Half Dome-On the Edge -Bard & Meyers 1975 Anyone Done It?

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ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

bouldering

Mar 31, 2012 - 02:39am PT

That first Xrez capture up-thread suggests an independent (face) line left of On the Edge. Opps, Sean Jones isn't reading this, is he?

David Wilson

climber

Mar 31, 2012 - 01:23pm PT

Let's keep this up on the list so Katie goes for the send and gets some pics for us....

squishy

Mountain climber

Sep 18, 2012 - 03:23pm PT

This area looks sweet, I wonder if there's easier passage than a 5.11 chimney...

nutjob

Gym climber

Berkeley, CA

Sep 18, 2012 - 03:47pm PT

I took a bunch of pics while sitting at the apex of the diving board a few months ago... waiting to get back the camera that has them and get them uploaded. I wasn't 100% sure if I was looking at the right line. Bushido Gully looks like more of an adventure than I would have expected. That is worthy of a visit I would say.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Sep 18, 2012 - 04:10pm PT

Does anyone know how On the Edge's location compares to that of the Kamps/Rearick West Corner route in the two Roper guides (rated III, 5.8, A3)?

I meant to ask Dale that several decades ago, but I'm not sure he could have answered it even then.

John

10b4me

Ice climber

dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel

Sep 18, 2012 - 04:19pm PT

thanks for bumping this. those pics are really cool. I wonder if Katie ever got it done.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Sep 18, 2012 - 04:23pm PT

looked at it last weekend
Zander may have some pictures of the line... perhaps if he has time he can post them.

It all looks completely possible, until you look over your left shoulder at the huge exposure... that exposure would test one's equanimity on lead!

splitter

Trad climber

Hodad, surfing the galactic plane

Sep 18, 2012 - 06:31pm PT

I am surprized that this hasn't seen a SA after all these years (or has it?). I suspect the R rating of the FA would prollie no longer stand since it cud most likely be protected by large cams.

It would seem that this route would be very alluring for a variety of reasons. Where is the sense of adventure, that characterized the FA team, these days? Just sayin'!

edit: seems like peeps have developed the tendency to analyze everything with a fine tooth comb before they even consider it. Then they procrastinate it into oblivion (see this thread for examples, lol).

Zander

climber

Sep 18, 2012 - 06:57pm PT

Here ya go.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

bouldering

Sep 23, 2012 - 01:39am PT

▲▲ The route goes up the obvious dihedral (below the tree/ bush)? Looks like there's some direct start options either way.

ragof

Sport climber

belgium

Apr 12, 2013 - 08:40am PT

Hi I am from belgium and planning to come climbing in the US next year. My friend and I were wondering if this route is bolted or if everything has to be done in trad climbing.

We are actually looking for a long route mainly bolted (we have no problems with using a few C4 from times to timeswhen itis needed)
The snake dyke route seems a bit to easy for use while the nose is way too complicated; this one looks like a great compromise (every pitch below 5.11a works perfect)
We ve climb big walls in france (not that big (400m) but it was bolted almost all the way to the top)

so the question is finally are the last pitches really 5.11C or easier and is it at least a bit bolted ?

thx so much

Bad Climber

climber

Apr 12, 2013 - 09:07am PT

Hey, Ragof: If you're looking for sport climbing (bolts), this is NOT the route for you. On the Edge is hardcore, old school traditional climbing and why it has seen so few ascents--in addition to being quite difficult with flared, awkward crux and being a big hike to get to it. If you're looking for a fun, long bolted route, check out Crest Jewel, 5.10a. Some of the easier pitches are run out, but the hard pitches are very well protected. Super route! I've done it--ahem--seven times. Best approach is to hike in from Tioga road and stash extra gear at the top of the dome.

Go do it!

BAd

ragof

Sport climber

belgium

Apr 12, 2013 - 09:51am PT

-->BAd: thank you for that fast answer,be sure we ll check it out. That was a good advice! thx

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Nov 5, 2013 - 01:19pm PT

It's hard to imagine what climbing a 5.11 chimney in the sky would feel like, but there is no doubt it'd be an experience to remember. What allure this line has. But if you're not up to snuff, imagine how hosed you'd be if you wanted to bail from somewhere in the middle there...

Peter Haan's X-Rez capture from the last page, putting it up again because oh my god it's glorious:

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Nov 5, 2013 - 04:28pm PT

[quote]I wonder if there's easier passage than a 5.11 chimney[/quote

.... That's the whole point....

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Nov 5, 2013 - 05:24pm PT

John,
Reading Roper's description, I believe the West Corner coincides with On the Edge, until a big arch on the right.
I updated my overlay to add the West Corner:

robSJ

Ice climber

san jose

Apr 19, 2015 - 05:27pm PT

I climbed On The Edge recently. I don't post much on here, but figured people might be interested in more info on this killer route! Very good, clean rock and fun climbing. A little bit of gardening is necessary, but if it sees more traffic, this line will clean up nicely! It is mostly moderate crack climbing, but the crux pitch is very serious. It's burly and the gear is very thin at spots. Mandatory 5.10+ free climbing above very marginal gear. Would be happy to add more pics or info if requested. Happy Climbing!