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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 23, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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I hereby dedicate this thread to some wildly remote and underappreciated bouldering areas that deserves a little bit of goddamn respect. The endless jewels of Wayne County, Utah, Colorado Plateau, United States of America.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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Anybody else climbed here? It's worthy.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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Not to worry Cosmic, I have photos of topless females crushing V6's there like nobody's business. Hope the h8ers can cope.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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This one is killer. The center route on The Brain. Furious, hard slapper moves from one sloper to another out a roof, desperately heel hooking all the way, and just when you start to feel pumped you have to deal with this hideous crimpfest finish. Visiting SLC people swore it was V6. We called it Big Rocks 5.11c. Snow-covered 12,000-foot high plateau mountains in the background.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 23, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
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I Love BIG ROCKS and undersung areas!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 23, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
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I'm lichen it!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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This problem is still one of my all-time favorites. Powercrimps through a bulge, some letterbox slots in the steep, then a knee-knocking finish on slopers with a leg-cracking landing. I don't think I ever named it. What was the point? At this stage I'd been bouldering there day after day, week after week, alone, for over 7 years. the only climber for miles. Closest other climbers were in Moab, 160 miles away. The new Wayne County guidebook calls it V4 X.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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It's the price of being an American Legend. Shit's expensive, right?
I'm digging on yer pics.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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So it's in Arizona?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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This is The Whiffleball. A bit spicy, but nbd. Swear to God we had like 15 problems lined up side-by-side on this spectacularly good little nugget. Here is Jocelyn airing it out a bit. Wish I had a better scanner 'cause this does not do it justice. Apparently some of the problems -- including this one -- have become lame-ass three-bolt sport routes. Next time I go there those bolts are history.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
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I know a guy that does bolt removal, for a small fee. ;)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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An entirely worthy warm-up. Early March 2004? Even at 7,500 feet, if the sun is out and there's no wind you're in there. It's nice and cool in the summer, too. Love this private playground.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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Another bad scanned photo of a swank, swank boulder: The Rabbit Valley Overhang. There are four problems tacking this stellar roof on bullet stone. This thing is V4 in the new guide; the crack on the right -- Vapor Lock -- is called V5. Buncha 5.11c's if ya ask me. Kids these days...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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Big Rocks from...OUTER SPACE! Great place to eat 'shrooms. All the problems pictured so far are in this snapshot; this snapshot is maybe 1/10th of the total area.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:37am PT
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OMFG BOOBS! Please God don't let t*r become upset with me and petition the BLM to have Big Boobs, er I mean BIG ROCKS quarried to ensure no impressionable young college moisties, uh, I mean freshies, ah, I mean Freshman become ADDICTED to the DEMEANING sport of BOULDERING there! OMFG I am so upset right now I need to go sprinkle some glitter on my copy of "Our Bodies, Ourselves" and cuddle with my Unicorn!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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Cosmic...I sense some objectification coming from you....you'd better cover your O's...RJ
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:16am PT
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Cosmic...Quit stalking me...RJ
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:17am PT
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Great shots and history, Bob - Ah, the salad days...
Erik
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Red leaf for me, friend. :)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 01:47am PT
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Seriously, there's just no way to go wrong with this fine little stone. The thing I'm on is a thrilling little V3ish problem that pulls an itty bitty roof on hyper-committing slopers. Do. Not. Fall. Best problem EVER goes directly up the middle of the white streak on absurd slopers, then grapples the roof. Scary and very committing at the top. No name, but it's way harder than other problems that have been tagged V5 or V6 by others. I'm thinking...wait for it...you guessed it...BIG ROCKS 5.11c!
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