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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 26, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
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What are your choices for the best ten climbs <=5.8 in JTNP?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jan 26, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
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The Eye 5.1
Scaramouche 5.2
Route 66 5.4
The Chief 5.5
Lickety Split 5.7
Black Tide 5.7
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Jan 26, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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Sailaway
Southwest corner headstone
Cryptic headstone
Hands off
Dogleg
Double dogleg
Double cross
Dappled mare
Walk on the wild side
Mental physics
Just some that I have done I need to do more to see what's better. :)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 26, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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B1
B2
The Eye
Granny Goose
White Lightning
Overhang Bypass
Mikes Books
Bat Crack (w/shoulder stand start)
Mental Physics
The Bong
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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Thanks! I missed that MP post! I've been looking for a couple of days...guess my query skills need work.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jan 26, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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double cross
dog leg
toe jam
boussionier
the flake
mike's books
mental physics
white lightening
dung fu
the swift
dappled mare
skinny dip
breakfast of champions
oops i went over
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jan 26, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
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oh and let me squeeze in sail away too.
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Jan 26, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
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Yeah, The Eye 5.1.
Toe Jam 5.7
Duchess 5.6
NOT Stichter Quits. At 5.7 that thing has a weird first bolt crux, and then is really runout.
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Jan 26, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
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All those climbs you did in the early 70's but don't remember....
Did that help ??
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan 26, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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Of course not! I've never done Stichter Quits, but I've led Black Tide several times! ;) Even the devout coward (me) leading, I never thought it was particularly run out.
I definitely liked Toe Jam, and Walk on the Wild Side.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jan 26, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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Paulina is right about Duchess. But wrong about Black Tide, it is runout, but there is a bolt at each crux. It's a great climb.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 26, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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Black Tide is a bit runout after the last clip, but if you do it right (by trending right after the clip), it's pretty secure climbing.
Double Dip is pretty fun. Ton's of stuff on Atlantis Wall too.
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jan 26, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
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The bong looks cool, has a wild approach, and is about 5.4.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 26, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
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Oh yeah, the Bong is awesome!!! I got to second it when I did it, thus 'cleaning the Bong'. Fun route. Maybe not worth the approach but there is another formation out that way. I forget the name. Patagonia Pile?
This one is easy for 5.9ish on Nuclear Reactor Rock. Just watch!
http://www.youtube.com/user/SuperBluering?feature=mhum
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 26, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
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I would not recommend Lickety Splits to a budding 5.8 leader. Falling is not an option above the crack.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jan 26, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
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The MP List is OK, Now -- I just made a few modifications to it as a couple very unworthy routes were oddly on the list.
If you want a bit of an adventure, 200 Motels & Taken For Granite provide a nice day out and are somewhat away from the hordes.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jan 26, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
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Boussineer (sp)
Hands off
Sail Away
Nurn's Romp
White Lightning
Dappled Mare
SW Corner Headstone
Bucket Brigade
Double Dip
Lazy Daze
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 26, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
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200 motels and taken for granite are definitely worth the price of admission, but would save them for a warmer day. north facing and can be chilly up there.
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Byran
climber
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Jan 26, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
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1. Taken For Granite
2. Breakfast of Champions
3. Mental Physics
4. Hex Marks the Poot
5. Walk on the Wild Side
6. Double Cross
7. Likety Splits
8. Stitcher Quits
9. White Lightning
10. The Dolphin (or maybe Sail Away)
Would have been a lot easier to come up with a solid top 10 if I were to include 5.9's. Some of those near the end of my list I don't even like very much.
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