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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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Minerals,
My topo, the latest ST Big Wall book doesn't mention anything loose right there. Doug said he ran into some missing rivets but was able to hook past them. I'll be ready either way.
I'll be arriving TR via Grape Race. I'm going to swing right on Nose pitch 18 where it swings left to the ledges leading to Camp 4. My plan is to move up one more pitch and bivy on top of TR p2 from then on I'm on a 2 pitch a day schedule and am planning on spending a whole day doing nothing on top of either p6 or 8.
I'm trying to one up PTPP by inventing a "big wall cooler" and having ice cold beer way up there on the wall!
I guess this is the start of my "Digging a Hole Motivational Program".
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
You wanted to!
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Jan 22, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
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Yowza!
Yeah, I remember those rivets. Real short machine heads.
You'll have a blast up there, Mark!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Jan 22, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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LOL!
Ah, so you will be going solo, Mark. Did not know that. Right on! You will have a ton of fun! The location up there is so cool – what a position up high! There is a little bit of tricky climbing here and there but nothing to scare the piss out of you. The ST says A4 on the second(?) pitch, after the A1 awkward section, I think… This wasn’t too bad; I just did two stretcher bugaboo placements that seemed pretty good, but I have a long reach. The RURP pitch is way fun – you will love it, and I bet you can find a use for your Tomahawks on that pitch!
Big Wall Cooler for ice-cold beer? Hmmmm, maybe you and Fish can patent something like that… I like your style! Don’t short yourself in that department!
Good times, we had, aye Skully?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
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Someone mentioned the need for a lot of medium beaks. I'd use Tomahawks if they were available....
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 22, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
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One-up me, eh? Well, I did make the First Solo Shower Ascent of El Cap, so far as I am aware.
It would be cool to get a small propane-powered fridge, one that works using evaporative refrigeration, rather than the more common reciprocating compressor thingy. [Some HVAC engineer I am, eh? Sheesh]
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flyn
Big Wall climber
las vegas
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Jan 22, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
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The people who say that making heads is easy probably haven't made too many of them. No offense. Fingers get ground raw from pinching the wire. Most ameteur heads have wire poking out the swage that stick you continuously and get caught on every piece of fabric available.
It is Easy to get pricked with the ends of the wires constantly. If you cut any small edges off the wires you'll find them in your feet for years.
Often people do mistake the wire size with the swage size resulting in failing connections. On the first pitch of Nightmare, Hollinger ended up having to choke the swage on a single strand of 1/16" wire with a tie off repeatedly due to breaking swages.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
You wanted to!
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Jan 22, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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It is a FINE thing to use a copperhead made by a craftsman, like Minerals or Klaus or somebody.......There was some story floatin' around when Ammon & I climbed Mescalito about some Euros(no offense) that pulled a rivet hanger swage through. I guess somebody got hurt. I hung my ledge on one, all the same.
Use crap stuff, you get crap results, eh? (yarrrr)
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