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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 28, 2011 - 04:22pm PT
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The best way to get into alpine climbing is to do some climbing in the alpine.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 28, 2011 - 05:07pm PT
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Get a partner who won't bail, buy the plane ticket and bring a roll of duct tape.
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steve shea
climber
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Oct 28, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
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Why is it that so many think you suffer on an alpine climb?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 28, 2011 - 06:49pm PT
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Steve, the most important thing for an alpinist is a short memory. You never think you are going to suffer and you nearly always do suffer.
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steve shea
climber
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Oct 28, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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Jim, I read you 5x5. My synapses fail to gap more after each alpine route. Not that I get on the hill that much anymore. It is also true about the duct tape. I would add exra strength garbage bags and you are good to go.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Oct 28, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
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I sick of the bolting talk on some other threads... Especially the one one about the bolted crack on the chief...
So...
Steve Shea, tell us about Shea's Chute on the Grand
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Oct 28, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
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Sorry I meant to post that in the talking about alpine climbing thread
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steve shea
climber
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Oct 28, 2011 - 07:53pm PT
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Johnkelley how do you know about that route? It was 1980, June. We had tried it a couple of times that May, no go. I lost my partner, Mike Stern, and went up to get the gear/food stash in early June after a cold front. Found it in good shape and ended up doing it by myself, rope solo. The only person I ever talked to who did it was Alex Lowe. He said it was "sporting". I wrote a report for the Jenny Lake Ranger Station and named it the Grand North Couloir. That report has since been lost but Renny Jackson, chronicler of the Grand, got the info long ago. It's a good route, similar to the Run Don't Walk but longer with sustained difficulties, very weather dependant. Jeff Lowe and Charlie Fowler told me about it. They did the Route Canal about the same time I think, maybe 79'
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Oct 28, 2011 - 09:18pm PT
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I did it in 98(?)also solo. Did the Route Canal the same season with a guy from Protland and never did get up the Run Don't Walk although I attempted it several times. I climbed in the Tetons alot in the mid 90's until the early 2000's before moving to AK. It's how I got into alpine climbing
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Oct 28, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
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the most important thing for an alpinist is a short memory. You never think you are going to suffer and you nearly always do suffer. Thanks Jim, I knew I forgot something....
Looking forward to seeing you at the AAC, dinner in So Cal.in Dec.
Thanks for doing it for us!
TY
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