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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 7, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
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Nothing better than putting on a shaky hook and taking that big breath before you commit.
So let's see em!
Maybe this will get you Hooker's to post up.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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FA of Crimping Lessons 5.11c - Astro Domes - Joshua Tree
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Mucci, where the hell is that???
I don't have any pictures. If someone was snapping shots while I was way run out standing on a shakey hook insteat of ready to pull slack...
I'd kill em'.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Boy some of your pictures look pretty unsafe. Couldn't one of those hook thingys slip off the rock? This whole drilling with hooks thing sounds pretty bogus to me. Wouldn't it be safer just to do it with a top rope? Like this guy?
Edit to confirm that this post was made in "Joke" mode.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
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Tea
Trad climber
Behind the Zion Curtain
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Nice Mucci!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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where the fuk did you find that ghost?
that's some crap.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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that's some crap.
I'll say! Not a hookable stance anywhere. I don't even know why that guy is bolting in the first place -- how would anybody be able to climb that wall when it doesn't have any holds????
[Munge: I don't remember where I found that picture. Pretty weird though.]
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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I'm no expert , but I think that crack would take gear duh .
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Social,
what the sh#t are you hooked on?!?!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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hahaha, nice ghost. yup.
/munge goes back to scratching his head over that one.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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I believe Greg Epperson took this shot, not sure.
Establishing Suicidal Tendencies 11c/d Smith Rocks
Hey kid remember this, did I get the right route and rating?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Courtright Reservoir/Voyager Rock/Gold Standard/1990
Rachel McCollum looking on.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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boreal ballet shoe sighting!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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I loved those shoes Munge probably had at least a few resoles. : )
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
State of Insanity
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It would be probably best to not show the tiny dime-thin edges I have hung off a hook, while another foot edging on another dime-thin edge! But then again .. Not using a POWER DRILL .............. Yie Yie Yie!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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T2, yeah, I still have a pair. They stink to high heaven, but I'm finding they are the best shoe ever for all around work.
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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T2 - You are right it's Suicidal Tendancies 5.11d
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Rand-
folks don't so that stuff anymore, too hard and too easy to use the bosch.
rick
(weeps)
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Pound pound pound pound pound.... ouch oh f*#k .... pound pound pound pound ...ouch oh f*#k ...
Using the worlds smallest hook..... "RURH"
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Sal,
The shot of Mucci is on the FA of "Slack Ping" and unfinished project
on Owl Wall in Shuteye Ridge. Given the name of the climb and the title of the tread I think you realize what fun I had with Mucci that day!
kev
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mucci,
Got that shot of me with the yellow jackets feasting on my ankles?
kev
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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You guys are crazy, where's your eye protection?
Crazy!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I'm against the death penalty, but that guy on top rope drilling next to a perfect red camalot crack could change my mind.
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joeblow
climber
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Hard to believe that some of you guys are still being hooked by a 4 year old troll. That pic, of a guy bolting the crack, has been posted here and on every climbing site I can think of, more than once.
Found this posting to questions about this pic, it was posted July '06.
"It "apears" as if I am bolting a easy, perfectly protectable crack on good rock. But your eyes are deceiving you.
In reality.... that's not rock, it's rotten granite mud, we call it choss around here. That's not a perfectly protectable crack, it's a 50' loose, detatched pillar of junk, that was flexing more than 1/2" while I held in to drill the bolt, which also holds up another 40' of giant loose deathblocks that must be climbed to reach the anchors. That's not a easy(10a) sportbolted crack, it's deathwish. 100' of your worse loose rock nightmares, protected by bolts, that can be climbed by an experienced climber willing to take a chance. Defiantly not for your typical weekend warrior.
and oh yea... Bolting a perfectly protectable crack is just wrong."
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
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Kev, at a sloping stance, with bad gear, and a swarm of yellowjackets thwarting him whilst hooking.
Whimpering occured
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Josh,
How da f*#k did you get the credit for the pic of you I shot - damn that mac brah....
Soon, soon back in shuteye!
Wish you'd gotten the swarm shots - those f*#kers HURT...
kev
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 12:55am PT
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It's actually Jeff's credit, he was over by the slab laughing at us for most of the time. Except when he turned into the HUMAN BOSCH!
Oh and I do remember a sting.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Well I was prolly drunk so that must explain my confusion....
can't f*#king wait to get back!!!
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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ooooooo.....breathe....carefully.....tap tap tap......ooooooooo
-n
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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nice shot T2 and yes you got it right. scary route, good times..
ks
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Somebody has to have more pics...?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Well, if you insist here's one more...
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Hey Kev you said shuteye soon eh?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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That pic Guyman Keesee posted above where he says he is on the worlds smallest hook? This is the one:
The idea is that there is no outward prying action on thin dicey flakes, just downward pressure... it's milled from a block of 6061T6.
Good luck!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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here's a couple...
1984 math of the pastor..
first bolt i ever drilled.
us and them, jtree 1982...
new school- potrero chico- time for living. pitch 3..
word to the stance driller..
kurt
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Cool stuff Ksolem, Your pictures through out this thread are great.
