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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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This is one forum where you can;t EVER come on and expect everyone to agree with your position.
Part of the beauty of superT.....
Welcome to town Josh.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
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Thanks. :)
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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You should have pushed the aid climbers in the face. Then kicked their portaledge.
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
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There they were still, sitting on the portaledge feet dangling over the side, no preparation to lead, nothing.
Can't believe there are people on ST defending a party that chooses to clog up a Classic route by camping out as an expression of their personal vision of what climbing is all about.
Some of the defensive posts here are more ridiculous than the actual event.
Totally lame.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Nobody owns the rock, just because you are a strong/fast/experienced climber doesn't mean you have greater access than weak/slow/noobs.
It comes down to first come, first serve. There are many objective hazards to climbing, and many reasons one can't get on a route, such as weather, seasonal closures, and somebody getting on route before you.
If you can't get on a route for whatever reason, have a plan B and plan C route or another climbing area picked out. That way you still get to do some climbing and aren't bumbed out.
Can't imagine having an attitude that won't allow me to have fun when climbing when things don't go my way.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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I saw this gem on another website a while back and thought it somewhat germane (although not addressing this exact situation):
"The 1960's called, they want their single pitch aid climbing style back.
The rise and acceptance of aid "climbing" is a pretty interesting historical phenomena. It began in Europe as a means to overcome very short/difficult passages on much grander mountain routes. Then the Californians bastardized it (as Californians tend to do with everything) to the point that it was an end in itself. Now you have people that will seek out El Cap routes with the MINIMUM possible amount of free climbing. I'm sure the early European mountaineers would be completely flabergasted by this.
But wait, there's more! Now we are to the point where free climbers must ask permission to climb on routes that aid "climbers" have previously "climbed", lest the free climber ruin the "adventure" experience for subsequent aid "climbers" who are seeking the "adventure" of making the 57th repeat of a certain route. The free climber is criticized if he/she adds fixed gear because it had been "climbed" previously without it, and is thus, clearly unnecessary.
Not convinced yet? How 'bout we double the offer?! If someone points out this ridiculous paradox, he is labeled an ELITIST(!!!) and crucified from the nearest bolt ladder (which is drilled into a 20' boulder in some popular local boulder field so that aid "climbers" can practice the complex task of clipping bolts).
Wait for it...."
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Can't believe there are people on ST defending a party that chooses to clog up a Classic route by camping out as an expression of their personal vision of what climbing is all about.
Once again....
I am shocked to see people defending climbing up someone's *ss who happened to be there FIRST, on a free/AID route.
N00bs are n00bs, they have to learn somewhere.
Since when is being first and being slow against the rules?
Clearly, the 5.12 guys should come back another time, or pick another route.
They're so experienced, but didn't have enough sense to not go up under these guys?
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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When I encounter slow parties on routes, I pass them without asking then I dump my pee bottle on their heads. Fight fight fight! Bitchin on Supertopo won't get you anywhere. It just lets you have an excuse for not sending.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Perhaps this should be extrapolated to other routes, such as the Nose of El Capitan. Increasingly a scene of speed ascents, ascents that are 90% free and quick, and a few that want to do it 100% free and spend days or weeks "working" (camping on) the three or four hardest pitches. Add commercial climbing parties to the mix. When 90% or more of climbers are happy to bumble up it in three to five days, perhaps 2/3 free and 1/3 aid.
Who has priority? Who decides?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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The rise and acceptance of aid "climbing" is a pretty interesting historical phenomena. It began in Europe as a means to overcome very short/difficult passages on much grander mountain routes. Then the Californians bastardized it (as Californians tend to do with everything) to the point that it was an end in itself.
Now there's the voice of ignorance. It's like Comici never lived.
Now this, on the other hand, is pretty amusing:
But wait, there's more! Now we are to the point where free climbers must ask permission to climb on routes that aid "climbers" have previously "climbed", lest the free climber ruin the "adventure" experience for subsequent aid "climbers" who are seeking the "adventure" of making the 57th repeat of a certain route. The free climber is criticized if he/she adds fixed gear because it had been "climbed" previously without it, and is thus, clearly unnecessary.
Not convinced yet? How 'bout we double the offer?! If someone points out this ridiculous paradox, he is labeled an ELITIST(!!!) and crucified from the nearest bolt ladder (which is drilled into a 20' boulder in some popular local boulder field so that aid "climbers" can practice the complex task of clipping bolts).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You do trade routes you deal with crowds, slow climbers etc. Do new routes, obscure routes or trade routes during a winter's full moon.
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