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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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We told you so bump.
First Woot Boy came for our aid climbs with dumbed down bolt ladders, aggressive ledge cleaning, bypassed pitches on GSR, and a bunch of folks defended him. Now he adds an anchor to Book of Revelation and the pitchforks finally come out.
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T R
climber
Ca.
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There's a fat new bolt on pitch 8 Zodiac, just after 5.8 crack, as you're getting into the corner. I remember it as being kinda tricky years ago but now, with the bolt, it felt really easy. Why is it there? There's natural pro.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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WOWWWWW!!!!
A great friend just forwarded me this fascinating thread on ST. I don't get here much any more, mainly due to the overwhelming negatism. I've done the same thing with DentalTown.com...constantly blows my mind not only how reasonable minds can differ (I have no problem with that, just surprises me) but now insanely negative and unreasonable so many can be. It's perfectly fine to disagree with someone...healthy debate is extremely valuable. But to degrade others in the process...and to be blunt, to be dicks about it...is something else altogether.
The subject of this thread is Erik...first I've heard of him. Sounds like he has put a ton of work and money into making routes safer and better for the masses. His posts are also shockingly nice, respectful, reasonable...AND POSITIVE!...some of the very few that meet that description.
I thank you for your hard work Erik...and I'm VERY impressed with your demeanor! Don't let the bastards bring you down!
Btw, there are some posts that I also found respectful and enjoyed. Werner, Hudon, Pete, Greg, shipoopoi, and some others. Still...pretty sad that the majority cannot hold a polite discussion...
Nearly forgot to mention...I've been an avid rock climber for 36 years, and am a corporate sponsor of both The Access Fund and ASCA. Climbed today and added steel captive carabiners to some belays at Frenchman's Coulee...
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Did you add those steel captives to new bolts that you added to the middle of the pitch, Hummerchine?
If not, you're not up to Sloan's standard. Not even close.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Hummerchine,
Sloan, the laughing Budda, is crapping our lunch boxes and proclaims his sh#t is full of nutrients. In the school I attended they tested us on reading and comprehension. Did you really read this thread?
There are a good handful of climbers hard at work replacing bolts and certainly we need more. The guys I know photo document what they do with bolt replacement, have labeled ziplock bags of hardware from each route, and keep to the hole count. Their efforts are much appreciated by the community. We DO NOT need Sloan to replace another bolt anytime or anywhere. This is the sad result of his actions. He could make this right. Don't get your hopes up.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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OMG...Spiny Norman, the thread you linked to was awesome! I fully agree that adding bolts to Book of Revelation was a mistake...and I couldn't help but notice that Erik wasn't saying much about it after the overwhelming negative response! A negative response that was not only right on, but awfully polite and reasonable! Heck...a person I won't name, who has posted tons of stuff I thought was just ugly and awful...posted the most well reasoned and non-ugly thing out there...yet still correctly disagreeing with what Erik did. Will wonders never cease...right on y'all! And Erik...jeez man...my last post I was defending you, I still commend you with much of what you have done...
But you can't just throw bolts in anywhere you feel like when you KNOW it's going to piss people off! I'm pretty open minded these days, but convenience bolts to aid climb on a VERY accessible and popular free climb part way up a pitch in Yosemite Valley? I mean...name a single person other than you who agrees with that? At some point you have to notice that at least 99% of people disagree with what you have done...you should have been the one to pull those bolts.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Bill's handle is 'couchmaster'
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 11, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
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jonnyrig - is another victim of Sloan- looks like he is having nervous breakdown..
Oh he is just joking and I can not get it?
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Nov 12, 2015 - 01:59pm PT
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No soup for u
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Nov 12, 2015 - 02:05pm PT
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Alas, no, Erik.
But do you still have any Glamour Marmots in stock? I'm looking for the one dressed as Yul Brenner in "The King and I."
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Nov 12, 2015 - 02:06pm PT
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Yikes!
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Lurkingtard
climber
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Nov 12, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
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I'd like a WestWorld Yul marmot please.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 12, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
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I'm beginning to think the real Erik is more out of touch than Bad Acronyms version.
You victimized this route! Thanks?!
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Nov 12, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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Oh, and Erik? PM me. I filled in for you during your absence on the other thread and feel some compensation is in order.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Nov 12, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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please everyone, clog that inbox with useless crap
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mwatsonphoto
Trad climber
Culver City, CA
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Nov 12, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
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I'm collecting free climbing photos for my new Free Climbs Select book. Email me if ya got em!
How much are you paying per photo Erik? Or does free climbing photos really mean climbing photos, free?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 14, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
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Kudos to anyone posting on this thread in a non-vitriolic manner.
I can't speak for everything Erik has done because I don' know everything.
I would like to state some things worth considering.
When a first ascent party does a route and places 1/4 belay bolts (usually in the past) or 1/4 inchers on bolt ladders, they are in no danger at all. Danger and risk are none of the point in that. 20 years later those bolts do become dangerous and if someone is willing to spend the time and money to replace those bolts, I support them doing so with bolts that will last longer than 20 years since they are taking the trouble now and who knows who will be up for repeating the task later.
As for using beefier stuff on rivet ladders... same thing... the FA party general knew they would be safe and some would hold falls, since they need to be replaced, it's not the end of the world to make them beefy and get the maintenance over with. It definitely not the crux or problem area of any route (unless that route has been neglected for years) so why get panties in a bunch about it. You could disagree but are you out there spending the time and money fixing this stuff? The doers turn out to be the ones who get to decide.
Changing the spacing of bolt ladders during replacement is debatable but still, it's the easiest safest part of any climb so I'm not going to quibble about it. Go fix a nasty bolt ladder your own way if you're willing to serve. Erik is often climbing routes numerous times to do this work and it is indeed, like it or not, with the intention to serve coming generations of climbers.
In fact none of this stuff (except if there's stuff I don't know about) is making the routes much easier or safer than they were for the FA party except to adjust for the fact of being able to support more traffic during this new era of climbing where crowds have become the crux of some trade routes.
We aren't going to agree about the fine points of route maintenance. I'm glad there are people doing it. If you want it done differently, go fix some stuff. I don't think Erik is going to rework any route that's already been fixed with non-ancient gear.
Peace
Karl
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overwatch
climber
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Nov 17, 2015 - 04:59am PT
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She is awesome, but why do they avoid the stern shot?
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