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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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Morning Wayne County Big Rocks Bump. Let's streeeeetch for that first hold, er, I mean cup of coffee....
Four great problems on this little nugget, V4 - V7. Collect 'em all!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
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Fully dripping with self-irony.
When it comes to subtle self-depriciation, understated elegance, effortless finishing school manners, inconspicuous class, jaw-dropping climbing technique, exquisite taste in boulders, proper grooming, and raw animal magnetism with the fairer sex, you'll find no two finer exemplars then the American Legend and his early mentor, the Master Cylinder.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
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No climbing at Calf Creek. Decent swimming holes but often way too crowded for my tastes -- Hell, I went there once and there were FOUR OTHER PEOPLE. F*#k that sh#t.
Long Canyon is a well- developed crack climbing area. Just drive slow, scope the splitters, and look for anchors. Altough Capitol Reef is just as deserted, has better crack climbing (imho) and has a brand-new spankin' guide with all the new stuff (1999 -2012) included.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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Got any graphic pics from The Flesh Pits area out at Big Rocks? Great low budget horror film bouldering...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
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Oh yeah, but they're all on my HD back in Flagstaff! Of course, the dog owners would clamor for the deactivation of my acount...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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The air is just feeling too damn thick at 7,000 feet, so let's return to the high-altitude pleasuring grounds of Wayne County's greatest gift to bouldering, The Horn, shall we? But whats this?! The American Legend is FALLING?! Say it ain't so, Joe. Tangerine Dreams, Henry Mountains.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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Not to worry. Like Buhl on Nanga Parbat, our hero rallies and emerges from the shadows of the spectacular Center Route on The Triangle...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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...and then moves along over for some funluvin' pocket pullin' facepimpin' in the sun. Boom!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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This place is in South-Central Utah, Cozmix, in and around Torrey, Utah, Capitol Reef National Park, and the Henry Mountains. I lived and was active there from 1993 to 2002. I'm in Flagstaff now, but now that I'm retired I'm thinking it'd be really fun to rent a house in Torrey some summer and knock around the old haunts. The hiking, Sandstone Dome mountaineering, and techinical slot canyons are to die for as well. Tons of roped climbing at all grades.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
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Like this thing right here, Cosmic. Walker Peak. Extraordinarily good outing. About 700' of climbing from the base, and the trailhead is literally 15 minutes from downtown Torrey. The views from the top take in the whole of the Colorado Plateau. Lots of technical "scambling" with some easy 5th Class here and there. About 5 hours from car to car at a leisurely pace. My record is 67 minutes. I used to run up this thing during my lunch hour, or during routine NPS "patrols" to, uh, you know, ensure the resources were all intact n' sh#t. Capitol Reef has dozens of remote "dome-aneering" summits like this one.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
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This thing is super fun. Same trailhead, 15 minutes from Torrey. An honest 15 minutes, not some bullshit bait-and-switch 15 minutes. 9 miles on the odometer. This is just the summit cap. There's a bit of exciting 5.7 up there. Stupendous location with 360 degree views of the most remote and least-visited wilderness on the Colorado Plateau. Makes the Maze look like Times Square on New Year's Eve.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 01:08am PT
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Another widescreen view of the dome in the previous photo. The dome on the far right is the K2 of Capitol Reef domeaineering adventures. I did it with John Wason and Ho Man! Summitting the thing without placing bolts was sporty. 5.10 choss with a super mank belay. Nothing for a rap anchor on top, even by Canyonlands standards, so the first one down gets to downclimb the pitch with a TR, the last one down gets to downclimb the pitch with a belay from below by his shuddering partner, but looking at a massive whipper. We found a small pile of children's bones on top. Is it just me, or does this look like a bunch of boobs?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 01:43am PT
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But, lest we give Mungeclimber a coronary with these shimmering images of 5-Star Choss, let's get back to those dew-dappled fresh boulders at Big Rocks, where glitter falls from a twinkling sky, sparkle ponies nuzzle and coo, rainbows radiate on the diamond horizon, unicorns roam free, and lone American Legends with Clint Eastwood resolve and Bonattish committment make whoopie with the "GUD" stuff, m'kay? After all, we're gonna die! So we may as well git sum while the gittin's good.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jan 26, 2013 - 03:33am PT
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Mungeknocketty knock knocking scare ball domeing.
*like*
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 26, 2013 - 03:43am PT
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Wow! This thread is amazing, thanks BVB for so many killer shots & stories. True gold right here. The place looks as good as it gets.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 03:51am PT
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Here's another, better view of Walker Peak. We gotta go do this someday Mungie. U wood lyke I think. Seriously, once in a while I would disappear from the office from time to time for a quick solo lap. It has a summit register and everything! Then you can mosey 20 miles up the road to BIG ROCKS! Not a single stop light or stop sign along the way to slow you down. Sub-20 minute drive if you're ballin'.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:08am PT
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This one was a real thriller. The Matterhorn of Capitol Reef. We actually placed a single bolt -- unheard of. Five star summit. Doubt it's seen a repeat. I'd climb these things as a palate cleanser between week-long bouldering binges.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:39am PT
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Of course, if you absolutely MUST have splitters, here's Steph Davis on a little ditty I put up in 1994. It's (gasp!) 25 minutes from Torrey, with a ten minute approach. Pretty sure the anchor bolts must still be good.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
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I understand there is some "serious business" afoot in our little supertopo alpine peyton place. I can't imagine anything more "serious" than waking up in Wayne County. There are 5,000 unclimbed five-star probems, and those are just the ones you know about. Seriously, you're f*#ked.
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