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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 21, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
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On our ascent of the West Face of Sentinel back in 1970, I tried to take a dump into a baggie (poop tubes were years away from being invented) and...I missed. Turns out not only do I not know my ass from my elbow, I also don't know the location of...well, you get the point.
Stannard was pretty pissed at me for that. So, the next day, leading the chimney after the A5 traverse, I decided to make up for my previous failing by dropping a sling containing all of our bongs.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 21, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
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I came to the same conclusion as the OP while up there without a rope. I was well past the ex tree, where it goes out on the face. I down climbed from there and walked around. After that, I walked around the first pitch every time.
Walking around the first pitch never took away fun from the route.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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May 23, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
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I never climbed the Stovelegs.
There....I said it.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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May 23, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
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After soloing the Prow, soon after Robbins did the 1st ascent, I threw my haul bag off the East Face. During my 3 day epic, I managed to take close to a 100 foot fall, zippering an entire A4 pitch. Also got hit by 2 violent storms. I was in no mood to carry that huge haul bag, with all that iron down that gully.
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MisterE
Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
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May 23, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
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Lena's Lieback scares me every time I lead it. I have never fallen on it, but never felt secure.
Blue Suede Shoes baffles me completely.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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May 23, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
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Funny stuff - Jolly Rodger and rgold hit my funny bone.
Confession: I shadily try to sit near the hard looking climbers in the Deli and at the Lodge to overhear epic tales.
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Robb
Social climber
The other "Magic City on the Plains"
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May 23, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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Myself and a certain ( to remain unnamed ) fellow supertopian nailed a free climb in the dead of winter on the apron. We then, uh, er, uh, I mean,.......we placed a bolt next to it to rap as we were becoming hypothermic....
Oh, the burden lifted......
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OR
Trad climber
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May 23, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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After 6 was stop # 1 on the MPB free solo tour. Prolly climbed that route 2x's with a rope then 50 times free solo then last couple of time with friends on a rope. Funny cuz I remember the last couple a times on a rope thinking " I would be gripped if If I was soloing ths right now! ". BITD of course!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 24, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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rgold: On our ascent of the West Face of Sentinel back in 1970, I tried to take a dump into a baggie (poop tubes were years away from being invented) and...I missed.
This incident didn't involve any ropes, now did it?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 24, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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Lena's and the first pitch of After 6 are both way insecure for their moderate grades. Did them both a zillion years ago. Haven't repeated either mistake since.
EDIT: of course After 6 is way worse because it's rated 5.6
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Mar 25, 2018 - 09:00pm PT
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Bump for classic confessions!
After bailing from the top of the second pitch, I spent the night in the gully beneath Braille Book.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 25, 2018 - 10:12pm PT
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Hey Rhodo, I have bailed off P1 of Braille Book (sub-freezing temps couldn't tell if I was holding a crimp or not), and slept at the base, but not on the same trip!
Once upon a time I did spend 2 nights in a row on East Buttress of El Cap.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 26, 2018 - 08:30am PT
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NPS should get a pressure washer and go deal with the greasy messes on these first pitches, especially considering the price of admission to the Park.
She actually grounded out?! That's a dismal tale if ever I heard one.
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
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Mar 26, 2018 - 09:06am PT
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My first time in Squamish I got lost approaching Diedre. It is right off the road. You can see it from the road and from the approach trail. It was a clear sunny day. I have no excuse for that.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Mar 26, 2018 - 09:27am PT
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Once while attempting to rig a rappel to bail off Mt Starr King, I dropped the rope!
I let out a terrified stream of babble before figuring a solution..
Humiliating.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 26, 2018 - 09:33am PT
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^^^ There's more story there?! Rapped down a line of protection bolts with shoe laces and T-shirt cut into strips?
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 26, 2018 - 11:37am PT
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A bit of history:
On October 4, 1964, Yvon Chouinard and Ruth Schneider returned to Camp 4 to announce a new "5.6" route near Manure Pile Buttress, "After Six". Aaron Schneider, Russ McLean and I had just done Swan Slab. We were duly impressed with Ruth's "first ascent".
On February 5, 1967, Chouinard, Hennek, and I did the still-rated "5.6" climb in the rain, unroped, in mountain boots (Chouinard: "Good training for the mountains"). I thought I might die.
On June 29, 1967, Sandy Santibenez and I did After Six, now-rated "5.7".
The next day I took my 10-year-old daughter Valerie up the route. She cried a little after the first pitch. Still had the tree. Wasn't outrageously slick.
On April 10, 1968, Herbert, Hennek, and I did the newly rated "5.8" After Six. Was getting a little slippery.
Sometime in 1972, Hennek and I did the now very slick route (I think sans tree?). Still rated "5.8"
Haven't been back.
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Mar 26, 2018 - 12:24pm PT
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Back in the late 90s - early 2000s, I climbed After 6 once. My partner lead the whole thing. I used the tree to make upward progress. When I got to the very slippery part above the tree, I pulled on pro that my leader had placed. I made it to the top of the climb without using any tension!
Once, on a high school trip, our group camped in LYV before our hike/climb of Half Dome the next day. During the night the group leader's wife started blowing her tri-tone whistle, with her husband yelling, Dave, there's a bear in the tree after our food bags! I had stockpiled a bunch of rocks outside my tent before going to sleep, so I got up and started throwing them at the bear! I hit him in the nose, and he slowly climbed back down and lumbered off into the night forest. For all I know, it might have been number 426!
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Mar 26, 2018 - 12:52pm PT
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After 6, P1
Slick, awkward, and scary for me. Never led it. Would much rather be on After 7.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Mar 26, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
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Confession...I had just finished an overhanging pitch at the Endless Wall at "the New". I was threading the anchor and dropped the rope. I had to hang there from the 2 draws while my partner hoofed it to the "nearest" ladder to the rim, then bushwhacked for quite sometime to find my location and lower the end to me (not easy). The view was nice :-). Never did that again!!!
S...
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