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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Jul 20, 2006 - 02:46am PT
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But ALDUDE, have you ever seen him play piano? Fahq bro, one of my roomates had some bootleg video of a concert circa mid-90s. As a guitar player of 20 years myself, I was blown away by his playing, but when he sat down at the piano and ripped off a sick flight of the bumblebee morphing into improv and eventually into one of his songs.... HO LEE SH#T. The man is a god.
Met him once in an elevator in a building that housed the "urban contemporary" radio station in Atlanta, Georgia while on a job in '96 or thereabouts. Tiny dude. He must be 5'6" or so.
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Jul 20, 2006 - 08:51am PT
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dingus gunkie that free soloed supercrack 5.12+ then after soloing he fell on supercrack while on TR was Russ Clune.
why are so many climbers concerned about what others do? just climb and jerkoff
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Jul 20, 2006 - 09:35am PT
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NO Sh!t.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 20, 2006 - 10:20am PT
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As long as Reardon isn't fu**ing us up like Dean Potter, who cares.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Jul 20, 2006 - 10:40am PT
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I've climbed a few times with Mike. I've seen him climb hard routes and easy routes. Even years ago he was out on the rocks more than anyone else I know. He practices alot. therefore, when I see pictures of him soloing hard routes I think it's really nice to see someone accomplish these things after working so hard and practicing so much.
Funny how he and potter both seem to get a little assbite when they shoot for the spotlight though...
Whatever the case, I think MR should run for office, 'cause he sure gets the press.
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joeblow
climber
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:21pm PT
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So JIMB, I guess you don't like my screen name? haha! Too bad!
Since nobody else would, I posted a factual account(including the name of a crediable witness known to many) of what was visable from Lunch Rock over the course of one hour. After that we got bored with the circus and went climbing. It is entirely possible, as Wes stated, that Mike "did all the moves clean, two times." after we left. Hell I've seen a 13 year old girl follow and clean that route without falling. What many of us there that day found ironic was that so much wankery was required before he could solo a route he claims to have soloed three times in the past and is quite a bit easier than routes he clains to have onsight FSed. I guess Mike was lucky that there wasn't a feather or something on RW the day he claimed to have done it.
Oh yea, does your mother know you kiss her with that mouth of your? What a loser!
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JAK
climber
Central NC
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Jul 20, 2006 - 04:21pm PT
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Originally Posted By Hardman
just climb and jerkoff
Well, what do you think this thread is?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 20, 2006 - 07:51pm PT
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The more I think about it, the section of the Vampire that would like some rehearsal before a solo would be the 11a thin traverse. If I were working it a few times on TR, I'd be yelling "take" to get back over and do it again. If the belayer gave you too much slack you'd be down in unclimbable hassle land.
So I'm going to take "Reardon is vindicated (at least regarding the Vampire) by solo video someday" for a case of green Labels. Anybody want to bet against him?
Peace
Karl
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Austin, TX to South LakeTahoe, CA
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Jul 20, 2006 - 08:51pm PT
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If Bachar says he's a badass, I'm tempted to believe that Mike solo'd the stuff he says he has.
1) joeblow's account doesn't mean anything - at all. Who cares if you saw him toproping? I've seen 5.14 climbers toproping and taking on 5.8s. It doesn't diminish their prowess, nor their accomplishments, nor does it make their word suspect. He was probably pullin' your chain, for Pete's sake! And if there's a slabby section, in this heat!?! I'd be yelling take, too! I've definitely sent climbs on cold days that just wouldn't go on a hot, greasy day - usually friction dependent SLABS.
2) The pix in Climbing were taken in real life, no rope. He didn't do the crux that day, said the photog, but he did do some of the harder parts of the climb, with massive exposure. That makes me believe in it.
3) Who cares? If he didn't solo what he said he did, then he's a f#cking loser. If he did, that's a hell of an accomplishment. Other than that, who cares?
4) STFU, Go climb and jerkoff.
5) I'm still glad to read a climbing thread - thanks!
