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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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Hey,
Thanks for all the cool comments and support everyone. Coz good to hear from you. We were on quite a roll there for a while. Praque, Malta, Vancouver. That rig we built in Prague was something. Maybe I'll try to dig up some photos of that.
Chappy
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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From my drive back to my house this morning, I could see lots of ice near the top of Patterson Bluff. Unfortunately, I live too close to the foothills to see Tollhouse, but I wonder if we have some once-in-a-lifetime mixed or ice routes there. My oral pre-nup with my wife prohibits frozen waterfalls, but is silent about dry tooling . . .
John
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Michelle
Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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One set mismatched tools, wet down bags, flashlight, frozen cheese cube meal, tied off icicle (Wtf) nd no flask (the horror). Awesome!
But seriously, what happened to the tools?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
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My oral pre-nup with my wife prohibits frozen waterfalls, but is silent about dry tooling . . .
That's because masturbation is rarely covered in pre-nups!
Rub one out then bro!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
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RE: your photos
Are they scanned slides, negatives or prints?
E-mail a couple of your original digital files to me, and I'll see what I can do with them in Photoshop. Just a couple.
If I can do anything with them, we'll talk more about the rest of the photos.
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fosburg
climber
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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Thanks Mark, great stuff! It's difficult to imagine how committing a climb like that must have felt back then; truly inspiring!
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
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Very cool to see those photos! Thanks for posting Mark. Amazing to imagine doing those pitches with original Chouinard Piolets as your best tool! You and Kevin pulled off one of the Great (bad ass, super bold) Adventures in North American climbing.
Peter
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 11, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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We had one set of tools between us which we had to lower to the second after each pitch.
And now look at you ...
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jan 11, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
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I was loving the Chouinard Piolet hanging way up high........way up firm and high
This is a great story
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 11, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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hey there say, coz.... i don't know you well here, yet... but thanks for sharing about how you traveled with my brother...
say, and yes, as to this:
Mark is also one of the all time riggers, Academy award winner and has mentor many, including myself. We traveled the world together and it never stop to amaze me how tough Mark was and cool under pressure
there is nothing like "self-dicipline" ... something to be sought after...
for sure... and a treausre when one has it...
wow, and HUGE yes, to this--funny too, kind of--we all DO it in
our family... think we learned it from my mom (VERY old-school, she is, to her humble credit)as to the mention of the CLOTHES as we brave the weather:
One winter in Prague, the average temperature was about 6 below, and large icicles grew on our flying camera rig, that sat 120 feet in the air, I was layered in all the latest cloths and Mark wore blue jeans and an old fleece coat even in driving snow and wind. He never seemed to get cold, or wet
odd, too, even my aunt ellen, that i recently had finaly seen again, dressed the same, as to the elements, :))
sometimes, i think you can recognize us 'chapmans' by our mode of attire, that way, :))
thanks again, coz... fun stuff to read, from my point of view, too!
as WELL as all the great climbing info and stories....
as again, i have to say:
knowing the times--the photos are priceless!
one of 'part of history' never to be seen in such a way, again...
or set to story, in such a ways, either...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 12, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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Great stuff Mark and Kevin!
Looking forward to the Silver Strand collection.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 12, 2013 - 11:59am PT
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Super freaking impressive!
I don't climb ice, but your ascent has always struck a chord with me as one of the most out there, beautiful, badass things I've heard of in the valley.
Balls of steel.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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I was leaving the Valley to go to Mammoth for the winter skiing.
As I came around the Valley loop to Pohono Bridge there I saw Chappy and Warbler on the road.
I asked: "Wasup man?"
They said we're looking at this big ass frozen waterfall up there thinking about doing it.
I look up and go "Holy Sh!t" !!!!!
And run away .......
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jan 12, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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Absolutely fabulous photos, story, and climb! Inspiring AWE in the rest of us! You two can be more than proud of your achievements. Like others, I look forward to the Silver Strand story and photos!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jan 12, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
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super cool.
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