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wetworx
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 26, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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I was hoping some of you could recommend ways to get started in alpine climbing.
Should I look to get certified? or do the intro clinics suffice?
what are mountains/routes are good to start on?
would a typical progression involve taking a lot of clinics and going on a lot of climbs with others to eventually striking it out on my own/another?
i know this is a broad and involved question, but suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 26, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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Don't forget the Cell Phone and Red Bull.
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
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^^^^yup and join a team on everest ...one that has a sled...
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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Where you live, or have access to within reasonable travel distance can be a determining factor on how you might get started. If you you live in North America and can get to the Washington Cascades, or Canadian Rockies, the possibilities are endless. A guided climb up Mt.Rainier, for example, will provide a lot of training in itself and allow you to assess your level of physical conditioning. After a guided trip up Rainier, a climb of a peak like Mt. Baker with an experienced partner could be a logical next step.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
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Hard-earned experience is the ticket, taken in little steps. That, plus decent physical and mental fitness, willingness to learn, suffer and to take calculated risks, and a willingness to take responsibility for yourself and those you're with.
The commercial climbing route - courses, guides, etc - is something of a dead end, in that ultimately you're not responsible for yourself. It can be a useful learning tool, but no more.
There's little that's easy about alpine climbing, and nothing that's risk-free.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
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Just, playin, but I would do a lot of traditional rock climbing, ice climbing and hiking with a heavy pack and you should be good to go. Pick your objectives wisely. Usually the cell phone doesn't work until you are on top so you can use that to figure out how to get down.
Sorry Tami, but I thought that beat my other smartass remark of contacting Plaidman.
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
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Learn to accept defeat and enjoy it...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Anders (Mighty Hiker) has it right, although I think professional instruction can speed things up, particularly for things like learning self-arrest, avalanche risk assessment and basic snow and ice technique.
Big alpine climbs require a lot of good judgment, which, in turn, requires experience. And we all know where experience comes from -- poor judgment!
To me, it's the most beautiful and satisfying type of climbing, and I hope you thoroughly enjoy it.
John
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
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I didn't say not to take courses, or hire someone. You may learn all sorts of things - climbers are supposed to be open to learning. I'm simply suggesting that eventually it may limit your experience. You can attend any number of courses, have pretty certificates galore, and get hauled up mountains - and you're not really an alpinist. If you do it yourself, perhaps you are. A good part of alpinism is about being responsible for yourself.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
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I think you should be careful. I mean, I've not gotten to the point of proper alpine climbing, but everyone I climb with who goes there just can't really stop talking about it.
I suspect that it's addicting out there in the high alpine, so just be aware. You might be getting yourself addicted to something that could change your life!
Nothing wrong with sneaking up on something like that, I would think.
In fact, the way the my climber friends talk about it...dreamy with a bit of lingering afterglow...Makes a body want to do what it takes to finally reach the alpine!
Good luck.
Cheers
LS
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steve shea
climber
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:43pm PT
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It's a logical progression start with bouldering, then rock climbing. Free and hard aid. Then ice climbing, then mixed. Go back to bouldering with crampons and tools for this phase and I mean bouldering on rock with ice gear. All the while doing wind sprints up hill and other types of interval training as well as endurance training like speedhiking with a 40 lb pack. Then go back to bouldering with ice gear and the pack. Mix in with all this any sort of self abuse tour you can think of. For example ski all day with out gloves on or water or food and ski non stops. When this starts to feel second nature, no big deal, take your whole show to the mountains. Pick a nice moderate waterfall plastered to the side of some peak with rock involved preferably on a north face in this hemisphere like the Run Don't Walk Couloir on Mt. Owen and your off and running. Leave all gadgets and gizmos at home so that you feel comfortable with your own preparation to get youself out of trouble. Aneroid barometers and compasses are OK. Have fun.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
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Get a big heavy pack, bundle up, and hike through the sierras in the dead of winter. Then think, gee, I really wish it was colder, the air was thinner, it was steeper and I had a better chance of being killed by an avalanche.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
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Also alpine climbing is a pretty broad catgory. Are you looking to do Rock, Ice, Snow or some combination of the three. Lots of stuff in the Tetons and Wind Rivers in WY. Many relatively easy rock routes at a relatively high elevation for us stuck in the lower 48. Also Rocky Mountain National Park would be another place to look and there is a lot of good info on all of these areas. NOLS and Outward Bound I believe do a lot of instruction in these areas. RMNP also has quite a bit of guide climbing and courses.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
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alpine climbing can be a warm sunny lightweight pursuit- especially in california. Go climb cathedral, conness etc. and move it on up
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 26, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
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Tell us about yourself and where you are from so we could give you an appropriate advice. There are different kinds of alpine climbing. Are you interested in General Mountaineering (Shasta->Rainier->Denali->Everest->Retirement), Ice climbing, Alpinism (big Alaskan walls in a push), some classic climbs in the alpine environment like in Sierra Supertopo? What is your experience so far? Have you been camping? Done some peaks? Done some multi pitch climbs 10miles from trailheads?
When I was starting snowshoeing some peaks in Tahoe helped to get used to being in the wilderness, than do more on Shasta/eastern Sierra, progress from easier routes to more demanding and to those I was not sure about. From scrambling to multi pitch climbs.
If I could give you one original advice is- do not read into sh#t online, do not get intimidated by peaks just because some fk heads say they are scary. If it is so scary than one should do easier objectives or find a different hobby. When you are comfortable that’s when it is fun. But to get to a good comfort zone you have to get out a lot, and push your comfort level a bit without doing anything careless and idiotic.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oct 26, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
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We used to go to the local crag in a snowstorm and do all the 5.5 and 5.6 routes in big boots, and mittens. But that still doesn't prepare you for the decision making, at high altitude, on chossy rock, when you don't have most of what you need and have to improvise. That is best learned on the mountain, with someone of experience.
I'm just referring to fairly non committing stuff. There are guys on this site that could cruise the hardest alpine stuff I've done in a thong and flip flops.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Oct 26, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
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I think Anders had it right upthread. It's like other forms of climbing, you go along at a reasonable pace, climbing with folks who are already acclimated to the risks of the particular discipline.
More subjective hazards in the mountains than the crags requires more caution or more risk-assumption.
Oh, and...yes, Yer Gonna Die!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Oct 26, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
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You don't Get Into Alpine Climbing - it gets into you.
Tami Gets it and knows what of she speaks.
And that can only happen by spending time in the mountains.
I'm just referring to fairly non committing stuff. There are guys on this site that could cruise the hardest alpine stuff I've done in a thong and flip flops. Firstoff GunniPlates I don't believe your self deprecating statement, you were a a damn fine climber. Sure it might have been last century but honestly dude FLIP FLOPS? Surely a thong but flips I think not.
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steve shea
climber
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Oct 26, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
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Hey Phil I heard someone once did the Third Flatiron in winter with boxing gloves and rollerskates, is that true?
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