-Aaron
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 20, 2006 - 10:14pm PT
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There is a syndrome regarding climbers who are confident, like themselves a lot, and have a tendency to self-promote. It rubs some folks the wrong way and they diss em, don't believe em, and look for the worst in em.
Personally, I found that they are mostly a bunch that is also friendly to others, smart and fun so I have a few friends like that. Climbers that have found themselves in this category are Hans, Skinner, Reardon, PTPP, and others.
If Reardon was in the right club, and pretended to be modest and self effacing, folks wouldn't be so suspicious.
But, hey, we all have our faults. I've been surprised how quickly Dean Potter went from God to Dog in the esteem of the internet chatter. Maybe it goes both ways.
Some of these kinda competitive promoter types are sometimes found to use techniques to maximize their advantage and results, but those results can still be impressive and ahead of their time.
Who want's to lose a case of green labels? Swill talks, BS walks, (and climbs)
Peace
Karl
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 20, 2006 - 10:22pm PT
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Was it the alias of "Clark Jacobs" by any chance?
JMO-After climbing with a bunch of southern boyz no one's ever heard of, I'm just not that convinced that 5.12 is really that hard for a lot of guys...at least not the Buschville fellas. Maybe that sounds like heresy but there's a ton of strong people all over that you've never met.
~on the 12 cracks I've redpointed, the pro seemed to be more the issue, more than the moves...eschew the rope and the pro and what, maybe V4, V5 moves? Throw in some "urban training" (as Reardon did on concrete, similar to Yaniro's training for the Grand Ill) and that "gnarly stem" pitch just isn't so...
It (5.12) is still tough for me though, admittedly. Specially if it's not slopes...
...speaking of hard solos in the Gunks, wasn't Franklin the first 5.13 (domestic) free solo? Antoine LeMenestral (sic) was free soloing the hardest route in Britain (Revelations, 13b? iirc) way back in the 80's so it's not like soloing mid 12 is a technical groundbreaking standard...that's part of the reason why I believe Reardon. If it is untrue, what an elaborate hoax...
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Jul 21, 2006 - 10:37am PT
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426 yes franklin on survival of the fittest
hey JAK off this thread is a bunch of fluff. people wanting to be like Mike but in no way can so they just talk doo doo.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2006 - 10:53am PT
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I don't really know or care what the deal is with Reardon.
For all that has been thrown around, I can't see any basis for judgment one way or the other.
I don't think the majority of people who oppose the reportage do it out of jealousy.
Sure, some people just like to pick at scabs and point a cruel finger for an odd sort of insecure fun.
Some do it out of a heightened sense of integrity; they feel they have worked hard to attain a certain mastery in something which they love and are incensed by the smell of a sham.
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SWilliams
Boulder climber
Santa Monica
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Jul 21, 2006 - 01:16pm PT
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"He could shut everyone up simply by soloing at the level he claims to be at, in front of credible, disinterested witnesses, which everyone knows should be no problem if he really was at that level."
He's hanging with JB and the two of them are soloing from Joshua Tree to Tuolomne (and both went to The Grit, with a Mexico trip planned from what I hear) with more witnesses than you can count, that's about as credible and disinterested as a climber could ever ask. Homo Joe, were't you personally invited to Joshua Tree to hang with the men, then begged off like a coward? You missed out - tic tic boom, baby, the bomb's exploding in your face like the little boy you're dating. And I was there when the man himself stopped in the gym and all you did was cry. Soloing at Tahquitz in this kind of heat after a rainstorm? If he had soloed the Vampire after all that, then I'd believe the man's crazy, but waiting for better temps, that's someone enjoying another day of climbing. Besides, haters will always be haters regardless of what he does. Happens to every climber.
Beer and free shoes from Karl and Bachar, the stakes are getting bigger. Who's putting up the lifetime of strippers?
