National Parks?...maybe this is only Seki, but we could just be peeing into the wind with the thought of any anchors at all! It goes into effect this year.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:43am PT
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if you want to contribute a route, just tell me, I'll put it on the list
Go whack those Skinner bolts on Jesus Built My Hotrod. Klaus would probably loan you tools and buy you some OE for the trouble.
I like convenience. Except the Circle K (in JT and in Riverside), nothing convenient about 9-deep lineups and one cashier, meth heads begging change and hiding in the bushes, while teenage gangbangers get amped on their 84oz buckets of soda. God bless America!
EDIT:
free OE would be a disincentive Good point. '83 Bordeaux?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:44am PT
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free OE would be a disincentive...
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