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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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I think I'm with Tami on the catnip theory.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Top shelf stories here...thanks Hamish.
Racking up for a not often repeated wall as we speak, the kid and I are going on an adventure....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Y'all are just jealous of my brilliant, visionary climb. And I neither smoke nor inhale, catnip or anything else - Loki won't let me. But don't worry, the new bolts will allow all of you to climb the route, plus I'll make them really long, so they hold the Pillar on the wall. I saw some really good bolts near Porteau that look just the ticket - it shouldn't be too hard to get them out. And then you anti-tree yahoos will stop fantasizing about chopping down the lovely cedar near the bottom of the Pillar. If the Pillar is going to fall, it'll fall - a shrubbery that's well away from it won't make any difference.
Somewhere I have newspaper clippings from the first ascent of the Northwest Passage. Fred and friends did like new lines. There have long been rumours of a second ascent by climbers from Seattle, but no more. I wonder how much of the route is overwritten by later climbs?
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micro_marc
Trad climber
Squamish
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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When I was a kid I was scrambling around on a road cut by a train track, I was probably only ten or fifteen feet up the equivalent of a 5.2, but a train came rolling by and I vividly remember being terrified as the rock began to shake. I can only imagine how you felt experiencing that at the crux of 'Clean Crack' Hamish. The photo must be spectacular.
MH, put those long bolts in the pillar quickly, before an earthquake shakes it off... or someone laybacks it too hard.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Feb 25, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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A train rolled past me when I was seconding clean crack at the crux. I guess I froze in terror, because I sure wasn't moving ANYTHING until that train was gone. That said, I never felt the rock shake.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 25, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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Not directly a Squamish story, but I'm reminded of the time I was leading some hard route on Castle Rock in the mid-80s, and this train vrroooomed up on my right, de-centering my focus. Didn't know there was an easy route over there. Turned out to be a blond Canadian kid and not an easy route.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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Probably have to grid bolt it, and will need a compressor. But while I'm at it, might as well do Up From the Skies (curtains for The Curtains), the Sword, Ten Years After, and a few other expandos. Sure, they'll be less fun, but they'll be there for years to come, providing an extreme adventure. Book your ticket now.
(Hopefully I'll do a better job than Big Mike showed in the first photo on the thread.)
Of course, a 9.0 quake would shake them all off, bolts or not. They're all very temporary features, in geological terms. Look at the effort they put into propping up the old man of the mountains at Cannon (?), and then it just collapsed.
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perswig
climber
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Feb 25, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Put down the Scotch, Tami.
Plus, this thread's giving ST a bad name, what with the camaraderie, respect for history and stewardship between generations, the focus on climbing.
Jesus, you can't even have a bolt war properly.
Whatev's...
Dale
(Too gross, Jim. Yer banned.)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Tami, you're a rat abuser. A serial rat abuser at that. Admit it.
And dog pile on Dale! Let's tickle him.
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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Feb 26, 2012 - 09:55am PT
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Plus, this thread's giving ST a bad name, what with the camaraderie, respect for history and stewardship between generations, the focus on climbing.
Jesus, you can't even have a bolt war properly.
No kidding! It's why Squamish has a place in my heart climbing wise. Everyone is nice, reasonable and just loves to climb.
One of the better ST Threads! Keep it Up!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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Luke- You shouldn't be so hard on Kyle. You did have a bunch of slack out and he does weigh 135 pounds soaking wet, and got pulled up a significant amount by your fall.
Good luck on the Negro Lesbian!
Kyle also takes excellent pics. Here is one he got of me leading a sport route in the alpenglow at Spanky's wall.
MH- Give up the Cerro Torre joke. A better troll allready had his way with that one.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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Negro lesbian!?! Youre phuckin high, we"re going for a 7 member team ascent europa, the first recorded 7 person winter team ascent with salmon canon!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 26, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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OT - but Trevor Peterson was a local skier and he probably climbed too. This is pretty much the coolest thing I have ever seen - Stolen from facebook ....
Who is WS ?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 26, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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Matt M says, "Everyone is nice."
What did you expect?
We're Canajun, eh!
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MH2
climber
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Feb 26, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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How many Michael Ceras does the world need?
And would Trevor be this skiing Trevor, or a different one?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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TREVOR WOULD DO IT!
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bmacd
Boulder climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 26, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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Is it really any wonder a guy who rides his helicopters cowboy style winds up dead ?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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Avalanches have taken far too many.......
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 26, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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Hahhahahahaha bumpin for the T MAC! Nice guy, wrong Trevor.
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