Widows Tear FA photos

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chappy

Social climber

ventura

Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 10, 2013 - 02:40pm PT

With the recent ascent of the Widow's Tear and interest in Yosemite ice climbing I thought I would post these photos. Unfortunately, they are not of the best quality (we were lucky to have the money to buy any film at the time)and some originals have been lost or loaned out (Bullwinkle!). The first photo of the route itself wasn't taken when we climbed it but was from 1983. I wanted an overall route photo. Plus, in this photo you can clearly see the fracture point about two pitches from the top. The last four pitches of the route sweep up from the upper series of traverse ledges to a steep headwall just below the fracture point. This is one of the crux sections of the route and I took a long fall here which I miraculously survived (crampons on my feet, leashed to two axes and no helmet). Retreat or rescue from here with a badly injured climber would have been dicey at that time. Kevin and my attempts to climb the route followed a long January warm spell. We were having fun climbing in the lower canyon when a series of late winter storms arrived and the route began to reform. We attempted to hit it on a cold snap following one of these storms and our persistence eventually paid off--just barely. We would typically bivy at the base to get an early start. After one retreat in bad conditions we came back to find that upper bulge had fallen off and completely wiped out our bivy area. It was quite impressive really. Large chunks of ice and avalanche debris everywhere. We learned quick and moved our bivy far off to the side beneath some sheltering overhangs. When that upper section filled in enough to appear climbable we went for it. Our first day we climbed to the first series of traverse ledges in about four pitches and found a sheltered cave far to the left of the main route. The warm mid day temperatures caused a lot lot of ice fall that cut our climbing days short. The next day we traversed back right on the obvious ramp and climbed two steep pitches before falling ice and debris forced us off right to once again seek shelter. Kevin's lead of the steep middle pitch, a combination of poorly protected steep ice, rotten snow and rock was a thing of climbing genius. The last day began with one of the best pitches of the route. Moderately steep climbing on superb ice. Then it was up through the steep bulge with all its nightmare qualities and, at last, past the fracture line to the final two realtively easy pitches. I remember my boots were like sponges on the descent. We slogged our way along the rim and then followed a gully down to the tunnel where we walked nearly to El Cap meadow before somebody gave us lift back to Camp 4. We raided the junk food machine at the lodge for some food. The pictures are roughly in order. Notice the running water on the wall above Kevin in the first two climbing photos. Those pictures are from an unsuccessful attempt. The third climbing photo (Kev's in a white sweater)show the first pitch on our actual ascent.

Srbphoto

climber

Kennewick wa

Jan 10, 2013 - 02:43pm PT

they're so bad I can't see them.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Jan 10, 2013 - 02:43pm PT

YAAAY CHAPPY'S HERE!!!

But where are the photos?

Good to hear/see/read you man.

chappy

Social climber

ventura

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 02:43pm PT

Sorry for the teaser everyone but the damn thing won't let me upload pics from my computer. I click the photo link get the upload pics from computer page click this and then the next page doesn't work except for the cancel button?? Hopefully I will figure this out soon.
Chappy

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Jan 10, 2013 - 02:46pm PT

Sometimes mine goes glacial Mark. After clicking upload, it just takes a while for it to get to the "DONE" icon.

Maybe just my computer or connection speed, but I def have to just wait it out once in a while.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Jan 10, 2013 - 02:57pm PT

Great addition to the forum even without the photos. Bravo to you guys for having the sack (or stupidity?) to climb this thing first! Can't wait to climb it some day. Hopefully soon.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Jan 10, 2013 - 02:57pm PT

Sounds like chappy is trying to upload huge pics and st is choking on them!

Great story!!

RP3

Big Wall climber

El Portal/Chapel Hill

Jan 10, 2013 - 03:02pm PT

Fantastic story. I can't wait for the pictures!

WBraun

climber

Jan 10, 2013 - 03:18pm PT

It's the java script security setting in your browser, Mark.

I have the problem with Firefox because I have my security settings really clamped down because it's my main browser that I use on the internet.

No bad sh!t gets through, ... :-)

Instead of changing my settings for uploading photos here I just go to Internet Explorer and and use that when I need to upload photos onto this site.

chappy

Social climber

ventura

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 03:20pm PT

Guys,
I copied the photos to my laptop and was making progress and then after seven photos it went bonkers. Trying again...

John M

climber

Jan 10, 2013 - 03:32pm PT

It looks like you have a number of photos saved to supertopos server. If you look in your photo section you can see what loaded.

Click you name.. and follow that.

cultureshock

Trad climber

Mountain View

Jan 10, 2013 - 03:40pm PT

Seems you got it figured out. Sweet photos!

Cheers,

Luke

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Jan 10, 2013 - 03:45pm PT

Ice Climbers! It's PBD, just ask Dr. Tami!

Well, the pix won't melt...

Chappy, been there done that with the pix.

It took me a loooong time to figure the process out for myself. Good luck, bro.

edit: "Son of a crying widow!"

This thread IS GREAT WITH PICTURES! Everyone can follow along now.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Jan 10, 2013 - 03:50pm PT

Even with all of the incredible history the Valley has, this might still get my vote as the most amazing, out-there adventure ever. I mean, f*#k. Talk about going for it.

chappy

Social climber

ventura

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 03:52pm PT

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Jan 10, 2013 - 03:52pm PT

Yeah, like, where's the Gore-Tex? And the flask! zBrown, they're ice climbng w/o a flask!

mojede

Trad climber

Butte, America

Jan 10, 2013 - 03:55pm PT

Since chappy is in the room--any chance of having some pics and/or stories about your first ascent of "California Ice" in Montana?

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Jan 10, 2013 - 03:59pm PT

Now we're talking! That's the shizzola right there boys!

Mark, that day three pitch zoomed in pic is great.

So did you guys have to rig a special hauling system to bring your giant nut sacks up?!

Geesh, way to go big, in the way back machine.