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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2010 - 12:38am PT
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I just ran down to The Mazama library to pick up Savage Arena by Joe Tasker.
Reads like butter. MMMMMMM. So good! That is part of the reason I started the list so I would have something to read. Keeps the fire burning.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2010 - 01:12am PT
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Got the list up to 123 books. Thanks Jello. We should try to rank them now. If anyone wants to play?
The White Spider - Heinrich Harrer
The Stone Masters - California Rock Climbers in the 70's - Long and Fidelman
The Mountains of My Life - Walter Bonatti
Savage Arena - Joe Tasker
The Magnificent Mountain Women - Janet Robertson
Mountain of My Fear - David Roberts
Escape Routes - David Roberts
Chomolungma Sings The Blues - Ed Douglas
Pushing The Limits - Chic Scott
The Hard Years - Joe Brown
One Man's Mountain - Tom Patey
Minus 148 Degrees: The First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley - Art Davidson
Touching the Void - Joe Simpson
Conquistadors of the Useless - Lionel Terray
Into Thin Air - Jon Krakauer
Caverns Measureless to Man - Sheck Exley
Deep Play - Paul Pritchard
The Totem Pole - Paul Pritchard
On the Ridge Between Life and Death: A Climbing Life Reexamined - David Roberts
Ways to the Sky - Andy Selters
Kiss or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber - Mark Twight
Starlight and Storm - Gaston Rebuffat
Annapurna - Maurice Herzog
Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, and Hang Dogs - John Long
Everest Kangshung Face - Stephen Venables
Eiger Obsession - John Harlin III
K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain - Ed Viesturs
Killing Dragons - Fergus Fleming
Escape from Khatmandu - Kim Stanley Robinson
Gorilla Monsoon - John Long
Downward Bound - Warren Harding
K2 The Savage Mountain - Houston & Bates
50 Years of Alpinism - Ricardo Cassin
The Stones Of Silence - George Schaller
The Games Climbers Play - Ken Wilson (Editor)
Into The Unknown - Susan Schwartz
A Fine Kind Of Madness Guy and Laura Waterman
Solo Faces - James Salter
Gervasuttis Climbs - Giusti Gervasutti
Enduring Patagonia - Gregory Crouch
Close Calls - by John Long
Eiger Dreams - Jon Krakauer
Climbing Adventures - A Climbers Passion - Jim Bridwell
The Black Cliff - Soper, Crew, and Wilson
In High Places - Dougal Haston
Everest The Hard Way - Chris Bonington
Everest: The West Ridge - Tom Hornbein
The Ascent of Rum Doodle - W.E. Bowman
No Shortcuts to the Top - Ed Viesturs
On Belay: The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzodt - Raye C. Ringholz
Climbing Free - Lynn Hill
The Burgess Book of Lies - Adrian and Alan Burgess
The Climb Up To Hell - Jack Olsen
No Way Down - Live and Death on K2 - Graham Bowley
Ascent of the Matterhorn - Edward Whymper.
Men and the Matterhorn - Gaston Rebuffat.