Kid: I knew you had some stuff to add here. Nice!
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
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stance drilling ... he may be using a hook to his harness, I can't remember
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
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Nice stuff Boyz!
Keep em coming... Must be more hookers out there!
KSolem- I remember reading about those hooks, very nice design! I also heard that someone had extras around from the prototype days?
Do you have the specs? or on the long shot....want to get rid of one of those? I could sure put one of those to use.
On a side note, I have modified a few hooks (chopping the tips off of skyhooks) which allows them to have a lower stance on the slabs just like "Socialbolter's" pic. Nice placement!
What are some mods that are worth checking into? Anybody?
WH+HOOOP!!
Mucci
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I just have the one left. Gave the rest to friends.
You can make the easily if you have a buddy who has a milling machine. The aluminum is very easy to work...
You can pretty much get the dimensions from my pics, or email me and I'll measure the thing up and send you the details. Notice of course that the beak sticks out further than the feet. This is key. It is also a variable you can play with if you make a few.
Also, the use of the wired nut at an angle puts inward pressure on the feet.
It really works (except when it doesn't...)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
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OH YEaH Todd!
"Look Ma, no hands!!!"
Classic.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
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Kris, that hook is sweet!
Seam Stress looks dicey...nice work there. Voyager, over on the left end?
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Todd -
I don't have many pics, despite how many bolts I placed from hooks over the years. You on the other hand, have many pics I'm sure. Please share with us...
 Louie
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
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Louie- That pic of you with that tipped out skyhook is spooky!
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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I'm mainly a rap bolter these days (due primarily to the choss I choose to bolt), but I do have very fond memories of being scared to death either stance drilling or trusting sketchy hooks. This thread has shown me that I'm not the only one who relishes this special type of fear.
Thank you to everyone for sharing your experiences, and for taking the time to give us all more climbing options by bolting in the first place. I, and the community at large, thank you.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 10, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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I hate hooks!
Climb up steep knobs where anything good might break, forearms flaming from overcrimping and the two 3/8" bolts you just hand-drilled in granite, find a hook placement (but of course anything hookable is even more likely to snap!), screw around finding the hook, unclip it, pull it up and it catches on your harness and you almost drop it, fiddle with it to get it free, bring it up to grab with your teeth, switch hands, try to shake out but if you could really shake out you wouldn't need the hook in the first place, then place the hook but oh-shiite-the-hook-doesn't-sit-right-it-only-has-one-foot-on-the-rock, clip it with a long sling, extend the sling, downclimb back to a spot where you can clip it and you dare trying to weight it knowing that you won't actually weight it all the way since it will surely snap (let alone bounce test it), and then your partner wants to take a picture?!?!? so you say OK and try not to fall off while you pretend to fully weight the hook...which you eventually half-weight and then move back up and end up 3/4-weighting with one good foothold while you break out the 1/4" drill and start tapping without even slightly shifting the angle you are weighting the hook at since the last time you dared hang from a hook and you shifted your body angle it popped and took a chunk out of the helmet...
Photos by Jonathan duSaint, 2006 - FA of Kill Bill, South Face of Medlicott (what I've started calling The Wart since it seems more appropriate & less confusing - it looks like a wart on Medlicott from the top of Mariuolumne, there are frogs around, and one of the old routes is Yosemite Barking Toads):
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Feb 11, 2010 - 11:30pm PT
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FA of Crimping Lessons 11c - South Astro Dome - Joshua Tree
People are asking why I'm holding the drill the way I am in this pic. Those of you who have trusted delicate hooks like this one know that body position and ZERO movement is the key to making them stick. This position just worked the best.
Come on people - post your pics!
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climbingtrash
Trad climber
Virgin, Utah
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Feb 11, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
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The "Legendary" Joe French...Happy hooking and hand drilling in Zion.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 12, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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Andy Genereux is a Calgary local who has put up hundreds of routes including many multi pitch 5.11s done ground up, on the lead, and solo using hooks and a Hilti. One time he was putting up a new route in the Ghost hanging on to a flake with one hand while holding the Hilti with the other. The flake snapped when the hole was partially done leaving all his weight on the drill which was still partially turning. Unfortunately his gear sling was strangling him in the process. He got out of that one and named the route Hang Em High.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 12, 2010 - 10:16am PT
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climbing bump
EDIT
Actually drilling bump :)
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Feb 13, 2010 - 02:46am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 13, 2010 - 03:13am PT
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great shot Strider!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
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Feb 16, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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climbingtrash, please clarify! WTF is that thing!?
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scottpedition
climber
One valley or the other
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Feb 16, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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In case you missed the link: http://climbingtrash.com/thewillystick.html
"If you lean into the wall too far the stick will spin and give you a ride we call the Windshield Wiper."
Taking windshield wiper: there's a ride I wouldn't mind missing, especially on rock as featured as that!