Sean
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todd-gordon
climber
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Jul 21, 2006 - 02:28pm PT
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Mike is a unique fellow. I find it strange how many people he gets all pissed off at him.....it's unfortunate, because I do believe he's pretty much a good, fun-loving, climber who loves to climb. Whenever anyone talks of Mike on the internet, it ALWAYS moves to slander, name-calling, and disbelief....ALWAYS....guareenteed...you can set your watch to it. Mike is NOT done wowing the climbing world....be it with outrageous climbs, stunts, or claims.....It's sticky business for people who have magazines or websites;...I've had many conversations with Mike about people who slander him in print or on the net;.....he is a person with feelings, and has a beautiful wife and lovely child who sometimes end up getting slandered too. Listening to Mike talk about lawsuits and fisticuffs is NOT my idea of a good time. I, personally, chose to have nothing to do with any of this;....I am a climber, teacher, and X3 dad now. I have a wesite (joshuatreeclimb.com) which USED to have people who posted mean and disrespectful stuff about Mike and his antics. I now have a Mike-free site, for reasons I feel are obvious to me and my lifestyle, and the person I am. Most people respect this, and I am thankful for that. I do try to be kind, supportive, and respectful to all climbers and people in general. It's tough being a climbing "celebrity"...especially a colorful, mysterious, funky, and kooky as Mike is. My suggestion, at this point is......let him do his thing, WHATEVER it is, sit back and watch, ease up on the slander (Most of which has already been said MANY times already), and enjoy the show. Yeah; alot of people don't believe this or that;....try not to get too worked up about this....it aint' going away, and don't we have enough stuff in our lives to piss us off about? Same for Mike....he's got enough things to get worked about;... he don't need YOU to add to it.....Let's let wars, gas prices, our jobs, and city traffic piss us off. Most importantly, Mike's wife and his child don't need the trickle-down angst that is generated by climbers who can't handle Mike's climbing style, his mouth , or amazing feats or claims. I wish him well, and hope that , in his future, good vibes , good climbs, and good feelings can be generated by this amazingly talented and energetic dude. I think we aint' seen nothing yet.....he's just getting warmed up.... with his climbing, his antics, his spray, and his claims......
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 21, 2006 - 03:01pm PT
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Todd said, " I do try to be kind, supportive, and respectful to all climbers and people in general."
AMEN to that. If someone was stealing your car you'd be offering them gas for the drive. Topshelf, man!
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Jul 21, 2006 - 03:46pm PT
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Don't know the man, don't care about his claims one way or another.
But Todd, you seem to step on your dick everytime you launch into one of these format challenged, incoherent rantings.
"Mike's wife and his child don't need the trickle-down angst that is generated by climbers who can't handle Mike's climbing style, his mouth "
If his running off at the mouth is having a "trickle-down" effect on his family, perhaps he should shut said mouth. You can't take sides in an issue like this because it takes two to tango baby. You put all the blame on people who bad mouth him, yet you seem to ignore his own complicity in the matter. By purposely putting yourself into the public arena, promoting yourself etc, you put have some responsibility for the effects that publicity/notoriety may have on you and/or your family. Ask any politician, movie star, etc.
It doesn't make the detractors right or good, but when you take that step into the public arena, particularly Reardon knowing full well as a hollywood guy what that entails, then your choice has as much to do with any "angst" that the family feels.
FWIW (nothing), I think the guy did what he said he did. I know plenty of climbers who are physically capable of pulling it off and I'd give 10:1 that none of you have ever heard of any of them.
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Sandy
climber
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Jul 21, 2006 - 04:19pm PT
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ha ha.
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todd-gordon
climber
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Jul 21, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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Remember....we cannot control Mike, what he does, says, or claims to do. We can control ourselves. Saying that Mike should do this or do that is all fine, but in the end, he seems to do as he pleases. Now we must think what WE can do OURSELVES........I don't think Mike is going to change dramatically,..... it's time for us to step up and get control over what WE can control; that is OUR reaction to Mike's climbing, style, spray, and claims.
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Jul 21, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
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>>> I know plenty of climbers who are physically capable of pulling it off...
Onsight FS Romantic Warrior. I guess 'physically' is the important distinction here.
Know anybody simply 'capable' of pulling it off ?
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