Who are the grandfathers of modern Eastside climbing?

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RyanD

climber

Squamish

Mar 9, 2014 - 04:11am PT

Great thread. So many silent menace crushers hiding around the eastside.

Wasn't the Bachar route "pickpocket" the first "sport" route at ORG??

BASE104

Social climber

An Oil Field

Mar 9, 2014 - 12:02pm PT

Cool group of names, however you want to parse it.

Dean Hobbs. The only time I met him was in Chamonix. He went there with Walt Shipley and we hooked up with them. Dean went home earlier than the rest, probably because Walt was in heaven drinking loads of wine and pestering the schoolgirls in front of the Chamonix post office.

I never heard Dean's name mentioned until now.

Al Bartlett. He used to be a neighbor of mine out in forty acres, and would grab me now and then as a partner to go put up new routes. I think that he had some kind of policy about never repeating a route..just doing them once..therefore doing more routes in your lifetime.

The only bad thing about that was that he had already done all of the good routes around Bishop, and we would go climb the most miserable little grovels imaginable. All first ascents, and probably still unrepeated. They were that bad.

He had lots of energy. I mean no disrespect. Does he post here? Who is that Al Dude character who posts here now and then?

Has anyone here done the Smokestack up on Wheeler Crest? There used to be a good resident mountain lion population around there, or so I was told.

JerryA

Mountain climber

Sacramento,CA

Mar 9, 2014 - 03:18pm PT

The Palisades School of Mountaineering (PSOM) leaders : Bob Swift,Larry Williams ,Smoke Blanchard ,Don Jensen ,& John Fischer & their guides who inspired our climbs.