Scott
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 16, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
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jghedge,
sounds like modified ground up, aka previewing and rehearsal. It prevents having to drill if the route doesn't actually 'go' - aka avoid a bolt ladder or hook ladder.
what kind of difficulty was the guy working?
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Feb 16, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
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I think sometimes the situation warrants this. Especially if the route needs a lot of cleaning and you're worried about dropping a bomb on your belayer.
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willie!!!!!
Ice climber
honolulu, hawaii
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Feb 16, 2010 - 11:34pm PT
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HAha!!!!
Cool site and good invention, climbingtrash!
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climbingtrash
Trad climber
Virgin, Utah
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Feb 16, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
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Thanks Willie! The Willystick does come in handy at times. Lord knows I've logged a few hours on that sketchy thing. haha.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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After seeing the KS-1 hook made by ksolem, I had a friend mill this alumahook for me.
The throw on the nose is 1/4 in. the foot pads are 1/2 of that. Not much to work with, and surely not going to last forever, but man can you hang on the mini flakes!
Straight downward pull is the name of the game, with just enough nose to get the job done.
I have TR'd with this thing and man can it hold on the thin!
Now just got to try it in the field, gotta project that this was specifically made for.........
Slack PINNNG!!!
Thanks again Kris for the info.
Mucci
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 31, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
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Hey Mucci - Sorry I flaked and never sent you the dimensions on mine. Just as well though, it looks like you have hit the nail on the head with that one. Make a few variants and you'll be on your way to getting in some serious trouble...
Regarding wear, just carefully refinish the hooking edge with a fine file every so often.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
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Yeah, gotta trim the feet down and narrow the stance. As to the head, we left it wide and square just to test it out.
The next one will have a nose that is 1/2 the size so 3/8in or so. He got the hole drilled right the first time, this is key as is the size of the cable so that it lays in the channel flush and does not impede the seating of the feet.
Man, huge sack needed for these little buggers.
Kris's KS-1 is MUCH smaller. I dig the stubby feet on that design, less metal to rock.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 31, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
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Nice tool ya got there, Mucci.
Nice.
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climbinginchico
Trad climber
Modesto, CA
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Mar 31, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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Half the fun of slab climbing is finding either the stance that the bolt was drilled from, or figuring out which flake (if it's still there!) was hooked. Salamanizer and I had fun figuring this out on Royal Arches Apron a couple weekends ago.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
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There you go! ^^^^^
Those look equally terrifying! HA!
Looks good, same principle and an already proven base (foot).
The advantage with the aluminum hook is it can "Sink into" the placement, yet the leaper can be filed and trimmed and never lose it's holding power or form.
Thin hooking, if it holds get on it.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Mar 31, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
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Hey now, that thing looks sweet. I've got a bunch of those old Leeper hooks, maybe I'll grind one down and give it a try.
Mucci, I've got just the place to try one of those little suckers out once the sun moves a little further north.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 31, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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Does the sling under the filed down leeper ever get in the way, or leverage you out Chief?
KS-1s seem smaller and lighter than the KS-MJ hook. or is the pic distorting? If bigger are thinking of going smaller on the next rev?
wicked awesome
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
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The KS-1 is smaller in total size, ours is 2" tall because we started with a 2" piece.
We are gonna see if we can trim the feet down to the size of pencil erasers. That way the hook will sit in more features and avoid the irregularities in the rock.
Also, the cable swage is 8" long, I think Kris used a hb offset? The hook is so small you need a really long extension to keep the direction of pull straight down.
The best setup would be to tie a runner or cord to the wire loop, further reducing the distance the cable is from the rock. I did not use a biner when testing the hook.
They will be available for the SA of WOS, now there are no excuses, and no need to find the "Original placements".
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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kewl, thx for the insights
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Sorry for the thread drift but I gotta ask Mucci-
is this guy a relative?
Col Henry Mucci-boss of the Ghost Soldiers (Rangers)
One bad MoFo!
OK, carry on...
edit:
I encourage everyone to read Ghost Soldiers by Hampton Sides.
Col Mucci and his men did an amazing job.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Josh,
> They will be available for the SA of WOS,
Did you know The Chief already repeated all the hard slab hooking pitches on WoS?
[Edit: ] Yeah, those pitches look like the crux. They repeated not just through p3, but the full slab - all the way to where the route traverses.
Maybe you are thinking of recently, where Ammon repeated through p3.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2010 - 02:08am PT
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Reilly- That is great uncle Mucci!
My grandfather (dad's DAd) looked EXACTLY like him, though they were not brothers.
He is part of dad's family but through marriage.
There was a huge poster of the initial crew led by Col Henry Mucci at the top of the escalators in the Holocaust Museum in DC.
When my father got to the top of the escalator, he began cryin. The stories and downright resemblance to his father was too much in that museum.
Thanks for the post,
Clint- I did not know that Chief repeated the pitches, I thought only through P3?
Man, so what's the hold up? aren't those pitches the crux?
Thanks for the word Clint, I was joking about the intended use :)
Mucci
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