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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 18, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
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Some butt head had done that to Trenchwarfare, the last time I led it, so incredibly distracting........Grumble
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 18, 2010 - 03:36pm PT
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"Stop talking and start chalking!"
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jan 18, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
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Weirdly, Bleau can feel a lot more pristine.
Really? And yet there are permanent color coded markings, numbers, and arrows at the base of every problem at Bleau, (demarcating difficulty and the circuits, for those who haven't been). I despise tick marks and heavy chalked up holds as much as anyone, but heaven forbid we start painting the rock here in America. Or have we started already, and I'm just unawares?
white for the children's circuit
marking maintenance
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dirhk
Trad climber
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Jan 18, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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Quoting mungeclimber:
when you tick mark, it says "I'm such a horrible climber I need a mark to tell me where the hold is, and oh btw, land managers, climbers are so stupid that they leave big marks on the boulders so that it is almost like graffitti! woot!"
Big Up made a video of these horrible climbers, and called it Progression. Here are some screenshots:
Tommy Caldwell:
Alex Honnold:
Hey it's not new school:
Daniel Woods:
Kevin Jorgeson:
Paul Robinson:
Photos could be removed upon request, is this illegal?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jan 18, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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any photos of the offending eyesore(s)?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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Do all those locations have access issues or a combination of that and high visibility to other park visitors?
if yes, the standard is the same.
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Queener
Mountain climber
Fresno / Monterey/Reedley, CA
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
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bluering
Well to me the bigger problem at Castle is the busted beer bottles and graffiti.
What? You must mean Summit Rock. And for all this whining I gotta say CRSP is actually a pretty pristine park (aside from tick marks). When was the last time you guys were there? I never see any trash out there.
Go over to the backside of Indian rock, the San Jose side. Go down to the base of that and take a look around.... its sprinkled with broken glass. It is ridiculous. People toss them off from the base of Donkey Dong... The most concentrated area is right next to Santa Cruz Dude. Take a look, and where thick shoes.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:09pm PT
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Yeah, a bunch of those boys in the photos have ADDED bolts to existing lines, Rap bolted routes in Ground up areas, and sent the hardest sh#t in the world.....
WE are talkin about CRSP with a bunch of prana wearin, clean toothbrush holding, 5 gallon bucket of chalk carrying, 8 maxi pad per send POOFTER's who don't send. I have never seen a kid with a trash bag in his hand doing a little clean up at CR. I do this EVERYWHERE I climb.
So is trash worse than ticks worse than ground deterioration worse than chipping worse than......
Oh and Rob J- take that silly sh#t about the chalk and sell it to the POOFTER's
Mucci
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Queener
Mountain climber
Fresno / Monterey/Reedley, CA
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:15pm PT
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Mucci,
WE are talkin about CRSP with a bunch of prana wearin, clean toothbrush holding, 5 gallon bucket of chalk carrying, 8 maxi pad per send POOFTER's who don't send. I have never seen a kid with a trash bag in his hand doing a little clean up at CR. I do this EVERYWHERE I climb.
I am a kid. I wear Prana. I have one chalk bag, complete with brush. I normally truck in two crash pads on my back. I send, a lot. I clean up trash, alone.
If we all set up a day to do trail clean ups then we all won't be doing it alone.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
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Here, Queenie??
It must be a recent development, the glass, but I haven't been to the backside of Indian in a while.
I did find a couple of vintage 70's PBR cans though.
Sorry for the 'Queenie' jab, I couldn't resist...
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
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Hi,
what I don't get is how come no one is defending the practice on this forum. If there are enough people who tic mark surely some one has a logical argument as to why? May I also pose another question? Why are you using chalk in winter anyway? Do your hands really get that sweaty on cold rock in january?
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Queener
Mountain climber
Fresno / Monterey/Reedley, CA
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
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It must be a recent development, the glass, but I haven't been to the backside of Indian in a while.
Sorry for the 'Queenie' jab, I couldn't resist...
Dude, you can't come close to offending me... I went to school. I know every possible variation there.
