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willie!!!!!
Ice climber
honolulu, hawaii
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Feb 16, 2010 - 11:34pm PT
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HAha!!!!
Cool site and good invention, climbingtrash!
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climbingtrash
Trad climber
Virgin, Utah
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Feb 16, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
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Thanks Willie! The Willystick does come in handy at times. Lord knows I've logged a few hours on that sketchy thing. haha.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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After seeing the KS-1 hook made by ksolem, I had a friend mill this alumahook for me.
The throw on the nose is 1/4 in. the foot pads are 1/2 of that. Not much to work with, and surely not going to last forever, but man can you hang on the mini flakes!
Straight downward pull is the name of the game, with just enough nose to get the job done.
I have TR'd with this thing and man can it hold on the thin!
Now just got to try it in the field, gotta project that this was specifically made for.........
Slack PINNNG!!!
Thanks again Kris for the info.
Mucci
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 31, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
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Hey Mucci - Sorry I flaked and never sent you the dimensions on mine. Just as well though, it looks like you have hit the nail on the head with that one. Make a few variants and you'll be on your way to getting in some serious trouble...
Regarding wear, just carefully refinish the hooking edge with a fine file every so often.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
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Yeah, gotta trim the feet down and narrow the stance. As to the head, we left it wide and square just to test it out.
The next one will have a nose that is 1/2 the size so 3/8in or so. He got the hole drilled right the first time, this is key as is the size of the cable so that it lays in the channel flush and does not impede the seating of the feet.
Man, huge sack needed for these little buggers.
Kris's KS-1 is MUCH smaller. I dig the stubby feet on that design, less metal to rock.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 31, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
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Nice tool ya got there, Mucci.
Nice.
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climbinginchico
Trad climber
Modesto, CA
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Mar 31, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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Half the fun of slab climbing is finding either the stance that the bolt was drilled from, or figuring out which flake (if it's still there!) was hooked. Salamanizer and I had fun figuring this out on Royal Arches Apron a couple weekends ago.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
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There you go! ^^^^^
Those look equally terrifying! HA!
Looks good, same principle and an already proven base (foot).
The advantage with the aluminum hook is it can "Sink into" the placement, yet the leaper can be filed and trimmed and never lose it's holding power or form.
Thin hooking, if it holds get on it.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Mar 31, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
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Hey now, that thing looks sweet. I've got a bunch of those old Leeper hooks, maybe I'll grind one down and give it a try.
Mucci, I've got just the place to try one of those little suckers out once the sun moves a little further north.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 31, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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Does the sling under the filed down leeper ever get in the way, or leverage you out Chief?
KS-1s seem smaller and lighter than the KS-MJ hook. or is the pic distorting? If bigger are thinking of going smaller on the next rev?
wicked awesome
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
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The KS-1 is smaller in total size, ours is 2" tall because we started with a 2" piece.
We are gonna see if we can trim the feet down to the size of pencil erasers. That way the hook will sit in more features and avoid the irregularities in the rock.
Also, the cable swage is 8" long, I think Kris used a hb offset? The hook is so small you need a really long extension to keep the direction of pull straight down.
The best setup would be to tie a runner or cord to the wire loop, further reducing the distance the cable is from the rock. I did not use a biner when testing the hook.
They will be available for the SA of WOS, now there are no excuses, and no need to find the "Original placements".
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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kewl, thx for the insights
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Sorry for the thread drift but I gotta ask Mucci-
is this guy a relative?
Col Henry Mucci-boss of the Ghost Soldiers (Rangers)
One bad MoFo!
OK, carry on...
edit:
I encourage everyone to read Ghost Soldiers by Hampton Sides.
Col Mucci and his men did an amazing job.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Josh,
> They will be available for the SA of WOS,
Did you know The Chief already repeated all the hard slab hooking pitches on WoS?
[Edit: ] Yeah, those pitches look like the crux. They repeated not just through p3, but the full slab - all the way to where the route traverses.
Maybe you are thinking of recently, where Ammon repeated through p3.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2010 - 02:08am PT
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Reilly- That is great uncle Mucci!
My grandfather (dad's DAd) looked EXACTLY like him, though they were not brothers.
He is part of dad's family but through marriage.
There was a huge poster of the initial crew led by Col Henry Mucci at the top of the escalators in the Holocaust Museum in DC.
When my father got to the top of the escalator, he began cryin. The stories and downright resemblance to his father was too much in that museum.
Thanks for the post,
Clint- I did not know that Chief repeated the pitches, I thought only through P3?
Man, so what's the hold up? aren't those pitches the crux?
Thanks for the word Clint, I was joking about the intended use :)
Mucci
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