keep tahoe Bold.

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 61 - 80 of total 181 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber

da ow

Aug 15, 2013 - 12:43pm PT

Yes Footloose it is mine.

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Aug 15, 2013 - 12:58pm PT

gumby, cool!

Looks like you've been busy!

As you're probably already aware, Wrights and Woodfords link to Luther.
Still a work in progress?

Inspiring site photos!
In fact, I just may visit Shakespeare today or tomorrow,
so thanks.

i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber

da ow

Aug 15, 2013 - 01:13pm PT

Yeah, still a work in progress. the Luther spires page was the template for the section so any incomplete pages still link there. i have enough content to do everything but woodfords and the loaf, just trying to find the time to write it all, climb, work my real job and spend time with the kids is tough. and the dogs take up as much time as the kids dammit.

GhoulweJ

Trad climber

El Dorado Hills, CA

Aug 15, 2013 - 01:15pm PT

^^^^^^^^^
Sell the kids.

Dr. Christ

Mountain climber

State of Mine

Aug 15, 2013 - 01:15pm PT

now claiming to be the "ol man of tahoe"...

When did I claim that, Mr. Carson?

they are not locals because they don't climb enough.

In regards to local climbing ethics.... You're correct, they are NOT locals.

Interesting. So how many times a week does someone who was born in Tahoe and who has been climbing for 10 years need to climb before they are considered a local climber? And if they have lived and/or climbed here for 20 years but have lately only been getting out once a month, do they lose their local status?

Dr. Christ

Mountain climber

State of Mine

Aug 15, 2013 - 01:46pm PT

Rong, every time I piss in the woods, it goes into YOUR drinking water.

Dr. Christ

Mountain climber

State of Mine

Aug 15, 2013 - 02:05pm PT

Yeah, if I were a CARSON CITY local I'd "know" (rather think) that. But in fact, ya'll use ground water out there... ground water that originated UP HERE.

But when I leave Tahoe and head down to THE VALLEY, I only piss on Mcllelans.

patrick compton

Trad climber

van

Aug 15, 2013 - 02:12pm PT

christ, no one on the site is more HARDCORE than the Ronski. The Stonededmasters bow to him in all his glory.

Pie

Trad climber

So-Cal

Aug 15, 2013 - 04:05pm PT

Keep Tahoe Woo! SF and Hwood Woo!

Dr. Christ

Mountain climber

State of Mine

Aug 16, 2013 - 12:08am PT

Just saw a sticker: Keep Tahoe Washoe

Liked it

bergbryce

Mountain climber

California

Aug 16, 2013 - 02:09am PT

I am here to post in this very important thread.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 08:47am PT

i don't expect to change the minds and hearts of
the established aspect of our flock whom deem that
more bolts are justified;

but i do hope to provide a perspective for
the up-and-comers whom are entering this domain
with curious inquisition, and innocence;

we are their immediate predecessors, with scrutinous
eyes upon us.

i am thankful for the likes of Salamanizer who
lightens his foot in the mountains, by asking
more of his Body and Soul,

and in doing so upholds the unspoken commandment:

(that was / is scribed in stone by heroes like robbins, bachar, smith, crawford, sumner, and other tahoe suitors that comprise our heritage)

travel thru while minimizing your wake, and thus communicate your
respect and adoration of our vertical environment.

continually ask more of yourself as a climber: tap new wells of
courage, creativity and resolve when you build your sollution to
the infinite riddles of the mountain.

dont just pound stakes admiring your sparks when stimied or scared.

Branscomb

Trad climber

Lander, WY

Aug 16, 2013 - 11:41am PT

I can't say I've always risen to my best in boldness, as Vardanega and Don Garrett can testify, but my best memories of climbing are when I did manage to commit to doing it or else.

My take is that when we chip holds to make it possible for our feeble abilities or bolt up something that maybe doesn't need it, but we do it because we're afraid, well those things are a permanent thing. It will never be the same as when we first found and dreamed it.

If for whatever reasons in our heads we alter it to bring it into our ability, then we take away from the future generations of climbers the magic of seeing that stone and maybe doing it in a style that does make for the kind of memories I have of the best climbs I have done.

That's the big rip-off to my mind, to take away that opportunity from future generations just so I can have head rush today. We need to have a bigger sense of responsibility when we consider our actions and not just think it's about mememe.

RonV

Trad climber

Placerville

Aug 16, 2013 - 11:51am PT

but i do hope to provide a perspective for
the up-and-comers whom are entering this domain
with curious inquisition, and innocence;

Well said Chuck.

Bob, you ARE my hero.

Stewart Johnson

climber

lake forest

Aug 16, 2013 - 12:03pm PT

Tahoe. Where Gaks dont stray too far from the homogenized and repetitive boring roadside crags. There is still adventure and solitude for those that care to leave their guidebooks at home!

Dr. Christ

Mountain climber

State of Mine

Aug 16, 2013 - 12:46pm PT

Just to be clear, I haven't claimed to be a local anywhere since 2002. And I certainly don't advocate adding bolts to existing lines, unless done with the FA's blessing (or in some cases the overwhelming consensus of the community).

the sport routes i put up have zero cred in my memory banks.

Isn't Led Zep Arete a spurt climb? Seems you were kind of fond of that one. I know others really enjoyed it. What about Lightning Dream? If I recall that is another stellar spurt climb. You may not have put it up, but clearly it is a worthy spurt climb.

They were just more bolted face climbs.

So, you just piss bolts all over a rock face like it was a $2 throw away whore... and then preach to others about sound ethics and respect for the rock? You ever consider a career as an actual preacher and/or politician?

Once done there was no celebrations really. Just the day was over and another bolted face climb added.

And it was okay for you to do because you just didn't care... but it is not okay for some kid to do it these days because we NEED to keep Tahoe "bold?"

In all honesty, I'm just trying to understand the double standard here... you guys could do it because it was the '80's and you were young... but young climbers these days can't do it because they have to keep it bold, because you said so?

Dr. Christ

Mountain climber

State of Mine

Aug 16, 2013 - 01:02pm PT

So with your 20/20 hindsight you think you should not have bolted those faces and want to pass that wisdom onto the younger generations? That is so sweet. But what if they see a face that just looks fun to climb and just want to bolt it so they can climb it... which I assume is what you did. Are you saying they shouldn't do it and the climbing community should not condone it?

To return the kind gesture/wisdom, should someone climb all your bolted faces with natural pro and pull the bolts to keep them more "pure" and "bold?"

i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber

da ow

Aug 16, 2013 - 01:11pm PT

Another way to look at it could be, 'Would your hindsight be the same if your previous foresight had been different?'
In other words, why deny the current generation the ability gain hindsight on their own, through their own actions and experiences like you did.

Blizzard

Trad climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Aug 16, 2013 - 01:17pm PT

Heylo peoples,
since this is a keep tahoe bold thread i was wondering if you guys got any tips for climbing trad routes ground up? Im young and dumb and have never had a mentor in climbing. I came from the beach to the mtns and learned climbing with books, trials, and tribulations. I've pulled off some widow makers and chopped a rope before and figured trying to learn on my own is not only dangerous to me but the partners i sandbag into joining me. tHat doesnt mean i am going to stop doing it, it just means i am gonna think more and seek advice before doing it again. So far I have learned basic common sense stuff like keep your belayer out of the rock fall zone. have the follower trundle the big stuff. throw small rocks on the wall away from da crag. place loose rock on a ledge if it is available. Yes i understand that i know nothing. Just seeking advice here. I am wondering about tag lines and their pros and cons also. Thanks for all the insight you guys provide.

-Bruce McIntosh