I was there on the back side about three months ago. The ground was sparkling with glass. Like everywhere within throwing distance. I have no reason to make this story up. There was so much glass it was ridiculous. I tried picking some up and filled up my coffee cup. Sierra was the beer of choice.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
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Queen- rally your troops then, I consistently see large mob's descending on the Castle who don't have your ethic.
I appreciate all who put in selfless hours of rehab in our spots, problem is the groups I have seen at the Castle don't do anything to better the area.
This generation I speak of is bred from the gym, and have no business outside. Can't tell you how many rats I have had to save with ropes on high balls at castle.
Hell Bluey and I met a kid at an anchor who threaded his rope through the hangers, oblivious to our comments that a rap anchor was 5 feet behind him. His response "I have done this a hundred times" To which I responded " I know I have carried more than a few guys like you out to the ambulance"
Poofter's
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
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Queener, I was just talking to a buddy at work here who is one of my regular partners and brought up your comment regarding Indian and he said,"What, he must be talking about Summit", and also commented that Indian isn't CRSP, but that's besides the point really.
We concluded that what has probably happened is that the Summit party-goers have since moved the 'party' to Indian. They prolly scramble up the front (road) side and party at the top with the spectacular view of San Jose's lights at night. And then chuck bottles off.
They prolly left Summit because it's closed and patrolled more now.
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Queener
Mountain climber
Fresno / Monterey/Reedley, CA
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:49pm PT
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Is there any good solution to cleaning chalk caked on the rock? I've scrubbed a hell of a long time to get even a little chalk off the holds. Obviously brushes don't work unless you have hours on hand. What else could work to speed the clean up process faster than the application from dorks with buckets of chalk?
-Q
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:58pm PT
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Is there any good solution to cleaning chalk caked on the rock?
The best thing is probably a mild solution of carbonic acid and water...or rain.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
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Jan 18, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
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Queener,
try vinegar. The acetic acid in the vinegar should react with the magnesium carbonate, producing magnesium acetate and carbonic acid (which should break down into CO2 and H2O). However, don't use vinegar if you're cleaning limestone. You'll just dissolve the rock.
-Nick
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 18, 2010 - 05:50pm PT
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. . . there are permanent color coded markings, numbers, and arrows at the base of every problem at Bleau, (demarcating difficulty and the circuits, for those who haven't been). I despise tick marks and heavy chalked up holds as much as anyone, but heaven forbid we start painting the rock here in America.
That's true. In Fontainebleau, that tradition dof painting arrows on the rock ates back to the early 19th century, before the rise of technical rock climbing. The earliest leisure trails in the woods were marked by painting small blue arrows on the rocks to indicate direction and distance.
In the US, signposting is usually done with big fabricated signs. In France, the tradition instead (where possible), is to paint arrows on the rocks. I don't see that habit as more invasive or annoying than our preference for big ugly signs.
Climbers apparently began using arrows on technical circuits back in the 1950s. They don't bother me much, since they're not much different from the ones used on the hiking trails. Left alone, they sun fade pretty rapidly. They are closely regulated at 'Bleau by a climber coalition-- COSIROC --in affiliation with the land managers, so they don't appear haphazardly.
They really don't bother me, anymore than the tiny arrows Gill put on some of his problems.
So yes, if we had a comparable history (which we don't), I'd much prefer to see a small red arrow at the base of my favorite CR V5 than the jillions of white lines, tics, arrows, prints, and slobber marks splattering tiny white ball bearings over all the footholds I saw the last frickin time I was there.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 18, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
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blue, you put any kind of acid on Castle Rock choss and you will be left with little to climb.
I was making a rain joke, Wes. As a hydrologist you should know that rain contains a very mild amount of carbonic acid. Hence the weathering effects of rain.
I learned that in introductory Geology in college, surely you know this too.
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Srbphoto
Trad climber
Kennewick wa
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Jan 18, 2010 - 06:46pm PT
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How do you fellas feel about "landing strips?"
Yes, especially on brunettes.
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