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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 27, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
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The Flake
The Eye
Overhang Bypass
Mental Physics
Walk on the Wild Side
Double Cross
White Lightning
Dappled Mare
200 Motels/Taken For Granite
Cakewalk
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 27, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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TT,
You have some great pics. Could you size them down though? They are to big to view.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
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Hey Todd,
I know I'm out of the loop cause I tend to avoid the crowd and go out on my own. I'm not connected like my old partner F10. So you provided a great list, yet when I try to locate some of the routes I'm at a loss? I'm definitely interested in making sure that I
Give the Sail Away, Walk on the Wild Side, Mental Physics and Double Cross a break;...try something new;...
and I readily admit that I am
unfamiliar with these climbs;
The Praying Monkey 5.4
Bird Eating Spider 5.8
Love Bubbles 5.7
Waterbabies 5.8
Mr. Simpkinton 5.8
Dig For Fire 5.8
I would love to spread the impact, yet what do you suggest for ways that I can .....well;...get busy....
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Jan 27, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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double criss, repeat 10 times.
real freakin' easy!
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Jan 27, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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If your a noob ? and your leading, I think the Dolphin may get your attention ( do not fall ) I'd hate to think what would happen if you did fall near the top..../some blood makes you strong, so does fear
.....don't think I wanna do that one again ?
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kc
Trad climber
sj, ca
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Jan 27, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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Just get the Trad Guide to Joshua Tree--it has 60 climbs in it from 5.5 - 5.9, and they all pro well. Great color pictures so you can find the rock, the route, etc. And while a lot of the climbs are popular, many are not and are in less traveled areas. Check it out on Amazon.
Dolphin--you need a 6 for the top or be really comfortable with your OW skills. You can't really 'fall' on the route, though--not in the traditional sense anyway. Not scary.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 27, 2011 - 10:53pm PT
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There are new guidebooks coming out "soon"....and all sorts of new info will be in them;.......until then;...mountain project has alot.......yeah;....after you have done the "classics"......it's time to move on to new stuff, aint' it.......and once I hear about something;....I'm curious until I satisfy that curiousity.......Joshua Tree is such a great place to explore;....we are fortunate in this respect......the 60 trad climbs guide is a good one;...but if you frequent Joshua Tree.....you should probably already have those ticked.......I had done them all when the book came out;.....If you haven't ticked those;....well........buy the book and get busy.......and get on Mountain project, check out the multi-star new stuff....and ....you know what to do......buy them new guides as soon as they hit the shops....and start banging them out.......don't come here to check them out;...come here to check them off.............................................
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Jan 27, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
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Not every noob has a # 6 cam for The dolphin ? When I did it ! I don't think I owned 3 cam's total if that !.... o k .... o k it was 27 plus plus years ago for me
The bird of fire....... "rocks" with a nice topout I think it may be in some cases a better choice than the Dolphin
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
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kc:
Dolphin-- ... You can't really 'fall' on the route, though--not in the traditional sense anyway. Not scary.
is one of my favorite ST quotes in quite a while. It's really something I think people have to realize about climbing easier wide cracks. I can't remember about Dolphin, could you get stuck in it?
dar
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Jan 27, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
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Dolphin keeps you glued....it may not be easy to fall.....just don't
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kc
Trad climber
sj, ca
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Jan 27, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
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You could chockstone into the top of Dolphin as it progresses up through #4 to #6 Camalot if you're not careful. If you can move more towards the back of the crack as soon as you can, it widens up into more of a chimney--much more comfortable. Then again, I'm 5'7. heehee
I know, my statement about not being able to fall on it sounds kind of funny, but if you fall, you're definitely not taking a whipper or anything. You just might sit in the crack for a while until your friends can figure out how to get you out!
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Jan 27, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
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Kc your comments nails it well !
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jan 28, 2011 - 12:07am PT
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The Larry: I downsized my photos
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 28, 2011 - 12:53am PT
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Thanks TT. My bad. They're coming up smaller now. Great shots!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 28, 2011 - 01:32am PT
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Goodness, I haven't been to Jtree for a while, and I'm forgetting the names and grades.
Roadside Attraction got a downgrade, IIRC. Used to be called 5.9? One of my favorites!
Dolphin
The Bong
Mike's Books
The 5.6? arete on Headstone rock is one of the coolest climbs by location in the park, regardless of grade!
Walk on the Wildside must be one for length alone although I haven't done it my ownself. Someday I'll go out there and learn what I already know...slabs actually aren't so much fun.
Waterchute? 5.8 groovey thing to slab on Intersection?
Sail Away (and its 5.9? neighbor)
Dogleg
The 5.7's at the DQ wall.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 28, 2011 - 05:54am PT
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Really sweet recommendations by all!! Such fun stuff for everyone out there...200 Motels was a super fave Zappa movie that my brother Shawn and I watched religiously together...We were musicians and Zappa was the real shit! Watch it here... http://www.mrbrownee70.com/?id=DRCXAUQH&w=604&h=407%20megaupload
Shawn and I used to work those riffs until the dawn...I miss my bro...
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2011 - 11:11am PT
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thanks Todd!
MP gave me the beta on those. haven't been out on the g.t. road in a while so i think i'll be checking out monkey dome for sure as there's a couple other good sounding routes there, too. (of course there's more than one good route in the vicinity of each of your recommendations! Isn't JT amazing?!)
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