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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 14, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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Where to get them?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 12:01am PT
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Fish doesn't seem to be responding to emails these days. I'm not in a big hurry but I want to know that I'm going to get what I need by the time I need it.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 12:07am PT
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No, not me.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 15, 2010 - 12:09am PT
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Klaus has made me a few, very nice. He also re-swaged my A5 beaks.
Hit him up if your in SF.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 15, 2010 - 12:09am PT
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They are, easy to make, but tell Russ when you need them and you will have them in your hand in time.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 12:13am PT
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Sweet, thanks.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 15, 2010 - 12:23am PT
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oh no, our free climbing legend is crossing to the dark side!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 12:30am PT
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Well...let's just say I'm living in both worlds.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 15, 2010 - 12:40am PT
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Yeah, what Rox said. If you were in Seattle , I could make a bunch for you. Super easy to make all types.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 15, 2010 - 12:43am PT
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Lance,
> Easy and safe.
> A few bucks in cable, a few swages and a cheap-ass tool.
> All you need, all you want.
> Dead simple.
This can work, if you match the cable size/material and swage size/material exactly.
If you don't match them properly, you can get a very weak swaged connection which can fail under body weight.
It happened to me.
A few years back, I made some #0 sized rivet hangers with the swaging tool I use to repair cam trigger wires, using some random stainless cable and #0 size swages.
They held my 135 pounds, but failed under body weight of my partner, and then they were lent out by mistake, and my friend Greg took a big whipper when one failed on the bolt ladder below Chickenhead Ledge on the Shield....
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Jan 15, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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Yep... simple to make... not so simple to make RIGHT.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 15, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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Mark, I can set you up, just give a shout if you're going to be down in town some time.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Jan 15, 2010 - 12:59am PT
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I agree with the suggestion to make them yourself. I've always done that and it's nice to be able to customize the cable lengths and make specialty heads (i.e.: circle heads, double heads, etc.).
If you have any friends that would want heads to help share in the costs of materials, then it's even more of a no-brainer. Fire up the BBQ and have a head making party.
You could always sell them to others too. Most important thing is to make sure you don't let the doubled back cable stick out of the bottom of the heads. Not only do they fray and get caught on everything, but they'll cut you up pretty easily too. Also, make sure you match cable and swages sizes properly.
All you need is some swages, cable and a crimping tool. Have at it!
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 15, 2010 - 01:43am PT
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I have a massive amount of unused made by Fish heads that I will never use. All sizes, circle heads and regular, aluminum and copper. Quite the pile. Send me a message and your grocery list. I can keep you going forever. Hundreds. Remember BITD when you would take a hundred on your rack and use them all?
Free to Mark Hudon. Badass free climber that I used to read about in my youth. All you other guys can choke on it.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Jan 15, 2010 - 01:46am PT
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Good to see gestures like that BASE. Another great thing about our community...
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 15, 2010 - 04:16am PT
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hey i got a bunch of wall hardware Im selling - 60 pins, lots of thin stuff like blades, rurps, hooks etc, and i have 8 actual copperheads, 5 small and 3 med, some used but not mangled and a dozen more unused mashers of different wire length and head sizes - if you want more info or pics of the goods email me at gonamok@yahoo.com.
ron
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 15, 2010 - 04:35am PT
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I bet I have 200 heads sitting in one of my haulbags in my garage. At least 200. Plus I have a pin rack to die for. Plus I have one of those massive Yates wall ropes that I never used. Sucker is way heavy. It holds a zillion falls or something.
Then I have the usual...coreshot ropes (hey! they still work!). Real jumars. I never could get used to anything but the old jumars. Those only have one el cap route on them. I used to stay in the valley as long as I could, and sell off my rack to stay longer. Always got a new one over the winter. So I have a massive mint rack.
Mark, just click on my avatar thingy and send me an email. I can get you what you want as fast as I can dig through the mess and get them in the mail. I am ashamed that I have such a pristine head collection that I never got to use.
I had some big plans that got shot down by life.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 15, 2010 - 09:21am PT
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Way to step up with those surplus Fisheads, Mr H! What are you thinking about getting up on, Mark? Done much heading?
You may not be Dr. Demento...but
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum
In the morning,
Laughing happy fish heads,
In the evening,
Floating in the soup,
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum
Ask a fish head,
Anything you want to,
They won't answer,
They can't talk
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum
I took a fish head,
Out to see a movie,
Didn't have to pay
To get it in
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum
They cant play baseball,
They dont wear sweaters,
There not good dancers,
They dont play drums
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum
Roly poly fish heads are never seen
Drinking cappucino in Italian resturants,
With oriental women, yeah
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum, (yum!)
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum
Fish heads fish heads,
Roly poly fish heads,
Fish heads fish heads,
Eat them up yum,
Yea..
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