Who are the grandfathers of modern Eastside climbing?

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Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Topic Author's Original Post - May 10, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
Who would be on your list of the most influential California Eastside climbers from the last 40 years? Give one or two each from sport climbing, bouldering, trad/ big wall, route developers, guides, .....?
I have a project in mind and would love to boil it down to one or two from each discipline of climbing. I am not looking for the biggest names necessarily as much as those who made an impact on our sport on this side of the mountains under the radar.

Feel free to nominate yourselves... :)


EDIT: Please list what you see as their biggest achievement/contribution.
Thanks for the responses!
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
May 10, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
Norman Clyde would be on that list.

edit: Oh, I see you edited it to say "from the last 40 years" and
"I am not looking for the biggest names necessarily as much as those who made an impact on our sport on this side of the mountains under the radar."

Carry on.
apogee

climber
May 10, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
That Lembert guy.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
May 10, 2011 - 10:53pm PT
Don Bowie
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
May 10, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
Big Al Bartlett...
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
May 10, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
In the modern era, Croft would rate at least an honorable mention on that list.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
Maybe Forefathers is a better description...? Don't forget to list what you think is their big contributions.
mctwisted

Social climber
superslacker city
May 10, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
john bacher developed some amazing bouldering areas
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
May 10, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
Skipt...would that be fobes 40? Rj
flakyfoont

Trad climber
carsoncity nv
May 10, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
Tom Ross (orangatom) for his great roloflex black and whites , and his great humor too. hes done many obscure sierra peaks.
mctwisted

Social climber
superslacker city
May 10, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
hey werner wasnt dale bard parked in the buttermilks for quite a duration of time???
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 11, 2011 - 12:14am PT
He might not be a grandfather, but he's definitely a father of stuff that's getting down on the Eastside.

Mike Strassman. That guy had goals, visions and got them done. And we all have routes to benefit from it.

RIP Mike.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland -> SLT
May 11, 2011 - 12:32am PT
Smoke Blanchard? (edited to add: This was added at the same time as the previous post, I'm not questioning, rather suggesting as I have read his name many times but am far from an east side expert)
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
May 11, 2011 - 12:52am PT
I'd go with Dave Nettle as my choice for 'ultra modern' grandfather of all things climbing in the Sierra.
+1 for all the others listed too :)
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 01:25am PT
Keep em coming! And I'm glad someone mentioned Bob Harrington. He is a climbing partner of mine and one who got me thinking about this topic after I read he F.A.d Positive Vibrations on the Hulk, not to mention many other classic lines over here.
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
May 11, 2011 - 01:32am PT
Clyde.....what is your defination of modern?
Grandfather and modern dont play well together. you need to change your wording.



GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
May 11, 2011 - 01:36am PT
Haven't heard these people mentioned...

Rowell, Muir, Ruth and John Meddenhal (or however you spell that one), Eichorn, Brutus, Croft, Hensel (does the Whitney Portal count?), Powell.... lots!
henny

Social climber
The Past
May 11, 2011 - 01:40am PT
Nice, Harrington is being called a grandfather climber now.

I know, I know, it's all context. Nonetheless, grandpa is probably going to get some ribbing about that - ha - if he has his hearing aid turned on.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 01:40am PT
What I meant by grandfather was those who ushered in the modern era of climbing here. I,m talking about late 70s and onward. Basically modern gear protected crack climbing and sport climbing/bouldering. Sorry if the wording is incorrect.



The Modern Fathers perhaps......
Sorry Bob, not calling you old....!
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
May 11, 2011 - 01:57am PT
Dale Bard-bouldering
Marty Lewis-sport climbing
Galen Rowell-Alpine
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