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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Oct 21, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
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look at those clams.
i mean cams.
who here has been to checklosolvokia?
are they phony over there?
roscoe mitchell?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Oct 22, 2011 - 12:21am PT
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That looks like the rack that guy had who was going
up to climb Ruper...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 22, 2011 - 12:48am PT
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About how I pictured it from your description...
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Oct 22, 2011 - 12:56am PT
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Jay,That pic with that "sick" amount of wide fetish gear is nauseating, and I like the occasional OW, it keeps you honest. How does 10.96 compare to TZ and others mentioned here. I've looked at and yearned over both routes for decades but my partners were always a little smarter and declined the "interesting" experience.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Oct 22, 2011 - 01:16am PT
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You have to love the picture of Eric and the gibson les paul with the "Bixby", being a renown strat fan. It's kinda like Jimmy Pages recording with a Tele for so many of his early hits and his name is almost Synonymous with the Les Paul.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 22, 2011 - 01:23am PT
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Apparently the diamond cartel wasn't quite right. Diamonds aren't always a girl's best friend, it seems.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Oct 22, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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hmm they do seem to be all black diamond...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Wyde wednesday style bump
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dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:16am PT
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I never had a chance to give TZ a go. Still on the to do list.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:31am PT
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skating on stilts
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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When I started this tread almost year ago, I was thinking this should stimulate me to finally climb TZ and push away my fear. Thanks everyone who chime on this tread.
This weekend I felt it is the time to do it.
We were driving with wife from Mariposa on Suturday late afternoon to Cookie and I was so tense and shaky - same feeling as 30 years ago when you going for college exams and not fully prepared.
To make thing worse - on approach 5.9 pitch1 of TZ I went little bit off route , pull on arete- and big chunk of rock peal off with me. - I fell about 12 feet and piece of rock with size of the half gallon bottle missed my wife few inches. When we get to the base of crux pitch- after close call with fallen rock- my wife was not sure she want to go for crux pitch, but I was grateful that she was climb first pitch and wiling to belay me on the crux pitch.
The bottom of p2 is the only place you can clearly see the route.
It did not look so grim as I imagined . I calm down and huge rack on my right side also help to relax.
I can afford big rack - since last year I get rid of 15 pounds of fat which is equal weight [or even more] of double rack of big Cams #4, #5 and #6. So leading now it would be like top roping year ago with some rope tension.
I send crux pitch in 20 minutes . I reached top of the climb which is flat dirt - lean down and shouted to wife "this thing is easier than Steppin'Out - you should go !"
Later on I would say - they about equal in difficulties and fairly rated 10d
I did not find places on TZ where I can stay forever and fully rest as I did on Steppin'Out.
But Steppin'Out individual moves at crux felt harder.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 30, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
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Alexey, it always makes me happy to read your reports. OK, now you can shave your head, get a "badass" tattoo on your scalp, and regrow hair if required for general employment. Good job!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 30, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
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I don't think his employer will mind unless he does a windows tattoo, or something.
Mark, just saw your questions. 1096 is totally dissimilar from either of these climbs, Bombay Squeeze chimney to lieback.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jul 30, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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great thread.
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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Jul 31, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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i love ow,on tz i found a very good rest i sent it in two laps
i also climbed 1096 and generetor (onsight)and found them easier than tz,next time step. out and cream ...is it hard to find cream?
my dream would be monster ow
ciao a tutti
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 04:07am PT
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Typo in Jay's description of 10.96 Squeeze chimney to a lieback. But you all knew that.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jul 31, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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Great pics and thread. I climbed SO which I found reasonable but never did TZ. Another one that just didn't get done.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 20, 2014 - 02:09am PT
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Hey Studly, I want to hear more about this - BUMP!!
Had a buddy place a Valley Giant and climb above it, at which point he slipped back down in the wide crack and got trapped straddling the Cam. The ensuing thrash was not pretty.
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