Tiger of the Snows Tenzing Norgay - Liesl Clark
Stories of a young climber : an autobiography - Pat Ament
We Aspired: The Last Innocent Americans - Pete Sinclair
Deborah - David Roberts
Lighting Out - Daniel Duane
Looking for Mo - Daniel Duane
Beyond the Mountain - Steve House
Ways to the Sky: A Historical Guide to North American Mountaineering - Andy Selters
Feeding the Rat - Al Alvarez
No Picnic on Mount Kenya - Felice Benuzzi
Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age - Pat Ament
John Gill: Master of Rock - Pat Ament
Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber - Steve Roper
The Eiger Sanction - Trevanian
THE VILLAIN: A Portrait of Don Whillans - James Perrin
The Vertical World of Yosemite - Galen Rowell
Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America - Pat Ament
The Naked Mountain - Reinhold Messner/Tim Carruthers
The Seventh Grade - Reinhold Messner
Mountaineering In Scotland - WH Murray
Snow in the Kingdom - Ed Webster
No Tigers In The Hindu Kush - Philip Trantor
The Loneliest Mountain - Lincoln Hall
The High Lonesome- John Long
Fall of the Phantom Lord- Andrew Todhunter
The Six Mountain Travel Books- Eric Shipton
Endurance - Alfred Lansing
A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush - Eric Newby
Against the Wall - Simon Yates
The Flame of Adventure - Simon Yates
An Eye at the Top of the World - Pete Takeda
Breaking Point: Challenge on Alaska's Mt. Hunter - Glenn Randall
Eiger Direct - Peter Gillman/Dougal Haston
Everest: The Testing Place - John B. West
Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge - Chris Bonington /Charles Clarke
High Conquest - James Ramsey Ullman
In High Places - Dougal Haston
Kingdon of Adventure: Everest - James Ramsey Ullman
Land of the Snow Lion - Elaine Brook
Last Days - John Roskelley
On Mountains and Mountaineers - Mike Vause
Orogenic Zones - Terry Gifford/Rosie Smith
Over the Edge - Greg Child
Red Peak - Malcom Slesse
Sacred Summits - Peter Boardman
Seven Summits - Bass/Wells/Ridgeway
Solo Nanga Parbat - Reinhold Messner
Stories Off The Wall - John Roskelley
Storm & Sorrow in the High Pamirs - Robert Craig
The Conquest of Everst - Sir John Hunt
The Great Days - Walter Bonatti
The Guiding Spirit - Kauffman/Putman
The Last Place on Earth - Roland Huntford
The Shining Mountain - Peter Boardman
Thin Air - Greg Child
To the Top of Denali - Bill Sherwonit
A Sunny Day in the Himalaya - Peter Hilary
A Hard Day’s Summer - Alison Hargreaves
A Test of Will - Warren McDonald
Addicted to Danger - Jim Wickwire/Dorothy Bullitt
Alan Rouse: A Mountaineers Life - Geoff Birtles
At the Sharp End - Paul Nunn
Between Heaven and Earth - Gaston Rebuffat
Blind Corners - Geoff Tabin
Climb to the Lost World - Hamish MacInnes
Climbing Everest - Pat Ament
Creagh Dhu Climber - John Cunningham/Jeff Connor
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Dec 15, 2010 - 02:45am PT
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Hope I’m not past the deadline. These books weren’t mentioned…classics (and classics to be).
My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus Albert Mummery
Annapurna: A Woman’s Place Arlene Blum.
Summits and Secrets Kurt Diemberger
Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage Hermann Buhl
On the Heights Walter Bonatti
The Ascent of Nanda Devi H.W.Tilman.
This Game of Ghosts Joe Simpson
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 15, 2010 - 02:52am PT
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Jello reminds me that it's time to develop a catalogue of my admittedly somewhat smaller climbing library, and some other books.
"No Tigers in the Hindu Kush" was written by both Philip Tranter and his father, Nigel. Nigel finished the book after Philip died. It's about a four man Scottish expedition in the 1960s. Nigel Tranter wrote a lot of historical fiction (potboilers and even bodice rippers) about Scottish history.
From my mountaineering humour shelf - there is such a thing:
 One copy of everything that Tami has published, most of them personally defaced. Seven altogether, at least those that are quickly found.
The Ascent of Rum Doodle. (W.E. Bowman)
The Climbing Cartoons of Sheridan Anderson.
Nothing so Simple as Climbing (G.F. Dutton)
Baron von Mabel's Backpacking (Sheridan Anderson)
A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush (Eric Newby)
The Ridiculous Mountains (G.F. Dutton)
Flammes de Pierre (Anne Sauvy)
The Game of Mountain and Chance (Anne Sauvy)
Plus some Norwegian stuff, which I'll omit here. Norwegian climbing humour may be a bit inaccessible.
Kolsås: Klatreparadis og Naturperle translates to Kolsås: Climbing Paradise and Pearl of Nature. It's about a cliff on the outskirts of Oslo, with many fine climbs. I mentioned it to help make the point that not all climbing 'literature' is written in the USA or England, and in English. And a lot of climbing literature, isn't.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Dec 15, 2010 - 04:33am PT
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I was wondering when I was going to see someone add "A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush - Eric Newby" It was in Jellos Congressional Alpine Library. When y'll get around to rating the list that definitely gets a vote from me.
Great list. I will have to index my library too one of these days. What a daunting task that must have been Jeff.
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onyourleft
climber
Smog Angeles
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Dec 15, 2010 - 09:20am PT
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I don't believe this one's been mentioned:
The Breach - Rob Taylor
Gripping account of survival on Kilimanjaro after a fall results in a horrendous compound fracture of Taylor's leg on the Breach Wall of Kili.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
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I am starting a new thread for the vote off. Current list 129.
The White Spider - Heinrich Harrer
The Stone Masters - California Rock Climbers in the 70's - Long and Fidelman
The Mountains of My Life - Walter Bonatti
Savage Arena - Joe Tasker
The Magnificent Mountain Women - Janet Robertson
Mountain of My Fear - David Roberts
Escape Routes - David Roberts
Chomolungma Sings The Blues - Ed Douglas
Pushing The Limits - Chic Scott
The Hard Years - Joe Brown
One Man's Mountain - Tom Patey
Minus 148 Degrees: The First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley - Art Davidson
Touching the Void - Joe Simpson
Conquistadors of the Useless - Lionel Terray
Into Thin Air - Jon Krakauer
Caverns Measureless to Man - Sheck Exley
Deep Play - Paul Pritchard
The Totem Pole - Paul Pritchard
On the Ridge Between Life and Death: A Climbing Life Reexamined - David Roberts
Ways to the Sky - Andy Selters
Kiss or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber - Mark Twight
Starlight and Storm - Gaston Rebuffat
Annapurna - Maurice Herzog
Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, and Hang Dogs - John Long
Everest Kangshung Face - Stephen Venables
Eiger Obsession - John Harlin III
K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain - Ed Viesturs
Killing Dragons - Fergus Fleming
Escape from Khatmandu - Kim Stanley Robinson
Gorilla Monsoon - John Long
Downward Bound - Warren Harding
K2 The Savage Mountain - Houston & Bates
50 Years of Alpinism - Ricardo Cassin
The Stones Of Silence - George Schaller
The Games Climbers Play - Ken Wilson (Editor)
Into The Unknown - Susan Schwartz
A Fine Kind Of Madness Guy and Laura Waterman
Solo Faces - James Salter
Gervasuttis Climbs - Giusti Gervasutti
Enduring Patagonia - Gregory Crouch
Close Calls - by John Long
Eiger Dreams - Jon Krakauer
Climbing Adventures - A Climbers Passion - Jim Bridwell
The Black Cliff - Soper, Crew, and Wilson
In High Places - Dougal Haston
Everest The Hard Way - Chris Bonington
Everest: The West Ridge - Tom Hornbein
The Ascent of Rum Doodle - W.E. Bowman
No Shortcuts to the Top - Ed Viesturs
On Belay: The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzodt - Raye C. Ringholz
Climbing Free - Lynn Hill
The Burgess Book of Lies - Adrian and Alan Burgess
The Climb Up To Hell - Jack Olsen
No Way Down - Live and Death on K2 - Graham Bowley
Ascent of the Matterhorn - Edward Whymper.
Men and the Matterhorn - Gaston Rebuffat.
Tiger of the Snows Tenzing Norgay - Liesl Clark
Stories of a young climber : an autobiography - Pat Ament
We Aspired: The Last Innocent Americans - Pete Sinclair
Deborah - David Roberts
Lighting Out - Daniel Duane
Looking for Mo - Daniel Duane
Beyond the Mountain - Steve House
Ways to the Sky: A Historical Guide to North American Mountaineering - Andy Selters
Feeding the Rat - Al Alvarez
No Picnic on Mount Kenya - Felice Benuzzi
Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age - Pat Ament
John Gill: Master of Rock - Pat Ament
Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber - Steve Roper
The Eiger Sanction - Trevanian
THE VILLAIN: A Portrait of Don Whillans - James Perrin
The Vertical World of Yosemite - Galen Rowell
Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America - Pat Ament
The Naked Mountain - Reinhold Messner/Tim Carruthers
The Seventh Grade - Reinhold Messner
Mountaineering In Scotland - WH Murray
Snow in the Kingdom - Ed Webster
No Tigers In The Hindu Kush - Philip Trantor
The Loneliest Mountain - Lincoln Hall
The High Lonesome- John Long
Fall of the Phantom Lord- Andrew Todhunter
The Six Mountain Travel Books- Eric Shipton
Endurance - Alfred Lansing
A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush - Eric Newby
The Breach - Rob Taylor
Against the Wall - Simon Yates
The Flame of Adventure - Simon Yates
An Eye at the Top of the World - Pete Takeda
Breaking Point: Challenge on Alaska's Mt. Hunter - Glenn Randall
Eiger Direct - Peter Gillman/Dougal Haston
Everest: The Testing Place - John B. West
Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge - Chris Bonington /Charles Clarke
High Conquest - James Ramsey Ullman
In High Places - Dougal Haston
Kingdon of Adventure: Everest - James Ramsey Ullman
Land of the Snow Lion - Elaine Brook
Last Days - John Roskelley
On Mountains and Mountaineers - Mike Vause
Orogenic Zones - Terry Gifford/Rosie Smith
Over the Edge - Greg Child
Red Peak - Malcom Slesse
Sacred Summits - Peter Boardman
Seven Summits - Bass/Wells/Ridgeway
Solo Nanga Parbat - Reinhold Messner
Stories Off The Wall - John Roskelley
Storm & Sorrow in the High Pamirs - Robert Craig
The Conquest of Everst - Sir John Hunt
The Great Days - Walter Bonatti
The Guiding Spirit - Kauffman/Putman
The Last Place on Earth - Roland Huntford
The Shining Mountain - Peter Boardman
Thin Air - Greg Child
To the Top of Denali - Bill Sherwonit
A Sunny Day in the Himalaya - Peter Hilary
A Hard Day’s Summer - Alison Hargreaves
A Test of Will - Warren McDonald
Addicted to Danger - Jim Wickwire/Dorothy Bullitt
Alan Rouse: A Mountaineers Life - Geoff Birtles
At the Sharp End - Paul Nunn
Between Heaven and Earth - Gaston Rebuffat
Blind Corners - Geoff Tabin
Climb to the Lost World - Hamish MacInnes
Climbing Everest - Pat Ament
Creagh Dhu Climber - John Cunningham/Jeff Connor
Nothing so Simple as Climbing - G.F. Dutton
Baron von Mabel's Backpacking - Sheridan Anderson
The Ridiculous Mountains - G.F. Dutton
Flammes de Pierre - Anne Sauvy
The Game of Mountain and Chance - Anne Sauvy
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 15, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
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Vote off?
How does that work?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
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I started a new thread that is titled Vote OFF!! that discusses the rules to play.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 15, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
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Let's tease the kilted porridge savage, and post only on this thread. :-)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 15, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
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I've one I'd wager my house on that nobody has
and it is very interesting:
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rocky510
Trad climber
Massachusetts
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Dec 15, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
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Mostly all oldies but remembered as being great when I read them; Bonnington, Heckmair and Messner's being favorites from this list.
Bonatti, Walter - The Great Days
Bonnington, Chris - I Chose To Climb
Brown, Joe - The Hard Years
Cassin, Riccardo - 50 Years Of Alpinism
Gervasutti Giusto - Gervasutti's Climbs
Harding, Warren - Downward Bound: A Mad! Guide To Rock Climbing
Heckmair, Anderl - My Life As A Mountaineer
Long, John - Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, And Hang Dogs
Mazeaud, Pierre - Naked Before The Mountain
Messner, Rheinhold - The Seventh Grade
Roberts, Eric - Whelzenbach's Climbs
Whillans, Don - Portrait Of A Mountaineer
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
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Kilted Porridge Savage I like that I may change my name to that. I am still monitoring this thread too. Thanks all for the contributions. To play in the Vote OFF! reply on this tread or the other one. Thanks!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 15, 2010 - 11:48pm PT
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Gervasutti's Climb has been on several lists and it is a Classic.
Also, did not see Lonely Challenge by Hermann Buhl, another classic. Loaned my original edition copy to Rowell many years ago and never saw it again. Guess I will have to check with my buddy Chessler and see if he has it?
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Dec 16, 2010 - 01:33am PT
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Mr Chessler has an interesting list of his own...on the website.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!